High Mileage formula, what should I replace?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 666
Likes: 15
From: Freehold, NJ
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 434
Transmission: PG
Axle/Gears: 4.33
High Mileage formula, what should I replace?
I posted this also in the TPI forum to get other engine type tips. I am looking for mostly suspension type tips and opinions from this board. Here is copy of the other post:
I just bought a 1992 Formula 350 TPI and it has 197,000 miles on it. There is no service records and the person I bought it from did nothing but drive it (and change oil) for the last 55,000 miles he owned it.
I am putting together a plan of attack to overhaul the car and wanted some opinions to make sure I am not missing anything.
What should be done to a car with this mileage to make a reliable 13 sec daily drive out of her?
As I said, the car is all original. 350 TPI, rear disc 3.23 rear, original dual convertors.
Thanks in advance for all your help and tips.
I am most concerned about the steering and related components. Are there other areas I should be worried about on a car with this mileage?
Thanks!
I just bought a 1992 Formula 350 TPI and it has 197,000 miles on it. There is no service records and the person I bought it from did nothing but drive it (and change oil) for the last 55,000 miles he owned it.
I am putting together a plan of attack to overhaul the car and wanted some opinions to make sure I am not missing anything.
What should be done to a car with this mileage to make a reliable 13 sec daily drive out of her?
As I said, the car is all original. 350 TPI, rear disc 3.23 rear, original dual convertors.
Thanks in advance for all your help and tips.
I am most concerned about the steering and related components. Are there other areas I should be worried about on a car with this mileage?
Thanks!
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Denver
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5
I don't know if you've done a search (hint hint), but I would definately replace the centerlink for the steering, and replace the front springs and struts for the suspension. Then get a camshaft. I like the Comp cams xe268h-10 , but I haven't bought one yet. Now HOW ABOUT THAT SEARCH?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 666
Likes: 15
From: Freehold, NJ
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 434
Transmission: PG
Axle/Gears: 4.33
have done MANY MANY MANY searches. I have a laundry list of things to be done. I was hoping to get some advice from people that have tried to overhaul a car with this many miles. the centerlink is a good idea.
Do the upper strut plates go bad and if so how can you tell if they are good or not?
Where should I look for stress cracks in the steering box area?
Do the upper strut plates go bad and if so how can you tell if they are good or not?
Where should I look for stress cracks in the steering box area?
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Denver
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5
My car has about 194,000 miles. Changing my centerlink and idler arm made a huge difference in steering tightness. And when I changed the front struts I replaced the strut mounts too because they do wear out. Spohn sells them for about $200 which easily made them the most expensive replacement item. I probably could have stopped there, but I changed the front and rear springs too. The rear springs didn't make any noticable difference, but the new front springs are like a whole new world. I'm really glad I did that. I also changed the front wheel bearings. Then I switched to the 16" aluminum wheels and stickier tires. I've got some subframe connectors laying in the garage, and I'll finish with a wonder bar.
Then it's on to HEADERS!!!
Then it's on to HEADERS!!!
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: 5280FT.
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 700R4
My formula has about 240,000 miles on it and I have collected a bunch of front suspension parts. I just need some time now so I can put all of them on. Here's what I have so far, hope this helps.
Wonderbar from TDS(installed),poly bushings and endlinks for the front swaybar(installed),kyb struts,monroe strut mount bearings,moog springs,moog center link,idler arm ,ball joints, a-arm bushings,inner and outer tie rods,hotchkis tie rod sleeves.
I'm also planning on buying a corvette c4HD 13" brake kit from Ed Miller here on the board so I can upgrade the brakes while I have everything torn apart up front. Good luck with your car.
Wonderbar from TDS(installed),poly bushings and endlinks for the front swaybar(installed),kyb struts,monroe strut mount bearings,moog springs,moog center link,idler arm ,ball joints, a-arm bushings,inner and outer tie rods,hotchkis tie rod sleeves.
I'm also planning on buying a corvette c4HD 13" brake kit from Ed Miller here on the board so I can upgrade the brakes while I have everything torn apart up front. Good luck with your car.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
From: Clearfield,Utah
Car: 1987 IROC, 1989 IROC
Engine: built 305, stock 305 tpi
Transmission: Corvette 700r4, t-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 posi, 3.08 posi
I think milehighbird just about covered it but just to cover everything hear is a list:
new wheel bearings
ball joints
a arm bushings
inner and outer tie rod ends
center link
idler arm
struts
springs
swaybar mounts
swaybar end links
rear shocks
new tranny mount
torque arm mount
lca arm bushings (or upgrade)
I think that covers just about everything. anyone feel free to add anything.
new wheel bearings
ball joints
a arm bushings
inner and outer tie rod ends
center link
idler arm
struts
springs
swaybar mounts
swaybar end links
rear shocks
new tranny mount
torque arm mount
lca arm bushings (or upgrade)
I think that covers just about everything. anyone feel free to add anything.
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale
Car: 1991 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
To add to the post above me. Get a wonderbar since you'll be replacing the sway bar bushings anyway, might as well slide that in there since it's the same bolts you have to undo to get the sway bar bushings out. Plus it'll firm things up and help stop the car from getting that nasty frame rail crack.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: 5280FT.
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 700R4
I agree with the recomendation about a wonderbar. I had it listed in the post above. I purchased mine from TDS who is one of our sponsers here. Lon was great to deal with and I always like to give business to someone who supports us.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,298
Likes: 197
From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
Originally posted by Elthesh
To add to the post above me. Get a wonderbar since you'll be replacing the sway bar bushings anyway, might as well slide that in there since it's the same bolts you have to undo to get the sway bar bushings out. Plus it'll firm things up and help stop the car from getting that nasty frame rail crack.
To add to the post above me. Get a wonderbar since you'll be replacing the sway bar bushings anyway, might as well slide that in there since it's the same bolts you have to undo to get the sway bar bushings out. Plus it'll firm things up and help stop the car from getting that nasty frame rail crack.
As far as what to replace you might consider going to Summit or Jegs, or wherever you can get a urithane bushing kit, worth the esxra $$ IMHO. I think I only paid like $150 for my whole kit tho, it had almost everything for the car. I think it was missing some of the linkages for the sway bars, and the sway bar bushings.
All of the steering linkages is not a bad idea, and get an alignment. If you want it to drive a little more agressive/racecar feel where the steering is tighter the book Camaro & Firebird Performance handbook recommend adding 1° to the caster and 1/2° to the camber.
If you want to really do a NICE upgrade, go for some 12" Baer brakes, worth every penny and worth the saftey factor considering how crappy the stock are. But for $2500 for an entire kit its kind of expensive for most people. For a little less the 1LE conversion is also nice.
I will recommend one thing, if your wanting to go fast, do the ground up approach, Start with larger Brakes, and work your way forward before putting the power to the engine. Although going fast is a lot of fun, hitting a tree or getting killed is a real day wrecker because your car cannot handle the extra power.
John
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