Can you you replace an old ball joint while the A-arm is still installed on the car?

The ball joint on the driver's front of my car appears to be original (eek!). The castle nut has apparently been taken on and off enough time to compromise the thread on the bolt of the joint. We were going to take the A-arm out to bring it in to get a new ball joint installed buat are dealing with the spring not wanting to cooperate. I'm looking at renting a spring compressor now and was wondering if it would be better to try and get the ball joint off while the spring/A-arm was still installed.

Is that a good idea?

 

I found it just as easy to remove the a-arm then press the ball joint out. Of course you'll need to compress the spring as part of the a-arm removal. With the a-arm out it's also a great opportunity to replace or up grade the a-arm bushings. Dont forget to get the new upper spring rubber isolator bushings. I did and had to make a special trip to the GM parts counter.

Good luck>

 

~groan~

Thanks for the reply.

How bad would it be to just replace the A-arm bushings only on one side? I really don't want this project to spiral out of control to include removing the entire front end on both sides to replace the bushings. I'll do what I gotta do though.

Also... is that upper spring isolator bushing only available at a GM parts counter? Would that also be at and Auto Zone kinda place?

 

I hear you're pain. If you go as far as getting the a-arm off of the car to replace the ball joint, you might as well press out replace the a-arm bushings. Some better auto parts places (like NAPA) can press the bushings and ball joint out and replace them for you. That would be my suggestion. Then it just becomes a matter of bolting it all back in.

PS. I had to go to the GM dealer for the upper spring isolators. Period. None of the run of the mill parts stores carry that part in stock.

 

I dont see any reason why the a-arm needs to be removed to replace the balljoint. Normally I support the a-arm with a jackstand, remove the spindle, flip the castle nut on the balljoint and knock the old balljoint out with a big hammer.

Rent a balljoint press, A giant C-Clamp from the parts store,And press the new one in. Yes pressing it in off the car with an arbor or hydraulic press will make this part easier. But the balljoint press works fine too, just pay attention, if you get it started evenly all the way around you'll have a much easier time pressing the new balljoint in.

 

I re &re'd my ball joints with the a-arms attached to the car. No big deal, just needed a big snipe with the ratchet to work the ball joint press. There was no chance in me hammering it out.

 

If you are going to use a spring compressor, get a nice sturdy one...I found one at NAPA for around $90 that is much beefier than the one you can rent for free from Auto Zone. Those damn springs are scary as heck.

I also suggest getting a decent balljoint tool. I replaced the joints on a late 70's Lemans a couple yerars ago. Bought a very expensive, pro-grade OTC balljoint press. One joint went in easy, the other simply would not cooperate. Had to take the A-arm to a shop and have them use a giant press to get it to go in, and even they had to try a few times. With a dinky little Chinese tool, I am sure it would have been an even worse job.

BTW, I assume this is a lower balljoint you are replacing? I haven't looked at the joints on an F-body...are the upper ones riveted in and the lower ones pressed, like the older cars?

 

there is no upper.

 

We eneded up buying a spring compressor and removing the A-arm. Once it was off, we brought it to the local Pep boys and had them press out the old, press in the new. Getting the spring back in place was a pain. We had to cut off 3 inches of the compressor bolt in order to get it small enough to fit back together. Here's a shot of the bunged up ball joint before we got it out of there.

 

Well then...don't I feel silly?

But, now I know, so thanks.

 

If you do any future work on the other ball joint or any other front end work you need to hang the caliper by a wire or coat hanger. Letting it hang by the brake hose is very bad. It can cause a tear inside the hose and possibly cause a leak or worse, burst if you have to hit the brakes hard. Nice pic by the way. Badman

 

That was the old brake line... It was bad off with the rubber covering cracking away and breaking off. That was likely part of my problem. Anyway, it was replaced with a whole new rotor and Earl's brake lines supplied by the esteemed Mr. Miller (see attached).

I'm glad you like the pics. Enjoy another:

 

And now to actually add another.