How to support car to weld SFC's?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 20
From: PNW
Car: 91 Black Formula KR
Engine: 305 TPI R69/G92
Transmission: Astro A5-Pro 5.0-McCleod
Axle/Gears: US Gear 3.42 Eaton True Trac
How to support car to weld SFC's?
So, should the car be on it's wheels or is it possible to jack it up then weld them on? A combination of both? I want to be sure it's done right since it will become an welded integral part of the frame...
I have Spohn SFC's.
I just got my JetHot Hooker 2055's installed, so I was gonna make the bottom nice and get the SFC's and the cat back done at the same time...
Thanks,
Rafael.
I have Spohn SFC's.
I just got my JetHot Hooker 2055's installed, so I was gonna make the bottom nice and get the SFC's and the cat back done at the same time...
Thanks,
Rafael.
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Car needs to be sitting like it is in on the ground(suspension compressed). When mine were welded in we had all 4 tires on ramps.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,265
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Jack stands under the axle and under the front a-arms will simulate the car sitting on it's wheels except higher off the floor.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,893
Likes: 2,436
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
The suspension doesn't have to be "loaded", or anything of the kind.
The goal is to make sure the car is STRAIGHT. It's truly a beeotch to remove SFCs that are welded onto a bent car, and are now holding the car bent.
In fact, if your car is like most of these, it probably sags in the middle; and could use the car bent back straight before the SFCs are installed.
If you want a really premium job, take the car to a frame shop, and have them put the car on their jig and hold it STRAIGHT while welding them up.
Or do like I did. I had mine put on using a race car jig, when there wasn't even any suspension there; front or rear. No drive train either. Just a naked chassis.
The goal is to make sure the car is STRAIGHT. It's truly a beeotch to remove SFCs that are welded onto a bent car, and are now holding the car bent.
In fact, if your car is like most of these, it probably sags in the middle; and could use the car bent back straight before the SFCs are installed.
If you want a really premium job, take the car to a frame shop, and have them put the car on their jig and hold it STRAIGHT while welding them up.
Or do like I did. I had mine put on using a race car jig, when there wasn't even any suspension there; front or rear. No drive train either. Just a naked chassis.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: 39.84N 105.11W
Car: '89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: WAS 350 - now L92 (alum. 378/6.2L)
Transmission: WAS 700R4, now a built T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
...if your car is like most of these, it probably sags in the middle; and could use the car bent back straight before the SFCs are installed.
If you want a really premium job, take the car to a frame shop, and have them put the car on their jig and hold it STRAIGHT while welding them up.
Or do like I did. I had mine put on using a race car jig, when there wasn't even any suspension there; front or rear. No drive train either. Just a naked chassis.
If you want a really premium job, take the car to a frame shop, and have them put the car on their jig and hold it STRAIGHT while welding them up.
Or do like I did. I had mine put on using a race car jig, when there wasn't even any suspension there; front or rear. No drive train either. Just a naked chassis.
"Sofakingdom" definitely knows his shee-yit, but if you're like most of us "mere mortals",
then just supporting the front A-arms & the rear axle (as it is when sitting on the ground) should prove sufficient.Nothing wrong with going "all-out" though, if you can manage it... Either way, you'll be happy with the way the car feels afterwards.
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that's how i did mine a few years ago. 

