if anybody is running 15x10's in the back with 5.5 bs with a 275/60R15 tire is there any rubbing? do i have to mad something else or is it just mout the wheel with the tire and take off?? anybody have pics?

 

This has been covered more times than probably any other topic on this board.


PS Yes it fits, yes you "may" have to bring out the hammer for a little persuading.

 

i searched and the reason i asked for his thread was because there was mixed responses and i was wondering if anybody had pictures. The last thread i saw that said yes didnt have pictures. so

 

Yes they fit, and yes you will have to mod the wheel well in the front. I've done nothing but hammer work in the front lower wheel well area, then I had one set of big tires I had to cut the bump stop and mount out flush to the wheel well side itself due to it wanting to rub the sidewalls when turning at low psi in the tires. Nothing major by any means.

 

IHI, is that 15x10's with 28x11.50 hoosier qtp's??? like described in your sig?

 

yes

 

cool.. i'll be getting the same sometime this summer.. but prostars

 

this is a 15x10 with 5.5 nad a 325-50-15 m/t radial

 

how much wheel well "massaging" did you have to do to get those under there?? do they stick out any? shortened rear?

those are massive.. if those fit nicely, then some 28.00x14.50 QTP's should fit as well.. a full 12" of tread.. 13.1 section.. haha

 

for the street i run a 15-10 with a 295-50-15 at the track i run 28-14.50-15 on 15-12 prostars. had to get rid of the bump stops to. yes they stick out but i still need more tire with a 2.6 60ft.

 

pics of said 15x12 please. Also if you have a 2.6 60' and you're running 28x10.50 slicks or the 28x14.50 then you're doing something horribly wrong.

 

15x3.5 front with 26x4.5 Moroso DS2 tires, 15x10 5.5 BS rear with 28x9 slicks. The tires stick out maybe a 1/4 inch from the fenders at the widest point.

 

my pinion angle is off a little but i put down 716rwtq. should be better this year after i get the motor back in.

 

I'll tell ya this....it is'nt your oinion angle!!

I will give you a hint though....it's black, round, and has the word RADIAL in it

The answer will be a tire that has the words BIAS PLY, and 90% of your problems are solved!!

But that's just opinion

 

honestly, 2.6 60fts are HORRIBLE.. my s-10 with only intake, muffler and a 3.08 gear ran 2.4 60fts.. pretty much off idle launch.. with a stick

either your tranny is slipping like a ***** firetrucker or clutch or just get bias ply tires..

 

i have screwed tubed hoosier quick time pros at 7psi. i have a 2.6 60 and run a 12.75 at 125mph. I 73 chevy 12bolt rear comp ladder bars qa1 12way coil overs and comp 90-10 struts on the front. i just dont spend much time at the track i have more fun just driving it.

 

I can get 2.0 sixty foot off street tires just easing it out of the hole. Whatever you're doing while launching that vehicle obviously isn't working. 125mph is well into the 10s and you're running high 12s.

 

i leave the light on the trans brake at 3600rpm and 13psi of boost. the only time i have been to the track is on a street legal night were the track isnt that great. i plan on running better this year.

 

you're definately spinning the slicks then, I would leave off less boost and bring in the boost slower to get out of the hole quicker.

 

theres your problem.. 3600 on the transbrake @ 13psi.. try just leaving on converter/footbrake.. OR just bring it up to about 1400 or so, then stomp it..

 

7 psi in the rear slicks???? how light is your car (better be under 2800lbs with this low of pressure), and how ungodly bad are your red lights to warrant such a drastic drop in rear tire pressure to help to stay green????

Yes, you've got SERIOUS combination issues that you can hopefully get worked out this year....you have some pieces in place which are a good thing, just need to get it sorted out. At that low of tire pressure, I'm assuming a "standard" race weight of 3200lbs-but i'll bet it will be higher-and only running 7psi in the rear slicks, all your doing is wadding up the sidewalls and cupping the center section of tire/contact patch that you need to make full contact with the track!!!! put some air in those things for crying out loud!!! 1. your not letting the tire work anywhere near it's capacity since all your doing is trying to koo up one maybe 2" of sidewall when it squats down and hits the track and 2. your opening yourself up for a iffy ride on the big end carrying that much speed with minimal tire pressure, I'm sure you know exactly what I'm talking about with the sway on the top end once your out of the throttle.

put more air out back!!!!!!!!!!

Start with that before we get into your ladder bar settings, I'm wondering if your not hitting the tires to hard initally and then unloading the chasis within split seconds of the leave...without video it's hard to say, and even with video, that rear tire pressure is going to mask alot of problems since nothing is working the way it was designed.

 

the guy that helped me put my ladder bars in sounded like he knew what he was doing but has my pinion at +7 instead of -7 and had my shocks all the way up. but i didnt know that about the tire pressure. the last time i was their i got a 1.8 60ft 1/8 7.599@92mph and the1/4 12.07@99 I let out of it just after the 1/8th sick of spinning and hitting th rev limiter.

 

pinion should be -2 to -4 not +7

 

if your at +7 you need to twist'er down to -2 to -4, you choose, I've personally not seen much difference in my car at either setting.

Another thing I just read and had a DUH moment, you said your running on street nights....there are 2 nights you CANNOT expect to do much on the track. 1. During night races/Street Races....the tracks puts minimal effort into track prep since 9 out of 10 cars have street treaded tires and they ruin the stating line by dragging sand up into the staging area as well as digging the rubber up that is used for a traction bed. 2. T&T's, again, mostly inhabited by street tires and track wont put alot of effort into keeping the track hot nor spraying much compound onto the surface...if they do spray, it is usually a watered down version of the stick'em they use on race day just to make it look good for the crowd/racers at that point in time.

Now, I dont know how other tracks charge, the funny thing for me locally, it's CHEAPER to enter my car in a trophy class on a actual race day and be able to run on a race prepped track, vs. paying to T&T.....go figure....but most people dont understand that and dont realize the HUGE difference in the track prep on race day vs all other days.

 

Excuse the mess...

I will be running 15x10 but they are a 6in BS.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...r/DSC03644.JPG

Im in the middle of cutting the wheel wels up upto the stock frame rails. and putting the 9inch with coil overs and 4 link in the car.

 

i see the track prep stuff.. the first time i took my car out for test and tune, the track prep was crap.. i was running 17x8's with kuhmo 245/45-17's(rocks for tires) but still alright.. well on the regular street i could get a decent chirp in third gear.. on the track i couldnt lay down the hammer till 4th gear.. on all my runs, in the middle of third(not power shifting), i would break loose and spin all the way to the 4th shift..

oh ya, i only laid down 359rwtq and 316rwhp with that motor..

 

Tpi 383 glad to see others use there garage too mine looks very simular.

 

!!thumbsup!!

 

x

 

i beat the hell out the very far inner part of the wheel well above the rear lower control arm. i have a bolt-in 9" from moser. i want to cut that part out and get a 15x10 with 6.5 back spacing. im only going to section the front half of the wheel well. it will be like a 1/2 of a mini tubb and then im going to run a 28x10.5w

 

Why did ya edit and delete a picture???

 

So if everyone is running 5.5 backspacing, does that mean the Cragar 342s 15x10s that I want are going to stick out of the fenders since they are only 4in backspacing?

 

yes, with 4 inches of back spacing it will stick past the lip of the fenders

 

No worries. What about an 8" rim? My problem is that the wheels only come with a 4" backspacing.

 

8" rim would stick out as well since 4.5" is used on 8" rims

 

the pic in my sig is 16x8 with 4" backspacing on the fronts & 235/55-16 tires.. 15x8, 4.5bs & 275/50-15 DR's on the rear..

 

Do they stick out at all? On the rear would you have enough fender left to come out another 1/2 inch?

 

they would stick out.....that's it, no other answer unless it was a 7" rim with 4" backspacing