a quick four-link question
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,665
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From: Benzie, MI
Car: 91 rs
Engine: Blow through 383, 10 psi, xr288hr
Transmission: Manual th350 ATI 3000
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
a quick four-link question
I've been tossing around this idea because I want to use an 8.5" rear and would need to lose the torque arm. I dont want to backhalf the car.
I partly understand that you need to brace the floor. I have a cage in it and the floor is bare, and I'd do the work myself.
Question is would all this work and extra money for a 4-link negate the lower cost of an 8.5? I would roughly save $1000 with the 8.5.
I partly understand that you need to brace the floor. I have a cage in it and the floor is bare, and I'd do the work myself.
Question is would all this work and extra money for a 4-link negate the lower cost of an 8.5? I would roughly save $1000 with the 8.5.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,269
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: a quick four-link question
It's going to be very difficult to put a 4-link in the car without doing a back half. You can see the amount of work involved in doing a back half in the fabrication forum under my thread about a "back half project".
Doing a back half isn't an easy project to do and paying someone to do it would be around $10,000. There's no other way to install a 4-link without cutting out the rear floor and installing new frame rails for the 4-link chassis brackets to attach to.
You could install ladder bars much easier. I ran ladder bars for many years as an easy way to install a 9" in my car. Only minor fabrication work is required.
You're trying to save money. If you don't know what you're doing when changing the suspension, it may end up costing you more.
Doing a back half isn't an easy project to do and paying someone to do it would be around $10,000. There's no other way to install a 4-link without cutting out the rear floor and installing new frame rails for the 4-link chassis brackets to attach to.
You could install ladder bars much easier. I ran ladder bars for many years as an easy way to install a 9" in my car. Only minor fabrication work is required.
You're trying to save money. If you don't know what you're doing when changing the suspension, it may end up costing you more.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 438
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From: state of confusion
Car: '08 Mustang GT
Engine: 4.6L
Transmission: º º 0 . . . |-|-|
Axle/Gears: 8.8", 3.55
Re: a quick four-link question
Why not build a custom torque arm that mounts off a plate that's held by the 12 bolts? Same sort of axle side attachment as the GNX (and the Kirban aftermarket copy) use for their similar-looking traction arm. But at the front of your torque arm, keep the normal F-body arrangement.
Norm
Norm
Re: a quick four-link question
as stephen said, you basically have to back half the car. There is a lot of geometry in properly designing a 4-link. The race type set-ups don't work well on the street, as non-parrallel links will create roll oversteer when cornering. - ladder bars don't work well on the street, as they don't allow any rear body roll.
One way or the other, personally I would look into tieing the tq arm back to the 8.5
One way or the other, personally I would look into tieing the tq arm back to the 8.5
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 3
From: Benzie, MI
Car: 91 rs
Engine: Blow through 383, 10 psi, xr288hr
Transmission: Manual th350 ATI 3000
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
Re: a quick four-link question
A lot of ppl poop on the tq arm, but it seems to be a really good idea.
I would like to stick with it for all around functionality.
I cant find any pictures of the gnx one, I guess it was only factory in '87???
It might be possible to fab up my own...
I'm guessing around the housing, to a row of bolts on top, row on bottom?
I think it would take lots of little peices and corner bracing to make it stiff....
I would like to stick with it for all around functionality.
I cant find any pictures of the gnx one, I guess it was only factory in '87???
It might be possible to fab up my own...
I'm guessing around the housing, to a row of bolts on top, row on bottom?
I think it would take lots of little peices and corner bracing to make it stiff....
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