http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

i was lookin at these solid aluminum competition engineering bushings for my lakewood lca's and wondered if they would be safe for the street. would i put them in both ends of the control arm or leave one end poly?

thanks in advance

 

solid bushings are not a good idea, for any use of the car. For handling, they create bind when the body tries to roll, thus they cause the car to try to lift the inside rear tire off the ground. For drag race, solid bushings tend to hit the tires a bit to "hard" with anything other than full-on slicks, thus cause spin.

Stick w/ poly, if you want ideal handling with some street manners, get arms that are one end spherical, other end poly.

 

cool thanks for the info.

if i dont want to spend the cash on the rod ended arms, is there anything else that could help out? ive heard that poly in both ends of the lca cause binding as well. what do you think about this?

 

Poly will bind as well, but not nearly as badly as aluminum, of course. Unless you're building an all out handling car for autocross or something similar, poly is fine for street use.

 

Before I replace them with poly though, I'd do a set of rubber/rod end LCAs. That's what I have one mine now, works and rides great (IMO).

 

I see quit a few 4th gen guys are using these www.hotpart.com



I just have poly/rod combo, street driven on a daily basis. I really don't have any complaints.

 

I'm not sure bout those yet. IF the inner "ball" is a hard durometer and the outer bushings are a very soft durometer, then that idea would work. If the outer's aren't very soft, then that is in no way any different than a standard poly bushing. - No company lists this info, but most manufacturer's list/show all bushings as poly, thus all three pieces are probably the same spec, thus the result is the same as standard poly ends.

 

All three pieces are not the same. The outer cups are made using 65 shore stiffness and the inner ball is made using 90 shore stiffness materials. The inner ball is also not cast polyurethane like all the other polyurethane bushings but compression molded which makes it much denser and stronger.

 

That Hotpart is an altered rendition of a Johnny Joint. It still has bind because the outer so called softer sleeves are not going to crush as easily as expected to allow articulation. HOWEVER, I strongly feel that once the age a bit with regular daily use, those to outer softer retainer bushings will start to colapse and cause the outer control arm socket to move laterally about around the inner ball and socket (aka- side to side movement upon wear.)

A true Johnny Joint is far superior because it allow articulation retained inside a bushing sleeve with lateral retaining clips and washers. It will articulate 30* bind free when even new. THe hot part joint will have deflection tension just as a worn standard urethane bushing. I give a urethane bushing a 5 on a scale of 1-10, and I rate this Hot part bushing a 6 on a scale of 1-10.

Johnny joint is the way to go for noise reduction urethane articulation joints.
I give them a 10 one a 1-10 scale.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...nnyjoints.aspx

 

does anybody make a johnnyjoint that will fit in my lakewood control arm?