This thing is ridiculous lol
http://moserengineering.com/Pages/To...torquearm.html

 

Not really sure where the market is for that. You're buying a fabricated 9" diff along with a heavy duty propriety torque arm assembly to go with it. If you watch the video, they show a fourth gen doing a huge wheel stand then coming down hard causing a lot of damage.

A regular bolt in 9" diff that can use any other torque arm on the market would be a better choice. They're claiming this is for cars running under 10 seconds. Although there may be a few out there that run in classes that prevent them from tubbing cars, those that do tub the cars that are running under 10 seconds will be running a 4-link and won't need a torque arm suspension. Even if they don't tub the car, a normal bolt in 9" or 12 bolt with any other aftermarket torque arm will do the same thing for a lot less money.

 

they're claiming that M9 9" housing is 42 pounds lighter than their normal 9" housing

 

man, you actually see parts come off that 4th gen and watch the smoke/oil slick coming out behind it as he rolls on down track(shoulda pulled off to the side, now there's a full lane clean-up required)
That arm is kinda like the BMR extreme unit, only it's designed to tie directly to the 9" housing instead of the center chunk. - Also, that housing is moly, so it probably is lighter than their standard housing. Humm, unless they slotted the bolt holes I don't see any form of a slider at the front mount, thus the suspension will bind.... I built an arm very similiar to that for a blown chevy pick up, and I slotted the mount holes and welded small plates above the holes to allow me to put a bearing on either side, thus the bearing carried the load and kept the bolt from binding.

All in all, a bit overkill for most, but not a bad idea for factory suspension cars. There are plenty of guys in the factory suspension class running into the 7's. I just watched a 5.00 @ 152 in the 1/8 out of a 3250# 4th gen a few weeks ago.

 

I don't either unless there is a pivot link in the front that we can't see.

 

It has a rod end in the front so it won't bind, and there is a pivot point. I am ordering mine soon. Here is the original post from EPP before they raced at Memphis. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=790906

 

They use a slider link like the old Spohn Torque Arm

"The Moser M9 Torque Arm Assembly utilizes a unique sliding front mount that allows the torque arm to slide enabling the torque arm to move freely and not bind, which would impair the overall handling of the car. The front slider tube has a grease fitting which allows proper lubrication"

 

for $2,000 thats a steal, imo. your getting a fabbed 9" with a torque arm/mount and it weighs 40# less than a standard setup.

i am seriously looking into this as well now!

 

well all i can say is thats one hell of a torque arm, but uh why? do stock suspension classes allow a fabed 9"? if they went to all that trouble they should make the length adjustable, that would be a good buy, i bet clearance is tight with it too.

 

I would hardly call that package a steal. For $2000 you are not getting the center section. This is equivalent to the under $1000 package where you get the axles, housing, bearings, and retaining plates. That makes it $1000 extra to save the weight and to get their proprietary torque arm.

I can't even believe that they decided to use that video to market their product. That launch was a disaster and the driver was stupid for a number of reasons. I could see picking a video where the front wheels got more air time than a 747 jetliner, but not a video where the car was out of control and destroyed in the process.

 

well on the plus side , it looks like you could get the center section out without taking the arm off. I can get a better 60 ft,wheely and not screw as much up.(60 ft claim isnt based on anything real lol)

 

well since my housing was 1k, and my torque arm was $400 or so once it was all said and done, another 600 to save 42 pounds, might be worth it if I was buying it all over again, but since I already have my moser setup, won't be switching it anytime soon.

 

This 42 lb. less is total B.S. Now lets think where that 42 pounds less is. The axles are the same. The center section, or third member, is the same. The bearings are the same. And for the rear end housing, the housing ends are the same. The axle tubes are the same. So, the only difference is the torque arm, and the center of the housing. The torque arm has as much tubing and rod ends as a spohn torque arm. So no real weight savings on the torque arm. So the only place you will save weight is the torque arm mount and the center area of the rear end housing. Now lets look at the moser M9 housing. It is made out 1/8' thick steel with a 3/8' thick face plate welded to it. This is no major weight savings. So at best its 5 or so pounds lighter due to the lighter style of torque arm mounting to the housing.

Jerry

 

Its a nice setup and I saw that car at the lsx shootout and like the ad said its for 10 + second cars (race cars) not the street cars that see the track on the weekend and takes you to work everyday. Thats where the moly comes in play where every pound counts and and the stragth is needed. I'm sure it can work for everyday use but if you buy one make sure the axels are for the street not drag only. and i dont think this would work well with lowered cars.

 

fab9 housing is stronger than a regular 9in ford

 

the t/a mount on my 9" is 25-30# in itself. the M9 setup eliminates that. also, its a fabbed rear which is also lighter. and stronger. (and expensive)

 

I could see it weighing less, I own a moser 9 w/3.5 tubes and the fabbed T/A mount. I`d bet an iron head BBC in that car would have kept the nose down!

 

I think it looks like a great piece but I agree the arm should have been made adj.

 

Since the package is for race use, the axles and other pieces are probably not the same as the standard housing package. Race axles should not be used on the street for the same reasons a pro-gear should not be used. All in all, the price isn't bad at all if you're starting from scratch building a factory suspension car. - Like I/they said, it's probably not a good set-up for street use.

and yes, factory suspension classes will allow what ever rear/engine/trans that tickles your pickle. 3250# minimum weight, factory suspension lay-out at both ends, factory firewall, no more than standard(not W) 10.5 slick or any width drag radial, current registraion and insurance, + all safety equipment required by sanctioning body for speeds achieved.

 

looks adjustable to me....

 

only thing I see is the adjustable intersect points for the tranny. otherwise adjustability with a grinder and tig welder doesn't count.

 

There is a turnbuckle at the bottom there where it is usually on every other adjustable torque arm and they have an adjustable front mounting point for the arm.. To me that makes it adjustable.

 

didn't notice the turnbuckle I never scrolled down either way it doesn't matter to me I like it.

 

The rod end has nothing to do with fixing the bind issue. Others have confirmed that it has a slider though, so that means it won't bind.

For anyone who is looking into this, as I said, I wouldn't reccomend it for street use. Atleast not in the kit form. Race axles are different alloy than street, they're not made to take the bumps/bangs(think potholes an RR tracks) associated w/ street driving. Personally, I don't like moly, especially for street use. The weight savings isn't enough to counter the fatigue rate.

Another thing about this, looks like you'd have to run a fuel cell to have enough clearance. The factory tank would probably be to close for a fab housing and the top mount.

 

WHAT A RIP OFF!
you can get a fab9 housing with axles to bolt in for about a grand or so if you look, so you are paying NINE HUNDRED DOLLARS for a torque arm.
good marketing on their part.
moser will make a killing on this piece........

 

post up a link for a $1,000 fabbed 9" with axles.

 

looks like their pricing has changed a bit since the advertisment of this kit.
the kit(without torque arm) was 1100 something, now its labeled at 1545, no torque arm. so you price in a torque arm, its about right.
you can still get a fab 9 centersection(bolt in) for all other models between 625-750, according to the website.
with axles, you can still come in around a grand, just not a bolt in for an fbody.
my mistake.
prices rise. i couldnt tell you the last time i looked.

 

smoking what? A standard stamped housing kit w/ axles is a little over $1k for our cars. A fab housing would add several hundred more, and moly would be that much more yet. Plus, as I have stated several times, the axles in that kit are race axles, not the $200-$250 street axles.
----------
ha, I've got a pick of my old mans all steel(except the hood) 70 big block nova standing square on the rear bumper. well, it was aluminum heads.....

underpowered cars go up. It takes horsepower to go forward.

 

This thing looks fancy thats it. The BMR Extreme duty Torque Arm does the same job its cheaper and guys are running in the mid-7s with the BMR. But i give credit to the Fab housing it looks well built.

 

Found one allmost.

Moser Custom Alloy Axles-up to 35 spline $315
Bearing package Studs, & Retainer Plates $100
M9 BOLT-IN HOUSING F-Body NO torq arm $625

From Moser online today total $1,040


IROC/F-Body w/torque arm & crossmember brackets
(cannot be used w/oem or other aftermarket torq arm) $1545
add
Moser Custom Alloy Axles-up to 35 spline $315
Bearing package Studs, & Retainer Plates $100

From Moser online today total $1,950

$910 for 2 tabs welded to the housing and a T.A. thats $$$$$$

Jerry

 

i still think thats a good deal for a fabbed 9" ready to bolt in, with a torque arm that eliminates the "anvil" torque arm mount that has been used in the traditional setups. i am not kidding when i say that mine weighs 25# by itself. not sure if they still make them like mine, but its fabbed out of 1" steel. which also makes it nearly impossible to run a moser aluminum centersection.
i am seriously thinking about selling the rearend i have in the car right now and changing up to this one in the near future.

 

i have a moser aluminum center and that anvil torque arm which is still the same design from years ago. no complaints here.

 

those mounts must not be the same then.... if you fit a moser alum. center in there. i had to remove a pretty big chunk out of mine to clear the pumpkin. i have heard of people removing some of the pumpkin to make it clear, but i feel like the aluminum case needs all the help it can get so i didnt want to hack on it. honestly i dont think i could have removed enough from the case to make it fit anyway.

 

i believe the newer center sections have material removed in certain places to fit the mount, not that the torque arm piece has been changed.

 

ive had my moser 9" since 99. ive had several different gear setups in different center sections and never had to cut or modify anytyhing.
musta got a good one.

 

was any of those center sections made of aluminum?
my moser 9" has been in the car since 1990.

-edit- xpndbl3, i just looked at your pics in the "how to assemble a 9" thread... my t/a mount is for sure different. it only uses 2 of those bolt mounts on the rear instead of 3, and mine has alot more useless overkill steel in it. since its 17 years older than yours, im guessing they made them different back in the day.

 

I'm a bit lost. Maybe just the way you wrote it./? - Price a bolt-in moly fab9, race axles, stud/bearing kit, and a BMR extreme tq arm w/ x-member. - That would be close, but I don't know if the BMR stuff is available moly.

As I've said before, personally, I don't like moly. Even for a race only car. The slight weight loss isn't worth the fatigue, IMO.

Personally, I wouldn't want a 9". Unless you need the ability to change gearing often, a s60 is stronger, only weighs 15 lbs over a comparable 9"(unsprung weight in a drag car doesn't mean much) and takes less hp to pull. Plus, it's based off of a 12-bolt architecture, so it fits the car better. - The newest Chevy HiPo has a article talking with a guy from Strange, the section about the S60 is good info. Explains why Strange doesn't make a bolt-in 9" for a 4th gen and doesn't reccomend it for a 3rd gen.

 

I know a car that has run 7.54 (in the quarter) on a custom torque arm setup just like this. BTW it was also on a custom fabbed 9 inch. They work!

 

This sliding front link if a guy wanted to could he weld that in place or replace it fab it so its adjustable with a aura link and thread the inside so you could screw it in and out to your desired length. Then put a lock nut on it so it wont come lose.

 

The front link has to pivot or slide or it will bind when the rear end moves around.

 

3 year old post...

 

Ya but thats more of a drag race type feature correct? This would be going in a Road Race camaro that has a lot of power. So i wouldn't think you would want that sliding motion while turning hard or stomping on the brakes.

 

it HAS to be there, nature of the beast. With no sliding link, or pivot of some kind, the torque arm will bind and eventually something will fail.

 

the rear moves in an arc as it goes up and down, so how would you like the torque arm to stay the same length exactly Stroke?

 

So do all stock and after market torque arms slide in and out like that?

 

ive never had a camera placed under the car on a stock torque arm, but i bet you anything it slides back in forth in a rubber or poly mount.
factory mount isnt solid, nor is any aftermarket one.

 

yes, in one way or another.

except a decoupled torque arm.