Nothing especially constructive to say here i just wanted to say that installing new front springs is a major pain in the rear. At least for me it was.

Did my front end rebuild this weekend and for the most part everything was pretty straight forward, but wow putting new springs on can be a challenge. Getting them off wasn't so bad. Just removed the strut, spindle etc...and then used the floor jack to shove the A-Arm back far enough that the old spring popped or rather shot out.

Reinstalling now that's where it gets fun. First off I had the A-Arms off all the way to put in new ball joints and bushings. When it came time to reassemble I started by using a spring compressor to compress the new spring to the A-Arm. Then install the A-Arm back on the frame and jack the A-Arm with the spring up into position so I could get the spindle and strut back on. Nope. Not going to happen. Even with the spring compressed on the A-arm it would not clear and fit into the hole in the frame where it rests. If I compressed the spring to much the rod from the spring compressor would extend past the spring and hit the inside of the shock tower. Wasted an hour trying to make this work. Finally I resorted to trying the attach Spindle and Strut to the arm and then jacking the rear of the A-Arm into the chassis with the spring in place. Attached the spindle to arm. Attached the strut to the strut tower and then the spindle and once again I had half of the A-arm done. Next positioned the spring on the arm and in the shock tower and began to jack it up into place. Everything went well until 2 inches short of getting the bushings to line up with the chassis the car began to lift off of the jackstands. The compressed spring pressure was now lifting the car as i jacked the A-arm in place. After some cussing the solution occurred to me. More weight on the front of the car. I'm not suggesting this is safe so i don't recommend it but just place a body or two (people) on the front of the car and the added weight will bring the car back down. I had my wife and daughter climb up and sit (slowly) on the fan shroud and the car inched down until the holes all lined up. Quickly jammed the bolts in place to hold the A-arms in place and all was good. I did have to use a second bottle jack to help line up the inner/ rear mount but this method worked and I got the new springs on and the A-arms installed.

The whole job took me about 10 hours for all the suspension and steering R&R but at least two hours were lost trying to get the new springs on. Having done it once now and better knowing my way around a third gen's front end I think I could do the job in about 6-7 hours. BTW I took the old A-arms to a shop to have the old ball joints and bushing removed and replaced with new parts. Saved me more time and aggravation.

That's all. Just wanted to relay my experience from this weekend and wondered if anyone else has had as much fun.

 

Sounds exactly like how mine went. I ended up using a spring compressor as I jacked the A-arm. Still a pain in the butt.

 

Wow..... I leave my "a-arms" bolted up when installing springs. I insert the top of the spring into the k-member pocket, then shove the spring over the retainer lip on the control arm. THEN...*important step when dealing with coil springs*...I put a chain around it in case something ugly happens.

I use a jack to just swing the arm back up. There is a good amount of leverage to be had with the arm if you jack up at the ball joint. Ive done it this way, oh...probably 20 times now. With both stock springs and eibach brand springs.

I never liked the idea of jacking the control arm up, with the spring sitting on it, and having to line the bushings up and all that. If you want to leave the arm connected though, you'll need the front of the car up pretty high.

For removal...I have the front end high, and start letting the control arm swivel down...with a chain wrapped around the spring, it will let the arm get to where its almost pointed straight down, then it'll just give alittle pop, and out it comes.

J.

 

I removed the old springs the exact same way you described but I could not get the new springs to pass over the retainer lip on the control arm after inserting the top into the k member. This was my plan A for installing new springs. That's why I turned to using the compressor. I had to remove the control arms to put in the new bushings. The good news is I don't anticipate ever having to R&R the control arms or springs again.

 

I usually have to use a big screw driver or a pry bar to pop the spring over the lip. Its pretty close to the end of the springs travel though, so the energy potential is alittle lower than when its being compressed a good bit. So I feel safe doing it...with it chained to the control arm that is.

I just despise removing the control arm bolts for some reason. hahaha. I didnt even remove them when I dropped my motor from the 87 and put it in the 86 this time. haha. Just left em on there.

I dont enjoy doing the spring thing though... I now have to install eibachs in the 86, and put stockers in the 87 to make it a roller, and hopefully thats the last time I have to R&R them for a while too.

Atleast you got it back together!

J.

 

agree with above.. had springs in and out at least four times.. always done with the a-arm bolted up.. put it in the top and get a BF prybar to get it in the bottom, one pop it is all done.

 

Slip a 6"-8" piece of 3/4" pipe over the threaded rod on the spring compressor as a spacer - this prevents the rod from hitting the top of the tower. Works like a champ & eliminates cursing & swearing!
Corky

 

If and that's a big if, I ever do springs on a third gen again I will try using a BF prybar and pop the spring onto the control arm. I'm only going to give it one shot though and then go back to the way I've managed to make work.

Thanks for the tip with the compressor. Not sure I'll waste my time with one again.

 

I should clarify that it has always taken me a few attempts to pop the spring in with a prybar.. it can be a pain but has proven better than the alternatives for me.

 

It can't be a whole lot worse than trying to align the control arm bushings with the chassis while adding and removing people on the front of the car to raise and lower it in an attempt to line things up.

 

PITA all i can say. Took me 2 days to replace my front end, and im still trying to level the center link at the pitman, idler arms.

Springs were the biggest pain in the ***, even with a compressor, that compressor likes to twist when being compressed. Total time spent on springs probably like 6 hours

 

It is a PITA, but once you've done it a few times, it gets easier. I can take apart my whole front end (not including the steering linkages) in about 45 minute to an hour now.

 

Me too, along with the following compressor and 5 1/2" pipe nipple:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...s-dsc00195.jpg

JamesC

 

Thanks for sharing my pain. At least you didn't have to use your wife and daughter as tools sitting in the engine compartment to the amusement of your neighbors.

Your hired.

If there is a next time I will try this and report back. just don't hold your breath.

 

I used the same tool James did but the "?: hooks on each end that attach to the spring would start sliding down the spring while compressing, i had to use 8 guage wire to hold the "?" hooks to keep it from unwinding.

Is the spring good as long as its in there in the carriers ? I read something about one of the drain holes has to be covered.

 

IIRC, one but not both can be covered. I try to center mine between.

JamesC

 

if the not set right what kinda symptoms would you expect?

 

The car wouldn't set at the correct ride height and/or might be uneven from side to side.

JamesC

 

i also had that same issuse your first post was talking about, i feared and dreaded EVER putting springs in again! when lowering the car however it is easier to put springs back in, i use standard racecar springs that are shorter and are a straight spring rate. seince i do stuff to camaros people dont usually do ive had my front suspension off several times. quickest way ive found to take the springs out of an f body is this (it is dangerous i do not condone this behavior as it is not wise, just saves alota time) also take note i figured this out in a junkyard on a day i had to pull 4 control arms ouf ot camaros sitting on the ground so collateral damage wasnt a big deal.

first jack the car up, then put it on stands, place a jack underneath the control arm in a section thats NOT going to slip off, while providing adequate leverage (if you dont know where, please dont do this)

second, remove the nut from the balljoint, it has a cotter pin. you can either have the jack about 1/4 inch below the control arm and whack the spindle with a hammer until the balljoint pops out or just use a balljoint fork.

third, you just slowly lower the control arm, if you are afraid to do this, stand ontop the stut tower while lowering by the handle. the arms come to a rest near verticle and you use a jack handle to push the control arm further back while wearing a helmet and covering your privates. if the control arm is all the way down the spring will just drop out, it will make a scary sound but in all 8 times i hada do it, it hasnt jumped out just simply fell.

to reinstal loosen the 18mm bolts on the control arms (to keep them from binding) and put a shorter spring in and jack the control arm up till it fits in the balljoint hole and there you go!

 

A length of chain wrapped around the spring and through the a-arm will provide of modicum of safety.

JamesC