I went with polyurethane bushings in my a-arms for now since my OEM rubber bushings where shoot. I plan on going with some DEL-A-LUM bushings sometime soon, but for now to keep the a- arms from twisting with the "no deflection" polyurethane bushings i reinforced them.









Now a few of my buddies want some, lucky for them i made a templet and have access to a water jet so i consider these a rough draft so far

 

just out of curiosity. why didn't you just box the a-arms?

 

Added wight.
Endlink interference.
Cant use a spring compressor.
Chance wrapping the arms when welding.
Boxing just doesn't look that cool when im under there swapping or changing things

 

nice job looks good. notice any difference yet?

 

About how much weight does it add? I may want to strengthen up mine myself. About 3/16" steel?

 

thanks! i havent took it out yet to see
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id say under a pound for each side, i used 14ga or 12ga all have to look though

 

Whoa i just read that way to thic! i just looked to see what it was i used it was 12ga

 

Everything I've read has said the the factory A-arms were perfectly strong, but obviously they're heavy, which is why serious racers upgrade to tubular.

Weight, not strength.

.....regardless, they look nice.

 

I would also like to know if it feels any stiffer. I autocross so I put the car under a lot of strain and I figured doing something like that is a lot more cost efficient than buying tubular A-arms. Any chance you would be willing to share the template?

Mike

 

They are strong but when you add a bushing that has no deflation then somethings going to twist or flex and most likely its going to be the factory a-arm. i really don't understand why people think that the factory a-arms are heavy, they are not there are no real wight savings to be had when switching to tubular

 

sure just shoot me a PM with your email, i have to find a scanner....

 

got measurements you can post? Or just post the templates. I'm sure many many many many others will want to see it

 

I don't really see any benefit. I have never seen an a-arm "break". I would have just gone with tubulars, less weight and stronger then stock.

 

Doubtful.

 

My friend down the street said usually it is the area around the ball joint where you really want to reinforce. This is the area where they fail, usually from worn out balljoints, then the holes deform then they break. I have also read reinforcing is the way to go. Honestly I dont neseccarily trust the design of the aftermarket arms out there.

 

i would love the templates as well. i was thinking of doing that as well. i dont like the tubulars iheard stock were fine but ive made my own subframes, LCA's and panhard rod... and ive had good luck so far and its a A$$ load cheaper! i posted my demensions on the fabrication section awhile back.

 

You guys can make your own temples very easy by just cutting cardbard into place. Would literally take you 10 mins at most.Reinforce the ears so that the bushings do not collapse the walls when pressed out and in.Reinforce the underneath of the arm between the spring pockket and the balljoint where the most force leverage take place to help prevent twisting flex.I did mine just like this about 3 years ago. You'll find a picture of them on this cardomain page I did a few years back.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/518752/6

 

ive seen ppl box the entire arm. looks good i kno i could make my own template but i want to kno where to put it to make it stronger wit less material so i dont add too much weight/warp it.

vetruck... sick brakes lol makes my SSBC Force 10 calipers/braided lines, slotted and cross drilled rotors look like a piglet. how much it cost u?

 

I built the entire setup custom for about $2500 roughly if I recall correctly. That included custom CMC machined Aluminum roadrace hubs that are rated for a 4000lb g-body car. They are Wilwood radial mounted 6 piston calipers and 13" rotors up front. It all fits under the factory 16" IROC wheels. Very light weight also.As for bracing the A-arms, so far the plating I did hasn't hurt things and I have put this car though abuse for about 3 years now with the a-arms plated. No cracked welds, no cracked arms, everything solid. Brakes as well, I safety wired everything and the car was used daily. It has held up excelent.I see cornering loads greater than most street cars and better than alot of race cars. I have posted many times this car pulls 1.07g's on street tires (skid pad results- not gtech handheald scanner results that can spike flase readings) and has done a 60-0 in 102ft. Is this a result of the a-arms welded- its the whole package. I do not have one single weak link on this car. It is all the work combined that yeilds the results. I have 4 lateral chassis braces up front alone.

 

nice! can u post pics of the lateral chassis braces in the front? i have the wonderbar and im making a strut tower brace from 1.34x.134 mild steel roll bar tubing. i also have custom thru floor subframes everythings in my sig. where did u put the lateral chassis braces? pics would be greatly appreciated

 

Why do you say that?

 

idk either tho... i wouldnt get tubular front Aarms either tho... its the same idea as the stock crossmember... the tubular K members are said to be not as strong as stock... due to the fact that they dont flex like a stocker. which is means they tend to fail on a daily driver due to car flexing, potholes, etc.... now sumppl will say they have never seen one fail and that they are fine for the street and thats really up to u. i wouldnt put a tubular kmember on my car since it will be a daily driver same with the lower control arms.
they are lighter and more rigid, kmemebers/arms which would be good for track use and more more clearance wit the kemeber for headers etc

i just wouldnt do it for my car. as blyth18md said "doubtful" i would think the stockers where stronger as well since they will flex under load where as the tubular would just break. could be wat he meant

 

Fueled Soul, off topic, what are you using for tie rods and sleeves?

 

Edelbrock adjustable sleeves,
inner and outer summit tie rods