im shure my fuel pump died in my 92 rs its the 3.1 and i was woundering how the heck does that tank come out!! the exaghst it in the way, i pulled the hangers off and it droped some and alo there is a brace that runs from the passanger side of the car to the driver side frame rail. do i need to just pull that off all the way?? and i did get the heat sheild off already. any tips suggestions on how to make the job easyer? i really need the car running by tomarow afternoon if possible

 

you need to take the exhaust out, the brace out, the panhard bar out, disconnect the torque arm, remove the sway bar, disconnect the bottom of the shocks, and drop the rear axle. if you can get the car up high enough, you don't have to disconnect the LCA's.

 

You have to remove the rear end.

 

seriousely?? or are you just giving me a hard time???

 

you DO NOT have to remove the rear, however you need to raise the back of the car as high as you can get it, i mean as high as you can get it. Then drop the rear as low as you can get it, let it sit on the ground if you can, you need as much room as you can get to be able to wrestle the tank out.

-You have to remove both rear wheels
-panhard bar and upper panhard brace
-disconnect the shocks from the axle, or in car which ever is easier for you
-remove the screw that holds the brake line to the car right where the flex line attaches, you need the extra slack to get the rear to drop.
-remove the exhaust
-remove the heat shields
-remove the gas filler door and he plastic liner
-disconnect the fuel line, return line and charcoal canister line
-disconnect the wiring connector on the underside of the car, at the top of the tunnel, it may have a plastic"pin" through it to lock it together.
-then the 2, 15mm? head bolts, and the straps will swing down and now its time to fight the fillerneck out. Its a lot easier with and empty tank.

I think thats it, its a lot of work, and an extra set of hands will really come in handy. Air tools will help a lot since old bolts tend to be tough.

 

Damn near. Once you have it ready to come out about the only thing left attached to the rear will be the parking brake cables.

 

I just removed my gas tank a few weeks ago, and you can easily have it done by tomorrow afternoon. To take mine out and put it back in only took a few hours, but you cant change it without removing everything from the rear axle except the LCA's and the parking brake cable.

 

thats rediculouse!!!! the more i hear i think i should just do a door in the trunk floor!

 

Its not as bad as it sounds, me and my dad did it in about 5 or six hours from jacking the car up, totally removing the rear end, and swapping the tank. Took a little longer to put in the new rear end after that but its seriously not as bad as it sounds. Plus its pretty damn fun IMO to take apart pretty much everything that makes your car move.

 

And when your done with all the stuff everyone else said you better hope it wasn't just the fuel pump relay.

 

First make damn sure it really is a fuel pump issue.

It's really not that bad. Taking the rear end out of these cars is cake. The hardest part is extracting the tank.

People say you don't have to take the rear end out, but trust me DO IT. The job is so much easier if you just yank the rear and drag it off to the side and out of the way. Otherwise you will be smacking the tank on the pumpkin while you try and fight to get the filler neck out of it's little nook, and it will just repeatedly get in the way.

Make life easier and just chop off your exhaust with a sawzall or whatever. Then you can go find a muffler shop that can weld it back in for you pretty cheap when you're done.

Oh yeah, and make sure you siphon all the gas out that you can.

And yes, anybody who considers himself to be a "car guy" should feel blessed with such an excuse to tear his **** apart in the driveway and strew car parts and grease everywhere.

 

But you can't take the fuel pump out, with the tank still in the car, despite doing the gas pump door mod.....the first time.

With the way the LONG hard lines are done, to cut them you hafta pull the tank. But if you cut the lines & do the gas pump door mod, that'll be the last time you hafta pull the tank, to get to the pump.

 

well im usually all for tearing the hold car apart but i was hoping to have it runnin asap for a concert and i have no other wheels to go pick up the gurl and it sucks but i did start on the fuel pump door a few hours ago i got the hole cut and the lines trimed nicely. so now i need some hose, clamps and new pump so thats the job for the morning when i got some light.

 

Make sure you get fuel injection hoses and clamps for the job. I've got some picks of the access panel I did on mine on a thread I started. Later.

 

Yea, i looked at your thread and i am getting the right hoses and clamps. i am just kinda nervouse now i just cut a hole in the floor and choped the hard lines it just feels wrong lol. ill post pics here in a few hours

Thanks for the help guys!!!!

 

I'm strongly against chopping up the floor and cutting the hard lines. Sure, there are people on here that do it right, but those lines are hard for a reason. Now you've got a hole in the floor that you need to spend the proper time and money developing a cover with the appropriate weatherstripping to seal it back up (it must be air/water-tight). Not to mention now you have 4 hard lines, FUEL lines, one of which contains very high pressure (over 40PSI for your Multi-port injection 3.1) sitting under the rear of your car right above the exhaust that are cut and have rubber hose connecting them with what, hose clamps basically? Sure, you can use high pressure rated fuel injection hose and high pressure rated fuel injection clamps but I wouldn't feel comfortable driving around with this setup or letting anybody I know/love drive around with it no matter how "right" I did it.

Dropping the tank can be started after breakfast and have you back on the road in time for dinner, hard lines and unibody intact.

 

Darkshot, it was his idea to cut an access panel not anybodies suggestion, with that said since there is a hole now lets just help him do it right. There are two strong opinions on this issue, I myself dropped the tank once and then cut the hole, and I'm confident that it's done right and I'm glad I did in case there's any future fuel pump problems. Later.

 

ive dropped 2 tanks in the past couple months, a buddies, and my own, it is really not the huge deal that it sounds like, provided you have the proper tools.

I took my tank out in less than an hour, by myself, without rushing too much. My suspension, exhaust, ect is all pretty new, so i had to issues with broken, stuck bolts.

The other tank was in a 91 TA, all original, and WITHOUT ANY proper tools , still had the tank out, swapped the pump and sock, and back in, in a few hours.

If you have some mechanical ability, and access to air tools, floor jack, good jackstands, handtools, ect, and a buddy, its totally do-able in a weekend.

But like said above, MAKE DAMN SURE that the issue is with the pump and not the relay or other things. After i spent all that time on the 91, it still didnt start, and turned out to be a whole shatload of issues. I should have known better and checked the pump before i dove into the project, but i took the owners word for it never checked.

The fuel lines have a threaded connection at the front of the car, you can take that apart, put it in a bucket and turn the key on, the pump should prime, then stop. If you crank the car, the pump should keep going as long as you keep cranking.


Now, while fords88bird, did a good job on his access dor project, i still feel that it is the wrong way to do this job. Unless the car is a racecar and still using an intank pump, and iot requires repeated access. Other than that, how often do you plan on changing the pump? You shouldn't ever have to, at least not for another 20 years.

 

well i hooked up 12 volts to the pump earlyer to see if it will kick on and nuthing for like maybe one second i could hear it click like it wanted to run but it still wont actually turn on so im shure the pump is dead