>Can someone who has Ground Control Weight jacks mounted please report on them? Good? Bad? Really good way to adjust ride height? No theories! I need a real user's experiences!

 

Search for a post by Crazy Hawaiian. It's pretty detailed.
For what it's worth, I plan to get a set when I get the money. Just make sure to research what spring rates/lengths you want.

 

Ive got them & love them to death.Ride quality is excellent.Just barley stiffer than stock rate(red springs).Adjustment is easy & no hassle if you dont mind lying on your back to adjust them.Which is'nt often anyway.Installation is easy as pie, especially on the rear.Being able to set the ride height depending on your mood/need is a plus as well.Worth the money in my humble opnion.

 

By "reds" I assume you mean the 250s? Don't have a stamped metal ring on one, to tell you what the rate is?

I have a set of those to go on & a set of blue 170s, so I wasn't sure which set to put on first....ie: if the 250s would ride too harsh.

 

I forget what the # is on the springs, but they are eibach units.The # is printed in white, no stamped ring.250 sounds farmiliar though.I think thats what the guy at GC called them too.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ght-jacks.html

Dewey316 is another member with them. If I remember right, the GC units use a proprietary rear spring setup that's a pigtailed spring and not as common? There was another company that offered just the rear weight jack with a standard 5" spring which meant cheaper springs which means easier to find out which ones you like the best.

I'd like to be running weight jacks...

 

After driving with my Pro-kits and hearing what others had to say about the GC units, I wish I would have spent the extra cash to go Ground Control. To me, the Pro-kits aren't stiff enough in the front.

 

Thanks for the link, iansane.....any pictures of the front strut set-up?

 

I am happy with my weight jacks. I had 175 rear springs or'siginally and went to a set of 150's (with 19mm rear bar) for better autocross handling. You can buy the pigtail springs from many places I bought mine through Strano Parts. My front springs are 800# with a 36mm sway bar.

 

im runnning GC 750# front 150# rear stock RS bars. you tell GC what rate and spring height you want. they are easy to adjust, my only complaint is that my rear spring is too tall. i actually pulled out the adjuster and im running just the spring as if it was stock.

handles great with my koni yellows. it really shows where the rest of the car needs work.

 

Just found this thread and figured I'd give it a bump with some info.

Jut got off the phone it GC and they told me to go with
800# Front and 175# rears for my vert.

I have bilstein shocks/struts.

Debating on Weight Jacks or A Pro Kit.

BTW, CG doent sell Front and Rear separate anymore. Its a Kit F&R and Springs for $459

 

That blows! I already have a rear set & am NOT going to buy a full kit, end up with a spare rear set, just to get the fronts!

 

You could always ask. My 1st question Im inquiring about the 3rdGen Front weight jack that how $259 on your site.

He said ' Im not aware we sell Front and rear seperate we have a KIT for $459

So ya never know you can always try. since I need both I didnt ask if they would seperate.

 

i actually just emailed them yesterday about getting just the fronts and they said no.

Anybody have a pic of the front setup? Maybe we can make our own.

 

ask and you shale receive
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/misc/weightjacks/
More specific i this picture.



I cant see it being hard to make at all. Im still thinking about it but there are options like this also. I saved this info long ago so Im not sure if the link ork.
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp28.htm

This is right off my invoice
4 - SCPSB57 Spring plate 5.5" steel
2 - SCPSB18S Weight jack bolt 8" steel (for the rear)
2 - SCPSB16S Weight jack bolt 6" steel (for the front)
4 - 500TC815 Wedge Bolt, thrust bearing
8 - 500TWA815 thrust bearing washer
4 - SCPSB20 Nut wedge bolt
4 - SBB (I forgot to order this)
Total cost 147.48 + 10.23 shipping + the bolts that I forgot

you can see these parts at http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp28.htm

What is still missing is a bolt that would go through the spring plate, washers, and bearing, and then screw into the bottom of the bolt.

Remember that I was planning to just weld the Nut directly to the k-member and rear spring pocket - Definitly not drop in. I have a spare k-member sitting in my driveway (there are other things planned for it however). http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...62_27_full.jpg

To make a drop in unit like the GC, you will have to drill a large hole ~1.25" into the spring pocket and then weld the weld nut to it (rather than the k-member/rear spring pocket). The bearing and bolt will need to be transfered to another component that need to be fabricated (see the bottom part of the GC unit in your first post). This new component will need roughly a 5" round plate and a about a 4-4.5" tube about 1.5" long. This will be the component that fits in the stock spring perch. Hopefully you understand what I am trying to describe.

The 4-4.5" tube will be easy to get since it is a standard size. The round plate will need to be laser cut somewhere.

 

i just ordered mine last week, there still waiting for the 225 rear springs to come in.

 

what # fronts did you go with? More info on your car setup/ combo? waybar etc.
Did they recommend 225 rears?

 

1100 front, basically double the stock irock rates of 550/107 , i'm running stock iroc 36/24 mm bars. from what i've read to much rear spring with a smaller sway bar wont allow as much weight to trasnfer to the rear, while cornering, and wont hold the road as well. i'm building the car for high speed corners. i plan on putting the hotchkis 36mm if needed, or stepping down the rear bar to 23/22 mm if needed, but i think the balance shold be pretty close with theese spring rates and 36/24 mm sway bars all other mods are in signature...i just updated it.
i'm still waiting on my new AGR steering box, and i plan on getting some 17X9.5 rims with 275 40 tires or 18X9.5 with 265/40 front 275/40 rear tires, i need more money.........sigh

 

track only car ith those spring rates up front? I have 36/24mm just tring to figure out what springs to get. Right now like I mentioned above Prob. 800/200 or 800/175

time to turn sigs back on so I can see your other mods.

 

it's my daily driver.... i like the harsh ride. try to keep the ration of front to rear spring rates at 4.5-5 to 1, stock ration is like 5 to 1, V-8, if you want to run 200 in the rear you'll need around 950 or more or in the front or go with a 21mm sway bar. 800/175 would probaly need less rear sway bar, but would be a good starting point. i wasn't happy with the pro kit when i got it,714/175 spring rates, it oversteered. i ended up cutting the front springs about 1 coil, to stiffen it up and put a rear set of spring isolaters up front to raise it up a little and now the car is more neutral. the rates are probaly closer to 800/130-175 progressive rate, since i clipped the front springs and now it handles ok, still too much roll for me

 

good info. that why Im reading what others ue/like.
GC recomended the 800/200 and to keep my 36mm front and drop to around a 21 rear.

maybe Ill start out ith the 800/175 prings are cheap enough I can get diff. ones later

 

Is this cheaper or better then a good set of adjustable coil overs???

 

Yes, cheaper then coil overs for all 4 corners.

eight Jack with springs cost $459 from ground control. Or if you wanted to piece it together yourself would be cheaper. Springs are $50-60 bucks each in a ton of different #'s to choose from.

Is it Better then coil overs? I'd say its a personal preference. Id go coil overs on a dedicated drag car. and gc weigh jacks on something auto-xed or extream twisties treet driven.

 

coil-overs work pretty well on the street or for a drag car. The largest issue is that they severely limit front tire size. I have front and rear coil-overs, and Im looking to replace the front setup with weight jacks once the time allows.