Right now I have an '86 Firebird with moslty unknown suspension components, probably stock stock. What I do know is that I swapped out the rear end for an LS1 unit. Everything else is probably junk. It rides hella rough on the busted roads around here.

I'm in the process of swapping in a big pontiac motor and a super T-10, and I want to improve the ride quality, handling, traction, etc. Will I benefit from a tubular k-member? What about an adjustable torque arm? I have 17" SLP aluminum wheels and I'd like to lower the car as much as possible without destroying ride quality. I'm rather clueless when it comes to modifying a suspension and could really use some help.

Thanks
Rex

 

First, install subframe connectors.

Second, new springs, i would suggest the eibach prokit, is a mild drop, but it will keep you from bottom out on everything.

Next shocks and struts, spend as much as you can afford here, the cheapest that you find for 50 bux or less are crap, if you can afford koni yellows, buy them.

K member and a-arms, the only advantage is weight savings and exhaust clearance, nothing else.

A good crossmember mounted torque arm will do you well, they can be had from UMI performance, Spohn, or BMR, preference is up to you, i personally like UMI. They havea ground purchase starting in the GP section soon, a good way to save a few bux.

New rear control arms will be a good idea, i would recommend a set with a poly bushing on one end and a rod end on the other to help eliminate some bind.

A adjustable panhard bar will help you re-center the rear under the car after you lower it.

After that, you can see what sway bars you have on the car and maybe pick up some larger ones to help body roll.

thats a good start, some other things to look into is a steering brace "wonderbar" to strengthen the steering box area, and a Strut tower brace to as well to tie the strut towers togoether.

 

Don't forget lower control relocation brackets.

 

Can someone give me a picture of subframe connectors installed? This seems like a fairly basic piece of equipment with a simple job. Is there any reason not to make my own? I have the skills and equipment.

It looks like Koni Yellows will run $670 + shipping, the Eibach Pro-kit is $243 + shipping, and the a Spohn adjustable panhard bar is $130 + shipping. Can you give me an example of the control arms you're talking about? Are the relocation brackets necessary? What kind of difference will I see with all of these items?

I had planned for a steering brace and strut tower brace already, but I'm nut sure which strut tower braces will fit after my engine swap. I have the adjustable torque arm and cross member figured into my transmission budget. If a tubular k-member is only good for a bit of weight savings and exhaust clearance then its out. Hopefully I can find a way to fit headers without it.

Thanks for the help
Rex

 

Go to the manufacturer's site to see installed pics. They all have them.
You can get the ProKit for less, but probably not the KONIs. Go to Spohn's, UMI's, or Hotpart (I reccomend their arms) and look under lower control arms to see them. Yes, if you lower the car, the relocation brackets are fairly neccessary.

The shocks are what control the suspension. That's why they are so important. The springs control the ride height and play a large part in the ride and handling characteristics of the car. The control arms (stock) are flimsy and flex under stress. Aftermarket ones do not. PHB is the same idea. The SFCs reinforce the unibody, allowing the car's suspension to work more as it should.