Connan1

So, I'm shooting grease into the lower ball joint, and after I removed the grease gun from the grease fitting, grease starts coming out of the grease fitting instead of being trapped in there by it.

I'm sorry if this is a noob question , but can I unscrew the grease fitting to remove it and replace it with a new one? I wanted to check with u guys b4 I even tried to unscrew the grease fitting.

I'm trying to avoid removing and replacing the entire ball joint. I did that once b4 and it was very tough.

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iTrader: (14)

yes the fittings unscrew.

Connan1

1) Metric or SAE grease fittings on the original lower ball joint?

2) I'm turning the grease fitting, but the part that it is screwed onto is turning too. Tried to hold it still by wedging a flat-head screwdriver in there while I turn the grease fitting, but it didnt work. Any suggestions?

I'll try to get some pics up of what I'm talking about.

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iTrader: (14)

if the ball joint is spinning as well its time to replace it.

as for metric or standard, i have no idea, i would assume metric. just take it to the local auto parts store and they can match it up.

diesel21

the entire grease fitting should unscrew from the top of the ball joint and just the fitting to the auto parts to match up

Connan1

A = grease fitting I want to remove
B = portion that spins along with grease fitting, which keeps me from removing the grease fitting
C = location I put flat-head screwdriver in in order to stop "B" from spinning too (it did not work)
D = the entire lower ball joint (bottom view)

I was using an 8 mm (I think) combination wrench to turn "A" counter-clockwise. After awhile, I was wondering why it wasnt coming out. Then I turned it while looking closer and noticed "B" was turning as well. I'm thinking "B" shouldnt be turning.

akmusclecar

I think it is time to replace the ball joint. Most likely you won't be able to get the fitting off.

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

replacement time

im sure glad there is no road salt in the south here....i hate rust

you may be able to hold that other piece with some vice grips, to get the fitting out but MTL you need a new ball joint

moparram

Try using a small pick and press on the center of the zerk fitting. Sometimes the ball valve sticks and lets grease flow back out.

Connan1

So, I got the grease fitting off using an air impact wrench. The sudden initial twist from the impact wrench did the trick.

I’m now on a quest to find a new grease fitting with the same dimensions as the original.

I got 1/4” - 28 [threads per inch] grease fittings and they don’t work. The 1/4” diameter seems to be correct, but the thread number is wrong. Tried two auto parts places so far and no correct thread number. Tried the parts counter at a Chevy dealership and no success.

I’m also trying to degrease and clean out the old grease fitting, thinking that some small debris got inside and is preventing the ball check and/or spring from working correctly.

If anyone could tell me the exact dimensions of the grease fitting, and/or where I can go buy em, that would rock. From looking at the grease fitting and comparing it with the ones I bought, its definitely less than 28 threads per inch. My guess is that 1/4” - 18 [threads per inch] would work, but I’m not 100% sure on that.

chads89ta

iTrader: (6)

try going to tractor supply

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iTrader: (14)

have you tried 1/8" NPT? pipe thread

Connan1

So, NAPA was able to hook me up. I took the original zerk fitting to them, the guy looked at it, put it down on the counter, went in the back and brought me the correct one. I was kinda impressed that he didn’t take the original with him to the back. It doesn’t have any markings or numbers on it, so he just eyeballed the dimensions b4 going back there. I forgot to ask him about the size and threads of the fitting.

I tried four places before these guys ... Advance, PepBoys, a Chevy dealership, and a local parts place that used to rep NAPA. Thankfully the place that still reps NAPA had it. I would have tried Tractor Supply next.

Thanks for the posts guys.