Aftermarket Chassis?
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9
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From: Outside Detroit
Car: '91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 unfortunitly
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: stock, soon to have a 9" posi unit
Aftermarket Chassis?
I've seen ads in magazines for complete front or rear frame kits for Chevels, Novas, First Gen and Second Gen Camaros and a few others. My question is this: Can I get one for a 3rd Gen? I've already put Suspension Techniques dropped coil springs, ST sway bar kit, and an Edelbrok Strut Tower Brace on my '91. Also, I have a set a Lakewood Industries Street/ Strip Struts that I haven't gotten around to putting in yet. Eventually I plan on getting tubular control arms and new steering stuff. But, the problem is that my strut towers are starting rust.
I would love to be able to get an aftermarket chassis that I could some how put the body on.
Is this possible or should I start looking for a new Camaro with no rust to put my goodies into?
Let me know what you guy's think.
I would love to be able to get an aftermarket chassis that I could some how put the body on.
Is this possible or should I start looking for a new Camaro with no rust to put my goodies into?
Let me know what you guy's think.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,805
Likes: 107
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Aftermarket Chassis?
the is no removable "frame" or "subframe" in the rear or front of the these cars.
The is no "frame" package or aftermarket "chassis" made and never will be.
You can buy all the removable parts, control arms, panhard, panhard support, torque arms, axles, front k-member, a-arms, trans crossmember, ect.
Check out UMI performance, Spohn Performance, BMR.
The is no "frame" package or aftermarket "chassis" made and never will be.
You can buy all the removable parts, control arms, panhard, panhard support, torque arms, axles, front k-member, a-arms, trans crossmember, ect.
Check out UMI performance, Spohn Performance, BMR.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,264
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Aftermarket Chassis?
Ahh the joys of a unibody car. The closest thing to an aftermarket chassis is a complete tube chassis car but then it doesn't become a streetable car.
There are back half kits available. You can convert the rear to ladder bars or a 4-link but it isn't a bolt in job. It requires a lot of sheet metal cutting and welding to do it.
Technically, a front half can also be done but again it requires a lot of cutting and welding plus the entire front suspension will be replaced then the front of the body needs to be hung off the front half.
Neither of these projects are easy or should be tackled by someone who has no fabrication skills or the required tools. Without doing major modifications, you're limited to the basic component swaps as mentioned above.
When I bought my car 10 years ago to make into a race car, the #1 thing I wanted was a rust free car and I paid more for the car than others just to find one that wasn't a rust bucket. Fixing structural rust repairs on a unibody car just isn't worth it. Although my car only sees 20-30 days a year outside the garage, it's still relatively rust free. There also isn't a whole lot of original sheet metal left in the car.
There are back half kits available. You can convert the rear to ladder bars or a 4-link but it isn't a bolt in job. It requires a lot of sheet metal cutting and welding to do it.
Technically, a front half can also be done but again it requires a lot of cutting and welding plus the entire front suspension will be replaced then the front of the body needs to be hung off the front half.
Neither of these projects are easy or should be tackled by someone who has no fabrication skills or the required tools. Without doing major modifications, you're limited to the basic component swaps as mentioned above.
When I bought my car 10 years ago to make into a race car, the #1 thing I wanted was a rust free car and I paid more for the car than others just to find one that wasn't a rust bucket. Fixing structural rust repairs on a unibody car just isn't worth it. Although my car only sees 20-30 days a year outside the garage, it's still relatively rust free. There also isn't a whole lot of original sheet metal left in the car.
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