iim still kinda new to the supension area i really dont understand what the purpose are of the following things.. i have a nicely built 355 tpi and i dont think im makin enough power to really need alot of suspension upgrades...

driveshaft safety loop
lower control arms
panhrod bar...

what is the advantage of using these items on a stock height car that is a daily driver and will not see the track hardly ever... its just a fun daily driver....

i already have the following parts
stock ws6 suspension (pretty good for stock)
alstons sfcs
bmr sfcs
bmr tower strut brace
umi wonder bar
aluminum driveshaft

things im getting in september
bmr non adjust torque arm
bmr torque arm relocation bracket...

the way i see it everything that i have done and the things im goin to buy in september is way more than enough for a fun daily driver.... it seems like alot of people buy added suspension upgrades like the ones i listed above that they never really take advantage of... i can see the need for the panhrod bar if you car is lowered but i will never lower my car... its low enough as it is.. most people dont even need half the things they buy.. i think alot of people buy it just to say they have it or it makes you feel good to have better than factory parts..... i know i do it to but i think im pretty much done with suspension/chassis upgrades...

 

No argument here. I'm certainly not trained enough to take advantage of what my car can do--and yet, since I'm a hobbyist, I upgrade. That's the name of that game.

JamesC

 

i know its hard to not spend money on these things.... i love modding my GTA.... but i think really for a daily driver the suspension/chassis mods i have should be more than enough... i dont even do burnouts or street race at all really... i just like to cruise and here the sound of my car....

 

The most bang for the buck Mod in my opinion that all 3rd gen cars should have is WELDED IN SFC'S....The world of difference..

 

Hello, first off thank you for being a BMR customer. The drive shaft safety loop is a good idea even if you never go to the track. If your front u joint breaks the loop will prevent serious damage from occuring. Most f bodies are not centered over the rearend correctly from the factory. If you corner carve and like taking corners fast the stock panhard bar will flex under a heavy load, our bar will not. Although it is not necessary unless you lower your car it is a good idea to get the adjustable bar. The stock lower control arms are made from stamped steel with rubber bushings. They flex under heavy load and the rubber bushings absorb some of the power that is trying to be transmitted into the chassis. Our lower control arms are available with either a high durometer urethane bushing or QA1 XR series rod ends. Here is a link to our site, if you have any questions or would like to place an order please give me a call.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F3.htm

 

Driveshaft Safety Loop - Will pretty much do a daily, non-raced driver zero good. The chances of a daily driver that is no LAUNCHED on slicks & breaking u-joints, is virtually nil.

LCAs - Not really needed again, unless you are needing the little extra room to clear wide tires, or need stronger arms. Again, like for a drag car or road car car, in which they would be subjected to twisting forces.

Panhard Bar - Even at stock height, the rear end can be off-center. An Adjustable Panhard Bar will fix that. You can get Non-Adustable ones too, but really, for a daily driver, they aren't needed. Unless you want/need the rear end stronger or centered with an adjustable one.

You can always just box your stock stuff. MUCH cheaper & gives the same result, for a daily driver (except the adjustability feature.

 

hey stephen... are there any other suspension/chassis mods i should get with a daily driver or am i pretty good as is... honestly the car feels alot different what i have now and i really cant see how much more i can improve or really need anything else for a car thats not even race oriented.... the most i do is accelerate quickly when the stop light turns green and wide open throttle every now and then.... i just love the torque and the sound of my cam and exhaust....

 

also what do you mean box your stock stuff... where do i get that...

 

With the above reply, just don't do anything to the supension.

 

Box stock stuff = weld steel plate in the bottoms of them to make them a boxed shape.
I noticed a big difference when I boxed in the stock LCA's and installed poly bushings.

 

For simple daily driver status....

Wonder Bar - is something I've NEVER heard a complaint or "I didn't feel any difference." Everyone always seems to be happy. If you wait & shop for a stock on though, you can get it for $5-$15 (usually)

Lower Control Arm Relocation brackets - But only for a lowered car. Without them, a lowered car will experience wheel hop, on hard "get aways".

I'm one of the believers in Strut Tower Braces. Either a 3-pt or a strong 2-pt. I put on an Edelbrock 3-pt & noticed a difference, but they do require drilling holes to mount. I switched to an UMI Performance 2-pt, which is thicker, stronger tubing & I noticed zero loss.

Drop a string along the side of each rear fender & check the measurement inwards, to each sidewall. IF the rearend is offset & IF IT BOTHERS you, get an adjustable panhard bar. Happens a lot with lowered cars, but even my stock height car was offset, almost a full inch, yet my bushings look & feel good on both ends.