So I'm currently running a 1989 Camaro RS, and I'm going to be putting some money into building a 383 Stroker for it pretty soon, and with the setup I'm aiming for, should be getting around 550HP / 490TQ. Wondering what suspension upgrades are needed from what I currently have(stock parts).

Definitly new shocks all-around, and I've been told to get some air shocks I guess, would you guys recommend this, and what type would you recommend; Also need to do the rear-end, recommendations on this? And any other upgrades I may need, I don't know much about cars currently, as this is my first time doing mechanical work, and my first project car. I definitly appreciate any help you guys might have for me, this forum has been great so far in helping me decide on the parts for the engine, hoping I can get some good advice here as well! Thanks.

 

your going to need SFCs, control arms, TA, just to keep the car from tearing its self apart

 

SFC= Subframe connectors and TA= Torque Arms, right? Sorry like I said I don't know a whole lot about these parts, but assuming that's right, would these be good choices? -

Subframe Connectors - http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/5279/10002/-1 - $283.99 from JEGS

Control Arms - http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/2...oductId=744075 - $107.99 from JEGS

Torque Arms - http://www.jegs.com/p/Edelbrock/Edel...51782/10002/-1 Non-Adjustable $179.99, Adjustable $264.99, from JEGS.

And Shocks(front) - http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/40500/10002/-1 - $109.99 from JEGS

Rear Shocks - http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/40301/10002/-1 - $45.99 from JEGS

Will those shocks work under that much hp/torque? By the way this car is meant to be a street machine, not a racecar, if that helps.

 

Some of that stuff seems overpriced. Right now UMI stuff is on sale at summit

 

edelbrock stuff is crap, dont waste your time with it.

For suspension parts, check out UMI performance, Spohn perfomance, BMR fabrication, global west ect.

 

Thanks for the advice. So are these all the parts I am going to need for this? I'll go check out Spohn, since I see they have ads on this site.. lol

Subframe Connectors - http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...me-Connectors/ - $199.00 from Spohn

Torque Arms - http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...nsmission.html $555.00 from Spohn

Control Arms - http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Control-Arms/ ~$170.00 from Spohn (Should I go with Tubular or Boxed?)

Adjustable Rear Shocks - http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...ocks-Pair.html - $249.95 From Koni

Adjustable Front Shocks - http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...ruts-Pair.html - $549.95 From Koni

Is it worth it to go for adjustable shocks? Dad says yes.. what do you guys think?

And what other parts am I going to need here..?

 

yes, if you can afford it, go with adjustable shocks. The koni yellows are the best bang for the buck shock without spending thousands. They are not really the best for a drag style setup, not sure what you are going for.

I would go with tubular round control arms, adjustable, with at least 1 rod end.


UMI sponsors the site too, as does BMR, they have adds here to, you'll see them. Check them out, they all have a different twist on certain parts.

 

i like the rod/poly combo lca's and phb's for the simple fact that they cannot come loose and adjust themselves over time. you have to undo it to adjust it, but once its set, its set, and honestly, thats good enough for 99% of people. most people dont change ride height on a daily basis

 

Basically I'm going for a street machine, but I may take my car to the track maybe once or twice ever.. just to see what it can do. I'm off to play some drunken poker here soon but tomorrow night when I'm back I'll have to check out some other brands and compare parts/prices. Thanks guys.

 

well im looking at a big SPOHN add at the bottem of this page lol. thats who i went with for all of my suspension. you can get everything adjustable and tubular from him. i recomend lower controll arms, torque arm, and a panhard bar. i recomend adjustalbe if you gunna put in an after market rear like a 9inch or 12 bolt, moser does a good job but their still just a hair off. i used UMI subframe connectors cause i wanted a boxed style connector.

thats where to start, with that motor your gunna have to build a whole car to take it. i know i had to with a 450hp 383.

 

If you're motor is even close to what you're projecting you'll def need to upgrade your chassis. Especially with SFC's. The guys on this site know alot, so don't be afraid to do searches. If it's been done to a thirdgen, it's on this site somewhere. Good luck and keep us posted on the build!

 

Yeah you guys have been great help so far, still havent had time to get that list though.. hopefully tonight.

 

Ok I need to ask some questions on the rear control arms. So the tubulars are lighter than the boxed versions and cheaper (Spohn) now if I don't need the adjustables, it's really a matter of preference? The boxed versions seem from the pics that they would be a bit more stronger.

 

YOU NEED THE ADJUSTABLE CONTROL ARMS

 

What is the benefit from using adjustables compared to non? I don't paln to autocross, just a once in a while cruising vessel. I've seen Spohn also has an adjustable and non adjustable pan hard rod.

 

the adjustable parts allow you to properly locate the axle in the car after you raise or lower the car. Even at "stock" height, the axle rarely is centered in the car. The control arms will allow you to recenter it front to rear, and correct and differences in wheelbase from an accident or production tolerances.

They are not "Needed" but are really good to have.

 

what he said, this is especially true if you plan on using lower control arm relocation brackets, i lowered my car 2-3" put on the LCA relocation brackets, and the crappy arc design for the mount holes pushed my rear wheels 3/4" back making them 1/4" from rubbing in the rear and 1.5" in the front, i had to fully collapse my control arms just to center the wheel in the wheel well, before i got my adjustable control arms/ LCA relocation brackest i had a non adjustable set, and when you punched the gas the car would turn right, after the goodie insatll i can smoke the tires in the pooring rain take my hand off the steering wheel and it will push straight, no squirly crap like before

 

Hello
Like mentioned above having adjustable components allow you to center the rear end when the vehicle is lowered. Adjustable rear control arm allow you to center the rear wheel in the wheel well if you are running a bigger tire (such as a drag radial) I just wanted to leave you know that UMI Performance has a wide variety of suspension parts that may met your needs below is a link!

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...5m8cud0upr49n6

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad

 

Cool on the info. Thanks guys.

 

I would go with UMI for a couple reasons. They make great products as you can see from many reviews, also Brad is on here giving advice about their products all the time and is very knowledgeable about the suspensions on these cars. And like someone said their stuff is on sale at summit! Your money could go father if the proces are lower!

 

Well I have now three to choose from. UMI, Spohn, & Hotchkis. Been reading some good and bad about all three. So I will check around here locally to some of my buddies what they are running and their style of driving and compare to what I really want to do.

Who would have thought suspension shopping can be so involved but it has to be done for safety reasons really. Don't want to buy a product because of just looks or because someone says it's the best when it may not be.

 

After carefully looking into all my options, product information, and everyone's responses on different parts, I went ahead and ordered the Spohn boxed rear trailing arms in black. I'll get the Panhard rod in a short while.