Should of asked first?
#1
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 LS
Should of asked first?
I bought UMI box style subframe connectors weld-in
I was originally going to buy spohn but noticed they were having a sale AND they are box style. well I bought them but never gave it much consideration.. would anyone tell me if they ever installed subframe connectors and how much of a different they felt or heard?... i read comments from the makers and they always seem to make things sound better than what they are... Just curious if anyone felt a different from hauling straight aways, turning, and maybe ttop squeeking or other metals being quieter and not squeeking as much?
I was originally going to buy spohn but noticed they were having a sale AND they are box style. well I bought them but never gave it much consideration.. would anyone tell me if they ever installed subframe connectors and how much of a different they felt or heard?... i read comments from the makers and they always seem to make things sound better than what they are... Just curious if anyone felt a different from hauling straight aways, turning, and maybe ttop squeeking or other metals being quieter and not squeeking as much?
#2
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Car: Blue 84 z28/Cyber 2010ss/rs
Engine: Dart headed, 12:1 355- 510/530 cam
Transmission: TKO 600 Lakewood Bell
Axle/Gears: Richmond 410 Spooled
Re: Should of asked first?
unless ur on a road coarse alot u wont even notice a differance.
i couldnt tell untill i really pushed it in to the corners and on a rough road it will be stiffer feeling
i couldnt tell untill i really pushed it in to the corners and on a rough road it will be stiffer feeling
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 92 Firebird
Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
Transmission: TKO600, T5
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3:70 trutac, 3:23 torsion
Re: Should of asked first?
the car will get a bit tighter and quieter. You will see an difference.
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Car: 85 Camaro IROC
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: open rear, 3.42 gears
Re: Should of asked first?
i didnt for a long time, turns out the shop didnt weld the back part of my sfc's in.
once they were welded in, i MIGHT have felt a difference, but who knows
once they were welded in, i MIGHT have felt a difference, but who knows
#6
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Re: Should of asked first?
I you stitch weld the perimeter style SFC's along the underneath door rails every 4-6 inches with 1" long welds, you will feel the torsional stiffness. this helps reduce twisting of the unibody chassis. not stitch welding the spans will still allow torsional twist. this gets very complicated to explain but basically if you figure the back sfcs to stay flat equal distance off the ground the front left can go up lets say 1" and the right front can go down one inch while the span of the SFC stays straight. The center section of unibody can flex in length and still allow tortional twist even though the SFC's stay ridgid. they need to be joined for best chassis rigidity.
Any of you that know of my lower rear lateral A-arm spreader bar can now assume how keeping the trans tunnel spread helped reduce this torsional twist as well as reduce lower front subframe closure flex. This bar in conjunction with stitch welds helped eliminate chassis flex.
Any of you that know of my lower rear lateral A-arm spreader bar can now assume how keeping the trans tunnel spread helped reduce this torsional twist as well as reduce lower front subframe closure flex. This bar in conjunction with stitch welds helped eliminate chassis flex.
Last edited by Vetruck; 02-24-2010 at 08:09 PM.
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