What suspension mod should I do first to help my 1/4 times and handeling?
What suspension mod should I do first to help my 1/4 times and handeling?
Well???
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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Current Mods: Edelbrock TES Headers, Hooker Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, 160* Thermostat, Accel 8.8mm Ignition Wires, K&N high flow air filters, gutted air box, gutted MAF sensor, Throttle Body Coolant By-Pass, Homemade Ram-Air, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.
1/4 mile times without chip:
Best ET: 15.7 @ 89MPH
Best Corrected ET: 14.5 @ 96MPH
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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Current Mods: Edelbrock TES Headers, Hooker Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, 160* Thermostat, Accel 8.8mm Ignition Wires, K&N high flow air filters, gutted air box, gutted MAF sensor, Throttle Body Coolant By-Pass, Homemade Ram-Air, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.
1/4 mile times without chip:
Best ET: 15.7 @ 89MPH
Best Corrected ET: 14.5 @ 96MPH
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 4
From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
If your getting alot of wheel hop, get a set of LCAs. Check out Spohns stuff.
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-Justin-
T-Top '86 5.0L LG4 700R4 WS6 Now Bilstein equipped!
T-Top '92 5.0L TBI 700R4
My '86 Firebird Homepage
The F-body Model Kit Pictoral Archive (updated 5/15/00)
There can be only one!!
------------------
-Justin-
T-Top '86 5.0L LG4 700R4 WS6 Now Bilstein equipped!
T-Top '92 5.0L TBI 700R4
My '86 Firebird Homepage
The F-body Model Kit Pictoral Archive (updated 5/15/00)
There can be only one!!
That is a tough call because drag racing and handling generally require different parts. A couple of things they do have in common is better bushings, LCAs and maybe a set of LCA relocation brackets.
Better tires will help but once again drag racing requires a set of soft side wall tires and handling requires low profile tires with a stiff side wall.
An adjustable panhard bar could help in both styles of driving, especially if the car is lowered. I have found that the factory bar bends easily and allows the rearend to shift around a little. I have also noticed that the rearend may not be centered under the car from the factory.
Shocks/struts are different depending on your style of racing. Even the size of your sway bar is different depending on how you want to drive your car.
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88 IROC convertible
So slow it is timed with a sundial
Better tires will help but once again drag racing requires a set of soft side wall tires and handling requires low profile tires with a stiff side wall.
An adjustable panhard bar could help in both styles of driving, especially if the car is lowered. I have found that the factory bar bends easily and allows the rearend to shift around a little. I have also noticed that the rearend may not be centered under the car from the factory.
Shocks/struts are different depending on your style of racing. Even the size of your sway bar is different depending on how you want to drive your car.
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88 IROC convertible
So slow it is timed with a sundial
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I agree with the previous comments regarding setting your car up for drag racing. You will want to go with stock springs or drag springs not lowering springs. Also boxed or aftermarket adjustable LCA's along with LCA relocation brackets are recommended. Also an adjustable panhard bar if the rear end is indeed not centered. An adjustable torque arm will allow you to adjust the pinion angle of the rear end and help with wheel hop on launch if you are experiencing that. You can also disconnect the front sway bar links or remove the front sway bar to help with weight transfer. But reconnect them if you are dirving it home from the track.
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