AYYYYYYYYE!!!!

Man, I thought that this one would be easy. Just drop one bolt and be done with it. Nope. Not even close.

How far do I have to go to do this.

Looking at the bolts that go all the way through the tranny, it seems that I would have to drop the trans enought to pull those bolts out.

Is this so?
Should I remove the torque arm from the rear end first.
Should I remove the driveshaft?

I tried to start working on this the other night, but got to damn frustrated real quick. Now, every bolt in the car has loosened from all the vibration the bad mount is causing .... not to mention the "THUMPS" on bad roads.


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Michael Graeber

My Garage

1)83 Z-28 T-Top: Full cage, 9" w/ lad.bars, Midwest Engine Tech 406sbc,Strip Dominator, Demon Carb, Phase VI Chevy Bowtie heads, .630" Crower roller set-up, 1 3/4 coated Hookers 3" true dual exhaust th400, fuel cell & still not running

2)89 Formula WS-6 305 TPI Auto For the road: minor motor, more suspension stuff. MODS

 

I unbolted the 4 bolts that hold the trany xmember and lowered the back of the tranny as far as it would go. Worked fine, and i didnt have to disconnect the d/s or take the rear bolts off the torque arm.

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-Justin-
T-Top '86 5.0L LG4 700R4 WS6 Now Bilstein equipped!
T-Top '92 5.0L TBI 700R4
My '86 Firebird Homepage
The F-body Model Kit Pictoral Archive (updated 9/18/00)

There can be only one!!

 

If you still have your original bushing in there, you'll need to grind the rivets off of it anyways. Unbolt the crossmember to let your tranny down, and if you jack the rear up a little, it'll take the pressure off that torque arm and keep in in line with the bushing, and makes it alot easier to remove the bolts since there's less pressure on them as well. If you don't raise the rearend, be prepared for the torque arm to spring upwards toward the floorboard once it pops out of the bracket/bushing. Oh, by the way, as far as the bolts are concerned, don't worry about getting them all the way out - they'll push back far enough for you to get the nuts and bracket that holds the bushing off. Good luck...

[This message has been edited by thunderstick (edited October 15, 2000).]

 

Thanks guys.

I ended up jacking it up on all 4's, removing the torque arm from the diff, then unbolted the crossmember and followed the above directions.

Was not that bad.... but more difficult than I first expected.

Thanks again. It made a world of difference in top end vibration reduction.

 

Yea man - when I was gonna do mine and realized what the real deal was, I said to hell with it for the time being, but not long after that, I was pulling the tranny, so... THAT was the time to do it. Glad you got it tackled!

KAM

 

I had the same problem. Went over my friends at 730 PM thought it would take an hour. i left his house at 3am. I unbolted Torque arm and the whole thing shifted. i was like dam were in trouble.

 

I unbolted the trans mount and slid the tranny over a bit. This created enough room to remove the torque arm mount and change the bushing.

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1992 Pontiac Firebird 350/Six Speed
1987 Toyota Pickup 383/500+ HP