OK, my steering collum is acting up... it has the tilt option, and the thing wobbles... I know this isnt good, I can actaully MOVE my steering wheel around.. WTF??? How can I fix this?? Also, I want to make my steering box nice and TIGHT, anyone have any ideas on mods for a steering box that I can do?? Thanks guys!

 

Sounds to me like your upper bearing is out in your column, that's all I can think of off the top of my head. I wouldn't reccomend trying to fix it yourself unless you have done something similar before, and have access to a wheel puller and a lock-plate compressor. As for the steering box, I have a blue printed Global West box and I'm still hunting down loose parts that affect my steering, some don't seem worn or loose but they have to be considering the miles and age, and the little bit of play in the steering. Keep looking and remember what what answers the folks after me say, and check everything!

 

Sounds like the 3 screws have come loose. It's not really an easy fix but it is repairable. The entire top half of the steering column needs to be pulled off to get down to the screws. The screws are inverted torx heads. E15 or E20 I can't remember exactly. I have a special 1/4 drive socket ground down especially for doing them. A regular socket is too larger to fit down the holes to access the screws so I ground down the sides of the socket. Of course I can't read any markings on the socket now so I don't know the size.

Starting at the top, remove the steering wheel, horn plate and signal switch (special steering column compresser makes the job go much easier. The top part of the column that contains the ignition tumbler and tilt lever needs to come off next. By now you're down to the actual tilt part. You should see some small access holes and see the screws down in them. Tighten the screws and put it all together again.

If you've never had a tilt column apart before expect to spend the better part of a day doing the job and possibly investing in a few specialty tools to make the job go easier. There's no other way to tighten the screws.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car and knocking on the SuperPro ET class
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857
Best corrected ET: 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87
Best corrected MPH: 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley

 

i just fixed it...500 dollars later its all good...main support check it. Big piece of metal after the tilt.

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88 Firebird 2.8
MODS (either coming or on):
Flowmaster 80 series, Random Technologies Cat, 3" intermediate pipe, Accel 8.8 wires, MSD Coil, MSD Ignition Module,MSD 6A
Currently Working On:
t5 swap
Next to buy:
Slp dual cold air intake!

 

Stephen is right, I had the same thing happen. But I bought the inverted torx in the help section and the one needed for tightening fit down the hole no problem. I think Sears sells the same kit. I would recomend some Loctite on the threads when you put the bolts back in.

James

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If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy
Aftermarket T-56 (pain in the A$S but worth it)
Lots of things to do still