Changing Struts
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: New 700r4 Done by 11/14/07!
Changing Struts
Anyone who's changed their struts, help me out if you would...
The two bolts that hold the strut to the spindle are a pain in the butt. Has anyone changed their struts and taken these bolts out, and they were splined? Were they made to be taken out by the nut first, and the bolt just pops out? What's the deal? I tried to take them off with a pry bar, and couldn't budge them!
The two bolts that hold the strut to the spindle are a pain in the butt. Has anyone changed their struts and taken these bolts out, and they were splined? Were they made to be taken out by the nut first, and the bolt just pops out? What's the deal? I tried to take them off with a pry bar, and couldn't budge them!
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 481
Likes: 1
From: Livermore, Ca. US
Car: Firebird SSA
Engine: 3.1
Transmission: 700R4
I used a breaker bar and BFH. Try to oil the nuts and bolts before using the BFH.
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90 Firebird SSA (Bone stock 3.1)
Everything Below I've added
Engine: Accel Super Coil, 8mm Accel Ignition Wires, 170 Degree Thermostat, NKG Plautum Plugs, K&N Filter, Flowmaster 80
Suspension: Bell Tech Drop Spindles, Edelbrock PanHard Bar, Lakewood Lower Control Arms, Wonderbar IROC-Z, KYB GR2 Struts, KYB Gas-a-Just Shocks, PST Suspension Polygrapite Bushings All Round, 36mm WS6 Front Sway Bar, 24mm WS6 Rear Sway Bar
Brakes: Cross Drilled and sloted Rotors
Appearance: Trans Am Tail Lights, Trans Am Wrap Around Wing, Trans Am 16" Alum rims, Tinted Windows Rear 90% Sides 50%
Interior: GTA power seats, Overhead console, Power windows, Power locks, T-tops, Sun shade, Pioneer P77DH, Uniden radar detector, Intellitronix - Fuel pressure gauge, Transmission temp gauge. (In pods)
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90 Firebird SSA (Bone stock 3.1)
Everything Below I've added
Engine: Accel Super Coil, 8mm Accel Ignition Wires, 170 Degree Thermostat, NKG Plautum Plugs, K&N Filter, Flowmaster 80
Suspension: Bell Tech Drop Spindles, Edelbrock PanHard Bar, Lakewood Lower Control Arms, Wonderbar IROC-Z, KYB GR2 Struts, KYB Gas-a-Just Shocks, PST Suspension Polygrapite Bushings All Round, 36mm WS6 Front Sway Bar, 24mm WS6 Rear Sway Bar
Brakes: Cross Drilled and sloted Rotors
Appearance: Trans Am Tail Lights, Trans Am Wrap Around Wing, Trans Am 16" Alum rims, Tinted Windows Rear 90% Sides 50%
Interior: GTA power seats, Overhead console, Power windows, Power locks, T-tops, Sun shade, Pioneer P77DH, Uniden radar detector, Intellitronix - Fuel pressure gauge, Transmission temp gauge. (In pods)
Member

Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 322
Likes: 2
From: Sweaburg, ON Canada
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Yes, those bolts are a real bugger to get out! On my '83 I gave up after breaking a 1/2" ratchet with a 5' pipe on it and took the job to a shop. They must have spent a solid 10 minutes with a heavy duty air impact tool getting one of them loose. I did my '85 at home. The driver's side was easy, but the other side was not. Even after overnight soaking with penetrating oil, it took a lot of pounding to get the bolts out after I got the nuts off. The threads got a bit distorted, even with the nuts left on, so it took a lot of oil and anti-seize to get them back together. New bolts probably would have been better if I'd wanted to get them and take a couple of days longer.
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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Posi, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax
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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Posi, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
AT4 T/A, try to get your hands on some penetrating oil from KROIL corporation out of TN. This stuff is THE best penetrant on the market, it'll loosen up anything. THey have a website. FYI..
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Ed Miller
Charlotte, NC
1991 RS,
bone stock driver;
1988 IROC L98
TPIS Fast Pack,MSD 6AL, Dynomax cat-back so far.
"Do you want to race or don't ya? I want to race." Dale Earnhardt
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Ed Miller
Charlotte, NC
1991 RS,
bone stock driver;
1988 IROC L98
TPIS Fast Pack,MSD 6AL, Dynomax cat-back so far.
"Do you want to race or don't ya? I want to race." Dale Earnhardt
Soak it with penetrant and let it still for a couple of hours then stand of the rachet until the nut breaks loose. That's what I did to mine.
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http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...781&p=29492901 http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...781&p=29492902 http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...781&p=29495767
"DriveHarder"
Stock 305TBI, EDL strut tower brace w/spohn SFC's on the way and wonderbar, ASCD big block hood,
Eibach Sportline Springs,
Koni Struts and Shocks,
SSPE lower control arms and Panhard bar,
Hellwig Rear Swaybar and Energy Suspension bushings.Aluminum Driveshaft. Posi-rear
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http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...781&p=29492901 http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...781&p=29492902 http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...781&p=29495767
"DriveHarder"
Stock 305TBI, EDL strut tower brace w/spohn SFC's on the way and wonderbar, ASCD big block hood,
Eibach Sportline Springs,
Koni Struts and Shocks,
SSPE lower control arms and Panhard bar,
Hellwig Rear Swaybar and Energy Suspension bushings.Aluminum Driveshaft. Posi-rear
I used a high quality air impact gun. I did my dad's and mine. It takes me about an hour to change both struts. Cake work.
BTW, I don't know how anyone would want to do this work without air tools. Way to much work!
BTW, I don't know how anyone would want to do this work without air tools. Way to much work!
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
I guess some bolts are tougher than others, cuz I did mine ('91 Z28) with no problems whatsoever. I suppose if it were the first time changing them, it could be worse, but when I did it last time, I had no problems. A friend of mine did the first set for me and didn't have any problems then, either. I used my 1/2" breaker bar to get them off, and used the torque wrench for final torque. Good luck to you - sorry you're having a hard time with them...
KAM
KAM
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Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Henderson, NV., USA
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 700r4
Hey AT4T/A, a fellow Las Vegan, actually I am in Henderson, anyway whats with these bolts or nuts, I am about to do a front suspension rebulid on my 87 IROC and I see these problems with getting these bolts out, just curious as to why the bolts won't come out once the nuts are removed, but anyway I will soak them really good with some penatrating oil and hope they come out without to much persuasion (BFH) any other tips are welcome. Thanx
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TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
March Underdrive Pulleys
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 9 bolt 3.23 g92 axle, 4 wh. disc brks.
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TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
March Underdrive Pulleys
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 9 bolt 3.23 g92 axle, 4 wh. disc brks.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
From: Olive Branch, MS
Car: 1990 RS
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH-350
i did mine about 2 months ago on a 89 rs and they came out pretty easy. the only thing that i didnt like was the fact that i pulled out f***** stock shocks and struts. it made a huge difference.just my .02
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