Well, just on the bushing at the transmission. This book says to remove coil springs and then describes doing the work in the rear. Do I have to do that to replace the bushing?

Also, I ordered one from Jeg's and it describes 1 as: Torque arm lips facing away from driveshaft and
2 as: Torque arm lips facing driveshaft.
How do I find this out or do all the 84's use the same setup?

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--Steve S--
1984 Trans Am 305 LG4, 5 speed
Daily Driver, Flowmaster 80 Series
Holley 600 cfm & vacuum advance

 

You don't HAVE to do it, depends on how strong you are, you should be strong enough to manipulate the torque arm around the mount with the car on jackstands (rear hanging under own weight, reverse to install). You'll have to find out which one you need by going under the car. They changed them in 84 1/2 so it's a toss up to which one it is. One torque arm is solid (as in my hardtop) and the other has holes in it. The solid one is listed as 82 - 84 and the light weight version is 85 - 92.

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1984 WS6 Hardtop Trans Am
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 T-top Trans Am
4-bolt main 350, performer intake, headers, Holley 650, T-5, hayes clutch, dual elec. fans and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
13.98 @ 101

 

Go to energy suspensions website. They show you how to look at it. As for putting it in I just jackup the front up and went from there. The arm never moved when i unbolted it.

 

Put the front on ramps, jack up the rear, put some stands where they should go on the frame but don't jack it way up. Just enough to let the rear wheels hit the ground a bit. There is load on it when the car is on the ground or if you jack it up and put stands on the axles and the tires don't touch the ground. With load it will want to fly up into the floor pan.
Once you do that, it's gravy.