Need help with line lock install!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 406
Likes: 1
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 355
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 3.89
Need help with line lock install!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i purchased a hurst line lock and i need to know whqat the fittings are for the distribution block and the brake lines. Any help is appreciated especially with pics or a parts list. Thanks in advance.
they're called iso or european flare, auto zone has them. without going out to look i'll try to remember how i did mine. plugged the line out of the bottom of the valve ,ran new line from top of valve to seloniod (mounted on fire wall near the master cylinder) then line out to a tee, then a line to each caliper. ran power wire to a phone cord looking switch mounted on steering wheel. i ran all new lines to the front when i did mine.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
From: Saugerties, NY, USA
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9 bolt.
I just got mine plumbed in the chicken last night finally after screwing with it on Sunday and getting a leaky mess.
I started off trying to do what Scauffiel did in this post: https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/001435.html
Only problem was that while I did get the factory lines to start and partially thread in, I couldn't get them tight enuf to seal leakfree. I have the hurst install kit also so I have some of the fittings that work and a few lines for extra parts.
So last night, I went and borrowed my friends' double flare kit.
The line lock has 1/8" npt outputs. The factory brake lines are 3/16" but have those funky european fittings and the regular 3/16" brake lines that come with the install kit have the standard flare fittings.
The install kit has 2 1/8" pipe to 3/16" flare 90 degree elbows with it.
I cut off the factory ends of both front brake lines and then took 2 of the install kit 3/16" lines, cut them and got the flare fittings from them. I stuck the 3/16" flare fittings on the factory lines, double flared them in, put the 90 degree elbows into the line lock and it went right in.
I also bought a $2.10 8" chunk of 3/16" line to use for the prop valve output to line lock input. I didn't have to bend it as much as Scauffiel did, just 1 loop and it's in there.
Well, that was 11:30 pm last night... gonna go bleed it today and hope everything works.
I also have to grind down my shifter tube as I bought a hurst T-handle (with the button) but the biggest threads I could get it in was 7/16"/20 and the stock shifter is at least 1/2" (not sure, didn't check, just know it's big).
UPDATE: Leaked again. This time at the line line input from the prop valve. Got a 3/16" flare (female) to 1/8" NPT (male) adapter from NAPA - that fixed it. EVERYTHING ON THE HURST LINE LOCK IS 1/8" NPT FITTINGS... about time I actually read the directions.
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'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-5/3.45 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.
[This message has been edited by Brian Shaughnessy (edited May 04, 2001).]
I started off trying to do what Scauffiel did in this post: https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/001435.html
Only problem was that while I did get the factory lines to start and partially thread in, I couldn't get them tight enuf to seal leakfree. I have the hurst install kit also so I have some of the fittings that work and a few lines for extra parts.
So last night, I went and borrowed my friends' double flare kit.
The line lock has 1/8" npt outputs. The factory brake lines are 3/16" but have those funky european fittings and the regular 3/16" brake lines that come with the install kit have the standard flare fittings.
The install kit has 2 1/8" pipe to 3/16" flare 90 degree elbows with it.
I cut off the factory ends of both front brake lines and then took 2 of the install kit 3/16" lines, cut them and got the flare fittings from them. I stuck the 3/16" flare fittings on the factory lines, double flared them in, put the 90 degree elbows into the line lock and it went right in.
I also bought a $2.10 8" chunk of 3/16" line to use for the prop valve output to line lock input. I didn't have to bend it as much as Scauffiel did, just 1 loop and it's in there.
Well, that was 11:30 pm last night... gonna go bleed it today and hope everything works.
I also have to grind down my shifter tube as I bought a hurst T-handle (with the button) but the biggest threads I could get it in was 7/16"/20 and the stock shifter is at least 1/2" (not sure, didn't check, just know it's big).
UPDATE: Leaked again. This time at the line line input from the prop valve. Got a 3/16" flare (female) to 1/8" NPT (male) adapter from NAPA - that fixed it. EVERYTHING ON THE HURST LINE LOCK IS 1/8" NPT FITTINGS... about time I actually read the directions.
------------------
'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-5/3.45 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.
[This message has been edited by Brian Shaughnessy (edited May 04, 2001).]
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