bitchin_buick

I have spring compressers but can't seem to utalize them up front. Mounted control arm by 2 back bolts (pivet point). Didn't feel safe that way and tried jacking control arm/spring up together. Niether way felt safe. Some advice would be great............

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

use the spring compresser, but you need a section of pipe tp slide over the threaded portion. usually about 4-5" long works well. there are pics on here somewhere, maybe they will pop up. I've used this method and it works like a charm

wvabreeze

Jacking the spring and control arm method is what I did. But for a little peace of mind I used a rachet strap with one end hooked in a middle coil and the other end hooked to something on the opposite side of the car. You don't want any real tension on the strap but if something slips and the spring tries to shoot out the strap will catch it. It's a nerve racking job,just be on your toes and paying attention.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I usually wrap my engine hoist chain around the control arm and through the middle of the coil spring for safety. Its kept things in place more than once for me. I also use the pipe on the compressor method. I use a 4" long 1/2" diameter piece of black iron pipe, available at your local Lowes or Home Depot for a couple bucks. It also helps to have the bottom hooks of the compressor on the bottom of the control arm, not the bottom of the spring. Just make sure it can't slip through the hole in the bottom. THAT was scary

When you're jacking the arm up, it helps to have a heavy friend sit on the fender to help weigh the car down a bit. Even with the compressor tightened as far as it will go, I've had problems with the spring lifting the whole corner of the car up.

You can also try using the balljoint as the pivot point, some say it works great but I've never tried it. I would rather try to line up one balljoint stud from outside the wheel well than have to climb under car to line up 2 control arm bolts.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Here's a pic of the compressor/pipe nipple.

JamesC

RagRoc

If using the floor jack method to compress the spring I loop a 2" ratchet strap through the crossmember and attach each hook to the axle of the floor jack. This keeps the car from raising while the jack is pumped to compress the spring.

My favorite compression method is to use 1/2" steel banding and compress the spring approx 2" with the tensioner 180 degrees apart. Crimp the clamps in place, install the spring, and cut the banding.

Primetime91

iTrader: (15)

What i've found helpful, is to "disassemble" the spring compressor before compressing the spring.

On a compressor like the one in the photo JamesC provided, the top piece with hooks is threaded, while the bottom one is allowed to slide freely up and down the threads.

Unthread the top piece and center it in the spring, and center the bottom piece in the spring so the holes in the center line up. Then it's an easy matter to take the long threaded piece through both holes & compress the spring, since both holes are lined up. MUCH EASIER than trying to maneuver the whole compressor as an assembly, and this way it's easy to compress the entire spring, not just some coils in the middle.

I was able to use this method with MOOGs 740~ lb springs which are 13" tall on a buddies camaro. I feel much safer with this method than jacking up by the control arm

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I like the idea of the ratchet straps tying the car to the jack. I'll have to remember that if I ever take those things out again. Hopefully I'll never have to take them out again, I HATE doing that.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Me too. I was at a swap meet one time looking at a compressor and an old fellow noticed and stopped to ask how my dental plan was. Food for thought! I never mess with installing/removing without a chain wrapped through the springs and a-arm.

JamesC

bitchin_buick

MY problem is with the control arm dropped I can't seem to position the top and bottom of the spring in thier respective "seats" prior to jacking up. I use my sons bike chain/lock to tether the spring down. I'm working on getting some pics posted. Thanks............

bitchin_buick

Frustrated why I can't seem to get springs to seat right prior to jacking up control arm. >>The angle seems off<<. To me this seems like a no brainer but apparently I am wrong. I even took this opportunity while revamping the entire front suspension(KYB struts, ball joints and all bushing,) to drop the bird a touch...... I cut the springs. This is what I got. Thanks for the input....... Did I cut the spring too much? What in the heck is my brain missing?



Sorry pics are so big. My compressors become to long when compressed and won't fit up into the upper seat........ Worked good on the Buick, not so good for the bird. White zip-strip represents bottom of spring.

Primetime91

iTrader: (15)

This is why we're recommending a spring compressor. You compress the spring beforehand and place it in the spring pocket, so you don't have to worry about jacking the arm up with the spring putting pressure on it

Primetime91

iTrader: (15)

Those compressors are for a macpherson strut spring, you need an internal coil spring compressor

bitchin_buick

I was hoping to make do with what I own. Apparently this weekend it's time to rent the other style compressor. I'm not sure if I like the look of how the cut stock spring looks(How will it "seat"?) I know it's been done time and time again from being a member to this site for over a year but I am second guessing myself. Did I cut too much? Am I good?

bitchin_buick

Did I cut too much? (pic is how much cut off) Will it "seat" ok on the control arm?

pleiku10

Just a thought, I cut a piece of 1/4 steel to fit under the a-arm, drilled a hole for the threaded rod to fit thru, took off the bottom hooks, and started turning that way- worked fine and it wont slip out. Still had to compress the springs almost all the way to clear the frame pocket, it is a PITA. Can't imagine trying to do it as GM recommends, undo the a-arm bolts and jack it up?? Right!

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

You know, I have changed the springs in so many of these cars that I think I've only used a spring compressor ONCE. Actually, I just put my old Prokit springs in my 91 yesterday and I had ALL 4 in in about an hour and a half using just my jack and a jack stand for support. I guess I've always been lucky maybe,lol. I don't use a chain to hold the spring before I get the strut loose. My tool of choice has always been a cut off 2 foot length of common power cord that I wrap around and tie the spring down with. I usually wrap the brake rotor up with a towel or something so when it comes down it doesn't hit the ground hard. once I get the spring in it's pocket I muscle up the rotor and A arm and slide the jack under it and jack it up until I can get a bolt through the strut. after that it's as simple as pie. Not totally conventional but it works for me,lol.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I could never get the compressor to work any time I tried to. Neither could my buddy who is fairly well-known on here, but I'll leave his name out of it.

Best thing to do is to have a buddy, and use a long crowbar, a good four feet or so long - you'll need some decent leverage and mostly length because the end of the crowbar will be past your feet and you'll be pushing up with your arms. .

Bolt the a-arm into the k-member with balljoint ready to go. I put a jack under the a-arm, hve my buddy man the jack, and I put the spring into its upper spring pocket and hold it there. Then I hook the crowbar above the spring pocket and lever up against the spring. Wear some decent shoes or boots, hold the spring on the crowbar with your feet as you push up. with your arms. And if it's not obvious, you're gonna be sitting down with all your weight on your butt cheeks. I'm not sure how clear this is, it's hard to describe, but it's fairly easy if you've got a friend who can man the jack for you.

The only hard part is getting the crowbar level so that the spring doesnt slide down it - that's what your feet are for, and getting hte crowbar hooked into the a-arm above the spring pocket. Once you get the a-arm up a little bit the spring will catch on the a-arm spring pocket very easily and just stay there.

Edit: Sounds pretty similar to robertfrank's method above. As soon as you can get the inside of hte spring hooked on the spring pocket you're pretty much good to go. Just use your feet to hold the spring in the right area and it'll be fine. I know some of you are scared of springs under tension, but the kind of compression we're achieving here isnt really that high just to get it started.

bitchin_buick

After reading L695speed's adventure(another thread) and seeing the Mods link to my/this thread I thought I would post. DO NOT CUT YOUR SPRINGS. >>L695speed is installing new springs so he is not stupid like I was.<<.... I removed the springs ONLY because I put in new control arm bushings, ball joints, KYB's struts, end link bolts, control arm bushings...... While they where out I thought it would be a good idea to cut them and drop the Bird a little (I was told in another thread of mine you can do this) STUPID IDEA . ALL my money and time was wasted! My front end is just as bad if not worse since I cut the springs. I hit a pebble and it feels like I hit a brick! Either I did something wrong or I am correct in saying. "DO NOT CUT YOUR SPRINGS." Just wanted to for-worn any suspension NoObs(like I was)..... Year later and still really mad (mad is not the word I really want to say!) at myself......

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

And what kind of shocks/struts are you using? Im running cut IROC springs (among the stiffest out there) and even the ladies dont think my car rides rough - it rides firm, but not rough. How much did you cut? It's not a good idea to go more than about a half a coil.

Edit: I see you cut a full coil... not really a good idea. I know some guys that cut 3/4 of a coil, but there's a reason not everyone does that. After a half a coil it's a good idea to move onto lowering springs for more of a drop. I cut around 1/3 of a coil off mine, and 1/4 of a coil off the rears if I remember right. Removing the rear isolator was enough to level otu the car. The problem is the rear springs are progressive rate so the spring rate goes up VERY quickly when you start cutting coils off. So to keep the spring rates balanced you're pretty much limited to cutting a half coil in the front and a 1/4 in the rear. If you dont care about spring rate balance or performance or ride quality, you can feel free to cut to your heart's content to level out the car - you'd be surprised how many purpose built showcars have all their springs trimmed to get the ride height exactly right.

Edwardgp

I do not see anyone that had the problem that I had. The Springs I bought were for lifting the front three inches for weight transfer. I bought the internal spring compressor and started compressing. I got it compressed a little and it was getting tough. I pulled out the impact wrench and was hitting it a few times and was watching pretty close. Sweat was bedding up on my fore head from being nervous. I was hitting it a few more times and it was getting hard with the impact. Started watching a little closer and noticed it was straightening out the hooks on the spring compressor. Do not know what to do now. I gently let all the pressure off and that is it. Maybe the compressor is not the best?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

sounds like a crappy spring compressor. Probably made in china and with soft metal.

i compressed the moog iroc springs with mine, and those suckers are tough, with no issues.


however, aside from those springs (known for being too long), i have never needed to use a spring comp to install a spring on a 3rd gen

L695speed

LOL, actually I'm back at it. Gave up the first time decided to wait til I got the car off the jackstands. Tried the jacking up with the A arm method, no joy. No motor in the car is my problem. I need a bloody sumo wrestler on the fender to get the spring to compress. I need to find that thread I started. God what a pain in the *** this is. I need a compressor period in my case. Debating on whether to go with the claw one that will slip on the bottom of the spring pocket or the four claw version. I'll have to get it and try again. Maybe I will have better luck. Last time the car was teetering on the last jackstand and I didn't have all the suspension parts. Now I do so the rear is done and on the ground, front I have all the parts on just need the springs in the front.

Edwardgp

I hear you bro it is a very stressful job for sure. It is almost unbelievable how much energy those compressed springs hold.

Duane's 91 Z/28

iTrader: (1)

I sure wish I would have read this thread before last Saturday when I tried to put my coil springs in my car. I never did get them in. (slap myself on the head) Oh well, live and learn.

Stewie

Is this the best type of spring compressor to use?

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I think spring compressors are very unsafe. Way too much potential energy there waiting to go off while you're handling it in tight spaces.

I'm saving up for some ground control weight jacks, when I get those Im going to do a youtube video showing how to install springs my way, super easy, 5 minutes a side, all it takes is a crowbar and a helper with a jack. Give it a shot, play around with it and see if you can get the hang of it.



if the bar slips (Which it does, a lot before you get the hang of it, never had anything bad happen to me, and if you're doing it right your body isnt anywhere near the direction of the spring's motion, but even if it was the worst that can happen is the spring will fall out. Trust me, it doesnt get compressed enough to shoot around the garage and break bones this way. ) it slips far too gradually for anything explosive to happen, and the spring doesnt get compressed anywhere near as far as you need to with spring compressors.

1. Hook end of crowbar somewhere around the top side of the spring pocket on a fully drooped A-arm.
2. hold crowbar so that it holds coil spring into the top of the spring pocket in the k-member.
3. Push up on crowbar while you slide the spring "down" the crowbar.
4. When spring is in place over the spring pocket, pull the crowbar out while holding the spring there with your feet. It will go down and hopefully hook on the spring pocket. If it slips, it will just fall onto the garage floor.

It requires a little technique to learn, and trust me when I first tried to figure it out I couldnt make it work, but I never felt endangered the way I did with the spring compressor I spent 2 hours fussing with. I finally developed a good method and got the other side in in 10 minutes. The next time I had my springs out I could do them in 5 minutes per side including jacking them up and bolting in the ball joint to the spindle.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Yes

whatdayasay

.


Where can I can get one like it?

plum92_camaro

just about any parts store. i have never used one since they are not needed for removal, or for installing weight jacks but i imagine the style with four hooks would be better with the pipe nipple needed to prevent the threaded rod from hitting the top of the kmember and getting in the way. a washer might make it work. that is the style my local oreillys had for rental.

572_Rat

The coil springs are the only job I hate doing, I installed the new springs when I installed my Racecraft spindles, I actually did not know about the pipe fix for spring compressor, I actually cut the rod down so it would not hit.

When I saw the Racecraft spindles were cracking on people, I knew I had to take them back out again, it took me a couple of days to get the nerve to do it again. Next time I am going to coil overs so I never have to deal with this again or to air bags

rawley2

WOW,,

Glad I replaced mine with weight jacks. I put everything in place by hand. Both control arm bolts and the ball joint. Then 30 turns with a 1/2" extension and bang I lowered my car one inch and it's in. Heck I bet I have 30 more turns on the weight jack to go above stock height if I want to,, or take some out to go lower, I know I can go another inch lower easy with the 900Lb springs I have..

Food for thought. They are really not that expensive.