Super n00b shock/strut question
Super n00b shock/strut question
Hey, I have a super n00bish shock & strut question pertaining to my Firebird. I'm finally getting around to picking up some replacement shocks/struts, as the car desperately needs them. What I'm mainly wondering, is when I'm peaking around online, I see one part category for shocks/struts. Most of the parts available are listed as such. Does the shock/strut description mean that the price is for one single shock AND strut assembly? or that it is only a shock, or only a strut? thanks!
P.S: Should I still be ok using the old springs?
P.S: Should I still be ok using the old springs?
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1982 Z28, 1983 Z28
Engine: 5.7L 530hp, 5.7L 430hp
Transmission: TH350, 700R4
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", 10 Bolt 3.23
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
Old springs are fine, but they do sag after awhile. Those are up to you. I replaced mine, but they were 20 years old before I did. Usually the price is for an assembly of one or the other. When in doubt, email the seller and ask.
Last edited by janson327; Aug 8, 2010 at 10:23 PM.
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
A strut is a type of shock, so they are not separate items for 1 corner of the car. 2 struts front, 2 shocks rear.
As for your springs....That depends on if they are sagging any & if you want to replace them. I replaced mine with the weight jacks (adjustable lowering spring setup), but my car was riding only 1/2" lower than the stock height 23 years ago. Did they need replacing? No. I just wanted my GTA lower.
As for your springs....That depends on if they are sagging any & if you want to replace them. I replaced mine with the weight jacks (adjustable lowering spring setup), but my car was riding only 1/2" lower than the stock height 23 years ago. Did they need replacing? No. I just wanted my GTA lower.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1982 Z28, 1983 Z28
Engine: 5.7L 530hp, 5.7L 430hp
Transmission: TH350, 700R4
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", 10 Bolt 3.23
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
Stephen, thats all I did my springs for, they worked, just wanted some new fancy ones. Its your baby you have to treat it!
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
What is the best way to test if the springs are too saggy? Not looking to modify ride height, at least right now, but hoping I can get away with the old springs for now, and upgrade to some heavier duty ones later on when I can start doing some other upgrades, like getting a posi rear axle for it. 
P.S: How come some front strut parts I'm looking at are listed as "front", and others as "Front drivers side"?. Isn't it just 2 front strut, 2 rear shock as you guys said? Also, are KYB's worth it? or should I go w/something else? thanks again!

P.S: How come some front strut parts I'm looking at are listed as "front", and others as "Front drivers side"?. Isn't it just 2 front strut, 2 rear shock as you guys said? Also, are KYB's worth it? or should I go w/something else? thanks again!
Last edited by Flightoficarus; Aug 8, 2010 at 11:18 PM.
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
What is the best way to test if the springs are too saggy? Not looking to modify ride height, at least right now, but hoping I can get away with the old springs for now, and upgrade to some heavier duty ones later on when I can start doing some other upgrades, like getting a posi rear axle for it. 

Technically speaking, for very high end setups, left & right would get different weights, due to the ?150lb/200lb? you would want different spring rates for te track. For a street car, it wouldn't matter. The advertisers are probably just doing it to make theirs look better tan the competition. Where are you seeing different rates for left & right?
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
I took a quick look at it w/a tape measure. Where exactly should I be measuring from? I don't exactly have the best pic of it on my comp, but it'll show you it's current ride height.

This pic sorta makes the back look like it sits higher a bit, but I found the same (about 3-3&1/2 inches or so) distance between the top of the tire and the base of the fender in the wheel opening.
The front struts I've found aren't listed as different rates for the right and left, it's just that one page listed it simply as "front", and another (Autopartswarehouse) listed it as "drivers side", but they do not have a "passenger side" one (so I'm assuming they just use the same thing on both, right?).

This pic sorta makes the back look like it sits higher a bit, but I found the same (about 3-3&1/2 inches or so) distance between the top of the tire and the base of the fender in the wheel opening.
The front struts I've found aren't listed as different rates for the right and left, it's just that one page listed it simply as "front", and another (Autopartswarehouse) listed it as "drivers side", but they do not have a "passenger side" one (so I'm assuming they just use the same thing on both, right?).
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
Leave the springs alone. There are circumstances where you may want to replace them or they may need it, but reading between the lines I think you're basically asking if springs are a wear and tear item in the same sense that oil, shocks, struts, tires, brake pads, bushings, etc are. The short answer is no, they're not. Dont even bother replacing the springs unless you want to.
Reasons to replace springs:
1. Damage (usually from people taking a torch to them to lower the car)
2. sagging so bad your car sits obviously unevenly front to rear.
3. To lower the car
4. To get a different spring rate for performance/handling reasons. Usually goes hand in hand with number 3.
If you've never messed with them, they're fine. Just leave them in the car. If you just want to find something to replace that may need attention, look into having the a-arm bushings replaced while the front end is apart.
Reasons to replace springs:
1. Damage (usually from people taking a torch to them to lower the car)
2. sagging so bad your car sits obviously unevenly front to rear.
3. To lower the car
4. To get a different spring rate for performance/handling reasons. Usually goes hand in hand with number 3.
If you've never messed with them, they're fine. Just leave them in the car. If you just want to find something to replace that may need attention, look into having the a-arm bushings replaced while the front end is apart.
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
I took a quick look at it w/a tape measure. Where exactly should I be measuring from? I don't exactly have the best pic of it on my comp, but it'll show you it's current ride height.
This pic sorta makes the back look like it sits higher a bit, but I found the same (about 3-3&1/2 inches or so) distance between the top of the tire and the base of the fender in the wheel opening.
The front struts I've found aren't listed as different rates for the right and left, it's just that one page listed it simply as "front", and another (Autopartswarehouse) listed it as "drivers side", but they do not have a "passenger side" one (so I'm assuming they just use the same thing on both, right?).
This pic sorta makes the back look like it sits higher a bit, but I found the same (about 3-3&1/2 inches or so) distance between the top of the tire and the base of the fender in the wheel opening.
The front struts I've found aren't listed as different rates for the right and left, it's just that one page listed it simply as "front", and another (Autopartswarehouse) listed it as "drivers side", but they do not have a "passenger side" one (so I'm assuming they just use the same thing on both, right?).

Leave the springs alone. There are circumstances where you may want to replace them or they may need it, but reading between the lines I think you're basically asking if springs are a wear and tear item in the same sense that oil, shocks, struts, tires, brake pads, bushings, etc are. The short answer is no, they're not. Dont even bother replacing the springs unless you want to.
Reasons to replace springs:
1. Damage (usually from people taking a torch to them to lower the car)
2. sagging so bad your car sits obviously unevenly front to rear.
3. To lower the car
4. To get a different spring rate for performance/handling reasons. Usually goes hand in hand with number 3.
If you've never messed with them, they're fine. Just leave them in the car. If you just want to find something to replace that may need attention, look into having the a-arm bushings replaced while the front end is apart.
Reasons to replace springs:
1. Damage (usually from people taking a torch to them to lower the car)
2. sagging so bad your car sits obviously unevenly front to rear.
3. To lower the car
4. To get a different spring rate for performance/handling reasons. Usually goes hand in hand with number 3.
If you've never messed with them, they're fine. Just leave them in the car. If you just want to find something to replace that may need attention, look into having the a-arm bushings replaced while the front end is apart.
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
Alright, I took another measurement the way you described, and came up w/about 27 1/2+ inches all around, which I'm told is correct stock ride height for a third gen. Are my springs good then?
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
I have seen people put lowering springs in their car & had the car end up HIGHER than before. Just because a car is not sitting crooked, does not mean the springs are good. So the sagging of springs is not always an obvious thing, like you suggested above. Your "advice" was not very sound advice.....
And the reason I say sagging unevenly is because the rear springs very rarely sag like the fronts do. I've personally never seen rear springs sag although Im sure it happens, the fronts always seem to wear out before the rears do. That's why I phrased it the way I did.
And to the OP, take it with a grain of salt, but I wouldn't worry the slightest about reusing the springs.
Last edited by InfernalVortex; Aug 12, 2010 at 06:24 PM.
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
Just because the springs are sagging doesn't mean they're going to fail. I've never even heard of a spring failing unless someone used a torch to cut them before. Now they may not perform as well in a performance driving scenario, but I'd never call it unsafe, and judging from the OP's first post, it doesn't seem like PDE's are his priority. Very badly worn shocks I'd call unsafe, but sagging springs are a non-issue in most cases.
And the reason I say sagging unevenly is because the rear springs very rarely sag like the fronts do. I've personally never seen rear springs sag although Im sure it happens, the fronts always seem to wear out before the rears do. That's why I phrased it the way I did.
And to the OP, take it with a grain of salt, but I wouldn't worry the slightest about reusing the springs.
And the reason I say sagging unevenly is because the rear springs very rarely sag like the fronts do. I've personally never seen rear springs sag although Im sure it happens, the fronts always seem to wear out before the rears do. That's why I phrased it the way I did.
And to the OP, take it with a grain of salt, but I wouldn't worry the slightest about reusing the springs.
Like.....
If a spring is heated & it begins to sag? It is now weaker & more brittle, possibly bringing about broken spring failure.
Worn/sagging springs can cause shocks/struts to bottom out & blow. So yes, sagging springs are DEFINITELY an issue.
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
Did anyone have any comment on the 27 1/2+ inches all around for ride height? I've heard that is stock for a third gen, and indicates the springs should be good.
I'm thinking I will go with some heavy-duty/lower springs in the future anyway, but I'm curious. They'll need replacing eventually anyway it sounds like, thanks!
I'm thinking I will go with some heavy-duty/lower springs in the future anyway, but I'm curious. They'll need replacing eventually anyway it sounds like, thanks!
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
JamesC
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
I just dont buy that non-sagging springs "need" to be replaced. People cut springs ALL the time and that risks shocks/struts blowing out on a regular basis. The only concession I can give you on that is that cut springs and lowering springs have a higher spring rate, so they may have less spring travel.
Im not saying you're wrong, but there's no need to replace springs unless they're obviously sagging or there's a dangerous structural issue with them. A slight sag I wouldn't even worry about.
Last edited by InfernalVortex; Aug 14, 2010 at 01:42 PM.
Re: Super n00b shock/strut question
Well, I finally got to drive the thing with the new shocks and struts on it, and all I can say is wow, what a difference! That car is actually driveable again! 
However, now that the ride is much less bumpy and harsh, I've noticed some other sounds that I suspect are the hatch shock supports. While the car itself takes bumps much better, and the squeaks have been reduced, I notice what sounds like the glass hatch bumping around behind me inside the car when I do hit small bumps. Is that what is causing that to happen?

However, now that the ride is much less bumpy and harsh, I've noticed some other sounds that I suspect are the hatch shock supports. While the car itself takes bumps much better, and the squeaks have been reduced, I notice what sounds like the glass hatch bumping around behind me inside the car when I do hit small bumps. Is that what is causing that to happen?
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