A friend of mine gave me this. It has 3.5 something gears in it. I forgot. It's 52 1/4" from the outside backing plate to plate for the drums. Is this to wide, too short or just right? I could just measure mine and see. But... Also, can I buy the brackets and weld them on it or do I have to cut the ones off my rear and remount them? Also, it's an open diff so I would need to make it posi. What's a good posi? How much? Can I put it in myself or should I take it to the shop. I'm a good mechanic, but I've never worked on a rearend. I figure it can't be that hard. Thanks for any suggestions and help.

Brad...


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1986 SC Camaro
Mods: Threw 2.8 in garbage, put in rebuilt
350 .060 over, XE268H Comp cam, Edlebrock
Performer Intake and Edlebrock 600 CFM Carb,
Pete Jackson noisy GearDrive (which sounded
cool for about 5 minutes, now I'm sick of it)
Rebuilt TH350, 3.42 Rear Gears. LCA RLB's.
B&M Mega Shifter.

 

If it's not out of a third gen then it's not really worth trying to get it to work. You need some way of attaching the torque arm. If it's built for a third gen then there will be a mounting pad cast into the housing for the torque arm.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 481.6
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

Thanks. I was wondering how I could get that on there. Couldn't I just weld something onto that? Or is it even worth bothering with?

Brad.

 

The housing is cast iron. There's a lot of torque forces applied to the mount. If you look at the mount that Moser uses on their diff, you will see how heavy and strong it is. To be able to weld something like that onto a factory diff wouldn't be a good option. After welding steel to cast (if possible) you would need to have the housing checked to see if it warped because to weld cast iron you need to heat it up cherry red before welding.