got handling......?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,298
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From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Chevy Cavalier
Engine: 2.2
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: it's part of the transmission
got handling......?
just wanted to let everyone know that my ultimate suspension mods are done. it wasn't that hard after I screwed some things up and then had to go back and do it again. so if anyone is doing these types of mods and using these parts,feel free to ask any questions. (please no e-mails, b/c my mail box is always over it's size limit according to "system admin.")
this is how it all began: '84 Trans Am all stock suspension, 15x7" firebird 20-slot rims w/pirelli formula gt 235/15/65 tires(NTB econo all weathers),I ended up with (in order of install) 16x8" "one stripe" IROC rims w/KHUMO ectsta 245/16/50 Z-rated tires (economy performance),Hotchkis rear control arms and adjustable panhard rod,Eibach Pro-kit springs 1.5" lower,KYB GR-2 gas struts,caster/camber plates & shocks,PST front-end rebuild (polygraphite bushings,ball joint's,tie rod links,same sway bars 1.25" & 7/8",fuzzy dice. I can honestly say this combo kicks a$$!...exept for the fuzzy dice,they didn't seem to help much,waste of $5! I did plan on using Konis and bridgestone tires,but I'm glad I didn't for now. the Khumo's are pretty good tires even though i had never heard of them before,the car will corner so well I can't see any need to make it better. I'm still getting used to the feel of this because the car stays almost level going into the hardest curves and no tire squeel....it seems so unreal because of all the times I've had close calls with the stock suspension pushing it like that.I still haven't done the LCA relocation brackets but I don't dragrace,before I lowered it was nearly impossible to break loose with a rearend consiting of 3.73 auburn posi,245 tires,hochkis pieces. the difference in LCA angle allows wheel spin under heavy acceleration,still only if your intending on it to happen. 2nd gear breaks loose easier too,I actually like this because it's fun and looks bad a$$. some day I will do the LCA brackets,rear sway bar bushings,torque arm and mount,install my hotchkis frame connectors. since the tires cost me so much,I try to lay off the cornering,but......it's so hard to resist! does anyone know of an auto-x track around eastern VA where I can give this thing a run? I'd rather keep it legal than have to deal with these pesky VA cops.
install tips and some tools needed: you don't need a spring compessor to put the springs in (or take them out) just use a good floor jack and be careful,use electrical tape to tape the new spring isloators on to the top of the spring (flat side of eibach springs) and make sure they STAY in position when raising the control arm!!! (also,connect the spindal to the ball joint asap,so you don't have a leathal compressed spring lurking in your work space all day) another note on this,the front spring isolators should be replaced,I couldn't find aftermarket ones,I had to use rubber ones from the dealer,forget about the rear ones,they are just big chunks of hard rubber,most likely re-usable.
the bushings and ball joints should be done by the pros,I did mine myself,but those are just one of those things you have to ask yourself "why do it when someone else can for you?" .
a white crayon worked good to mark the strut plates and tie rod threads,the drive back to the alighnment shop wasn't as hairy as people say it is,my alighnment was almost perfect besides the 1.5" drop.
sway bar links: 1/2" wrench or socket,1/2" deep impact socket (really speeds up the job) PST uses 13mm,
strut to spindal 15/16" bolts,control arms 18mm,a deep 18mm helps too but you can't fit an impact gun in there. if you have the tools,do the work yourself,these parts cost enough!!
the tie rods will seperate with a light tap with a hammer,while the spindal rest on a spare jackstand. a pickle fork with a small 1/2"ish spread (just enough to fit around the ball joint bolt) is need for the ball joint. this is best done with the bushings still attached,hammering on it towards the inside of the car. the PST kit has new dust boots so have no mercy on the old ones!!
and be carefull not to strip the strut mount bolts,I had to "borrow" a wishbone brace from the JY,just more time wasted.
check your cotter pins!! I drove away in one piece..but I could see this happening. one of those things to be extra watchful for.
I haven't had to adjust the panhard bar,I just can't tell the difference with only a 1.5" drop. no squeeks from the bushings either!
[This message has been edited by junkyarddog (edited July 24, 2001).]
this is how it all began: '84 Trans Am all stock suspension, 15x7" firebird 20-slot rims w/pirelli formula gt 235/15/65 tires(NTB econo all weathers),I ended up with (in order of install) 16x8" "one stripe" IROC rims w/KHUMO ectsta 245/16/50 Z-rated tires (economy performance),Hotchkis rear control arms and adjustable panhard rod,Eibach Pro-kit springs 1.5" lower,KYB GR-2 gas struts,caster/camber plates & shocks,PST front-end rebuild (polygraphite bushings,ball joint's,tie rod links,same sway bars 1.25" & 7/8",fuzzy dice. I can honestly say this combo kicks a$$!...exept for the fuzzy dice,they didn't seem to help much,waste of $5! I did plan on using Konis and bridgestone tires,but I'm glad I didn't for now. the Khumo's are pretty good tires even though i had never heard of them before,the car will corner so well I can't see any need to make it better. I'm still getting used to the feel of this because the car stays almost level going into the hardest curves and no tire squeel....it seems so unreal because of all the times I've had close calls with the stock suspension pushing it like that.I still haven't done the LCA relocation brackets but I don't dragrace,before I lowered it was nearly impossible to break loose with a rearend consiting of 3.73 auburn posi,245 tires,hochkis pieces. the difference in LCA angle allows wheel spin under heavy acceleration,still only if your intending on it to happen. 2nd gear breaks loose easier too,I actually like this because it's fun and looks bad a$$. some day I will do the LCA brackets,rear sway bar bushings,torque arm and mount,install my hotchkis frame connectors. since the tires cost me so much,I try to lay off the cornering,but......it's so hard to resist! does anyone know of an auto-x track around eastern VA where I can give this thing a run? I'd rather keep it legal than have to deal with these pesky VA cops.
install tips and some tools needed: you don't need a spring compessor to put the springs in (or take them out) just use a good floor jack and be careful,use electrical tape to tape the new spring isloators on to the top of the spring (flat side of eibach springs) and make sure they STAY in position when raising the control arm!!! (also,connect the spindal to the ball joint asap,so you don't have a leathal compressed spring lurking in your work space all day) another note on this,the front spring isolators should be replaced,I couldn't find aftermarket ones,I had to use rubber ones from the dealer,forget about the rear ones,they are just big chunks of hard rubber,most likely re-usable.
the bushings and ball joints should be done by the pros,I did mine myself,but those are just one of those things you have to ask yourself "why do it when someone else can for you?" .
a white crayon worked good to mark the strut plates and tie rod threads,the drive back to the alighnment shop wasn't as hairy as people say it is,my alighnment was almost perfect besides the 1.5" drop.
sway bar links: 1/2" wrench or socket,1/2" deep impact socket (really speeds up the job) PST uses 13mm,
strut to spindal 15/16" bolts,control arms 18mm,a deep 18mm helps too but you can't fit an impact gun in there. if you have the tools,do the work yourself,these parts cost enough!!
the tie rods will seperate with a light tap with a hammer,while the spindal rest on a spare jackstand. a pickle fork with a small 1/2"ish spread (just enough to fit around the ball joint bolt) is need for the ball joint. this is best done with the bushings still attached,hammering on it towards the inside of the car. the PST kit has new dust boots so have no mercy on the old ones!!
and be carefull not to strip the strut mount bolts,I had to "borrow" a wishbone brace from the JY,just more time wasted.
check your cotter pins!! I drove away in one piece..but I could see this happening. one of those things to be extra watchful for.
I haven't had to adjust the panhard bar,I just can't tell the difference with only a 1.5" drop. no squeeks from the bushings either!
[This message has been edited by junkyarddog (edited July 24, 2001).]
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 438
Likes: 1
From: state of confusion
Car: '08 Mustang GT
Engine: 4.6L
Transmission: º º 0 . . . |-|-|
Axle/Gears: 8.8", 3.55
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by junkyarddog:
. . . I try to lay off the cornering, but......it's so hard to resist! does anyone know of an auto-x track around eastern VA where I can give this thing a run? I'd rather keep it legal than have to deal with these pesky VA cops. . .</font>
. . . I try to lay off the cornering, but......it's so hard to resist! does anyone know of an auto-x track around eastern VA where I can give this thing a run? I'd rather keep it legal than have to deal with these pesky VA cops. . .</font>
PSCC (Peninsula Sports Car Club, Newport News/Hampton?)
AMSC (Andiamo Motor Sports Club, Newport News?)
TSCC (Tidewater Sports Car Club Norfolk/Va. Beach?)
Beach Ford Mustang Club
Norm
------------------
1979 Malibu w/some cornering tweaks and a few other interesting things