Worn steering componants
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Worn steering componants
So I have a warn pitman arm and worn left tie rod my steering doesnt feel solid.
What are the main things to go about fixing this I have replaced both and it looks like my alighnment changes due to left tie rod popping on hard turns.
Already got under my car and checked everything out.
How much will it cost to buy these parts and how should I aproch this?
What are the main things to go about fixing this I have replaced both and it looks like my alighnment changes due to left tie rod popping on hard turns.
Already got under my car and checked everything out.
How much will it cost to buy these parts and how should I aproch this?
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,337
Likes: 71
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: Worn steering componants
The Pitman arm doesn't wear, although the joint where it attaches to the center link WILL wear.
There's little point in replacing 20+ year old parts one by one. Replace everything one time and send it to the alignment shop once.
Disconnect the center link from the Pitman arm and Idler arm and the outer tie rods from the spindles. Take everything out as one unit, measure the length and re-assemble with new tie rods and a new centerlink. Re-use your adjuster sleeves if they're in good shape-although new ones are relatively inexpensive. Re-install the centerlink/tie rod assembly, lube all the fittings and drive carefully to the nearest alignment shop.
You don't need the high dollar Moog stuff for a daily driver.
tie rods should cost ~$20 each x 4 =$80
centerlink should cost ~$50
alignment~$50
Check the condition of the Idler Arm. If it has any play up and down on the arm when you yank it, replace it. A new one should be installed at the same height as the old one (level with the Pitman Arm).
Check the condition of the Strut Mounts before having it aligned. Visually inspect and have someone turn the wheel while you observe them. Any tears or damage in the rubber are cause for replacement. If you get it aligned with bad ones, you'll just have to re-do it later.
Ball joints can be replaced if needed. Swapping ball joints won't require an alignment.
There's little point in replacing 20+ year old parts one by one. Replace everything one time and send it to the alignment shop once.
Disconnect the center link from the Pitman arm and Idler arm and the outer tie rods from the spindles. Take everything out as one unit, measure the length and re-assemble with new tie rods and a new centerlink. Re-use your adjuster sleeves if they're in good shape-although new ones are relatively inexpensive. Re-install the centerlink/tie rod assembly, lube all the fittings and drive carefully to the nearest alignment shop.
You don't need the high dollar Moog stuff for a daily driver.
tie rods should cost ~$20 each x 4 =$80
centerlink should cost ~$50
alignment~$50
Check the condition of the Idler Arm. If it has any play up and down on the arm when you yank it, replace it. A new one should be installed at the same height as the old one (level with the Pitman Arm).
Check the condition of the Strut Mounts before having it aligned. Visually inspect and have someone turn the wheel while you observe them. Any tears or damage in the rubber are cause for replacement. If you get it aligned with bad ones, you'll just have to re-do it later.
Ball joints can be replaced if needed. Swapping ball joints won't require an alignment.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
