When I go around a curve the front will stick to the pavement but somtimes the backend will come around a little to easy, it used to not do this? I think it started to do it after the rear lca where installed.

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

I had herb Adam adjustable ones with the rod ends, they were a bit noisy on the street but they made a difference in the way the car felt, I now have the hotckis (sp) boxed ones with the poly bushings in both ends. I am not sure what you mean by how I go into a corner. The rest of my mods are below. Thanks

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

The way to stop it from doing that I found out myself with tinkering around:

A smaller diameter sway bar helps a bit, really only to fine-tune the rear.

The thing that helped the most is going to a set of lower rate rear springs, something in the 150lb/in range. I went from Guldstrand progressives to a set of Ground Control adjustable springs (150lb/in rate) and it was like night and day. The car is a lot less apt to kick the rear out and also rides a lot better. As a matter of fact, driving the car fast makes you think the front end is gonna slide first, but push on the gas more and it feels a lot better (and is a lot faster too). I have rear control arms and panhard rod along with the mentioned springs, stock torque arm on a Strange 12 bolt rear (a lot heavier than stck). I can't wait to see what improvements an aftermarket torque arm will make.

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Paul Huryk, billionare in training.
Monkey Guy Racing
Almost part of the moderately infamous NJ in-your-face all goomba crew

Do it right the first time.

Paul's home page

1985 IROC LG4 POS Best: 15.20s at 92.1mph
1984 Camaro 350 LG4 Best: 12.21s at 121.7mph

The smart person pays for something today so that more is received tomorrow.
The ignorant person gets something today and hopes to have enough money to pay for it tomorrow.

 

btt

 

Is it oversteer or "throttle induced oversteer"?

If it's oversteer but not due to rear wheelspin by throttle application what was said above is a good theory to work with. For oversteer (loose condition) soften the rear of the suspension of stiffen the front. Do exactly the opposite for understeer.

If it's just a "fishtail" due to the rear wheels spinning then you gotta modulate the throttle a bit. Or you could throw that mondo sig of yours into the back of the car for a little weight (and only post it once in a thread so there's less clutter...please)

At any rate, you gotta get the rear end to stick better. That's usually accomplished by softening the rear end or stiffening the front.

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Clem
SCCA TransAm Series Race Mechanic/CrewChief
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1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, NO T-tops, (unfortunately) Auto Transmission (hopefully not for long)

 

New posi in the rear will help alot.

 

what does btt mean??

i see that alot but i dont know what it means