I lowered my car with eibachs pro kit and now the control arms are not positoned correctly so I get major wheel hop I was going to get spohns relocation brackets and spohns adjustable tubular control arms, but then I was reading on the global west website that polyurethane bushings on both ends are bad for regular driving. will the setup I was going to go with work or should I try something else. Also I am trying to get more traction not just get rid of the wheel hop.
thanks in advance everyone
thanks in advance everyone
Member
Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Camarokid01:
I lowered my car with eibachs pro kit and now the control arms are not positoned correctly so I get major wheel hop I was going to get spohns relocation brackets and spohns adjustable tubular control arms, but then I was reading on the global west website that polyurethane bushings on both ends are bad for regular driving. will the setup I was going to go with work or should I try something else. Also I am trying to get more traction not just get rid of the wheel hop.
thanks in advance everyone</font>
The relo brackets should get rid of the wheel hop, but for street use you should use the holes that keep the LCA's closest to level. That should noticeably increase launch traction over your current condition (where the LCA's are almost certainly pointing down from the axle ends) <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Camarokid01:
I lowered my car with eibachs pro kit and now the control arms are not positoned correctly so I get major wheel hop I was going to get spohns relocation brackets and spohns adjustable tubular control arms, but then I was reading on the global west website that polyurethane bushings on both ends are bad for regular driving. will the setup I was going to go with work or should I try something else. Also I am trying to get more traction not just get rid of the wheel hop.
thanks in advance everyone</font>
At the strip, you could swap to the lower set of holes for even more traction. This extra traction comes with a downside; that gives the car some rear axle roll oversteer ("loose"), which is not advisable for hard cornering or even normal street driving (particularly if you encounter bad weather or slippery roads).
What you've read on the GW site is good info. With poly bushings in both ends and especially with a boxed or tubular LCA, everything binds up as the car rolls in a turn and you are starting to make the rear axle become a huge rear antiroll bar. Oversteer again. There are two lengthy threads over at www.camaroz28.com that dealt with this very subject. Look for the one titled "LCA's binding" (4 pages, almost 100 posts) and another one "LCA flexibility". Searching on the term "LCA" should find both of them. Due to their length you might prefer to print them out.
Norm
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1979 Malibu w/some cornering tweaks and a few other interesting things
[This message has been edited by Norm Peterson (edited September 26, 2001).]