resurface my disks? new pads? If I resurface do I need new pads? What kinda pads do you recommend; organic, semi-metallic or full metallic? Should I replace all my lines with DOT approved braided? Any suggestions for good rotor braking? I'm looking to get great braking without any nose-dives... I'd at least like to fix this vibration pull

BTW, it doesn't vibrate all the time, and supposedly the guy before me did a full brake job and wheel bearings, but the bearings squeel and so do my brakes on occassion...

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

Resurface the rotors and install new brake pads. I would use semi-metallic. I like Bendix. Go with what your budget and driving habits allow. Bleed the brake system to elminate the possibility of any bubbles. The pulsing and pulling is from the pads hitting high spots of the rotor and giving you uneven braking across the front rotors. If you are going to change the lines now is the time to do it since you should bleed the system anyway and you would have to if you change the lines. The car shouldn't nose dive. If it does then your struts and shocks are bad.

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87 TA, 305 TPI, Custom CAI, ACCEL 8mm wires,ACCEL Super-coil, ACCEL Plugs, JET TPI Airfoil, Cherry Bomb Muffler
"35 yr old helo pilot
with a cool new toy my 17 yr old son wants" The Phoenix Project..click to see my project car
Trans Am stuff and GIRLS, GIRLS, GIRLS!!!!!

 

I would replace the rotors instead of resurfacing them. The cost of replacement rotors is low. It also gives you a chance to replace the wheel bearing/race and seal easier.

Dale

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1986 FireBird
2.8L MPFI
1/2 CAI
Gutted Cat, No muffler
Was 700-R4 --> Now T5
**** Great cars aren't bought, they're built ****

 

Sweet guys, thanks for the info!!! I will certainly do all that you mentioned once my budget allows...

 

Another vote on replacement rotors instead of having them turned. Turned rotors usually develop the 'shake' within a few weeks or so. Shouldn't have to bleed any air out of the system when you install brakes, unless you open the system for some reason. The nosedive is your suspension.


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

the pull is caused usually by a bad line .. could be a stuck caliper too .. the flexable lines in front go out all the time .. the pull is from your good brake pulling in that direction .. the warping , at that point , is caused from stopping with only one brake set :\ !!! I'd just do the minimum brake job and take a deep breath and wait for Spohn to get the 1LE stuff ..spend your good money on a good fix ..if you plan on keeping the car and going faster