Are there any? When I say cheap, I mean, say under $100.00.

The extent of my knowledge and experience with brakes is very limited, I've changed pads and I've changed some shoes on a couple of different cars before. That's about it.

So any tricks, ideas or modifications that are perhaps free or cheap?

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http://www.gruveb.com/z28

 

well you could always drill the rotors yourself , but I woldn't recommend it. For $100 brakes are not the best way to spend it. Save it for something else, or save it for Baers or something.

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'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei distributer
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension
PST front polygraphite suspension
"speed kills. buy a f@&d, live forever."

 

hey,

I'd just get it back up to spec in the brake department first. People will bad mouth the brakes all day long, but they simply aren't that bad stock (for daily driving at reasonable speeds and such). Pull everything apart and replace parts as needed. Turn the drums and rotors and install new pads and shoes. I can wear out the parts house lifetime pads in a little over a year or so (I like to stop fast).

Get it into good working order and you shouldn't need to upgrade for a little while. $100 or so should just about get you there .

Clem

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Clem
SCCA TransAm Series Race Mechanic/CrewChief
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1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, NO T-tops, (unfortunately) Auto Transmission (hopefully not for long)

 

I saw a tech article somewhere, a long long time ago, about making brake ducting. It cools the rotor/pads and helps out aggressive braking. Basically, the guy went to Home Depot, and picked up some clear diameter hose (used for hot tubs and swimming pools), probably around an inch in diameter. He led two pieces to go from the air dam to the wheels. At the wheels, he pointed the hose to the inside of the brake rotor.

I remember he had to cut the ends of the hoses (at the wheels) in an inverted "V" shape. The reason was this: He attached the hoses to the chassis (somehow), and if the steering wheel was turned, the hoses would hit the rotors.

Also, for a low-buck-er, you could gravity-flush your brake system with new fluid. Scoop out a ton of old fluid from the master cylinder (but leave a bit at the bottom to keep the ports covered). Use a clean lint-free rag to wipe the dirt off the inside wall of the m/c. Fill the m/c with new fluid. Crack the bleeder screws one at a time at the wheels (starting at the rear right, then rear left, then front right, and finally the front left) until clear fluid runs out. Don't pump the brake pedal or you might suck air into the system... let Gravity do the work.

You could also replace the caliper mounting bolts and "slides" (rubber grommets the mounting bolts go thru). Make sure you lube those slides with a silicon lube, like dielectric (for spark plug wires).

You could also replace those +17 year old brake hoses with new ones. Those oldies are slowly deteriorating away inside, and eventually, if a hose doesn't split on you, it'll clog internally, and send you on a wild ride when you hit the brakes (car will jerk one way and then the other, due to the delay of brake fluid getting to the caliper when you hit the pedal, and then the delay of the fluid leaving the caliper when you release the pedal). Did I say "could"? I meant "should replace". Dont' forget the rear body-to-axle hose!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Doesn't an aftermarket company make replacements for the hoses that are actually metal instead of rubber? I think someone told me he had made that upgrade and it had made a world of difference.

Clem and Tom both....good way to start by making sure that the foundation items are in good working order.


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http://www.gruveb.com/z28

 

yes in fact you can order them from summit either earl's or russel. they are braides steel and are $71.95. you see rubber lines flex and can bulge out so the braided steel have better pressure in the lines

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87 IROC-Z
305 AUTO 2.73 OPEN REAR, T-TOPS, GUTTED AIRBOX, HOME MADE RAM AIR, AIRFOIL, UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS, ACCEL CAP & ROTOR, ACCEL COIL, TPIS WIRES, BOSCH PLATINUM PLUGS, JUST HIT 80,000 MILES

 

if you have a front disk/rear drum, stepping up the to Firebird WS-6 4 wheel disk setup will be your best bang for the buck, the stock systems are pretty damn good, and if you can find a junked one your in luck!