Well the 86 will be back on the ground soon hopefully monday but I wanted to see what should I add or brand recommendations on what to upgrade and some parts I am weary about buying. First up as it stands.

Koni Yellows 4/4
Intrax 2' Springs
WS6 Sway Bars W/ ES End Links and Bushings
Moog Centerlink, Idler, Tie-Rods, Sleeves and Ball Joints.
Iroc Steering Brace (Wonderbar)
Front Control Arms W/ Global West Bushings.
Founders LCA & Panhard Bar Non-Adjustable


I still have stock Torque Arm setup, No Relocation brackets, Stock strut mounts and stock steering box and ofcourse no SFCs.

I have a few questions though,

1. I will be replacing the Founders items since those were if I recall the first items I even purchased back in the day since the stock panhard was bent and Founders prices were very appealing back then. I know I need an Adjustable PHB, My question is for a Street driven car what will be the choice of end bushings? Of course I know to go adjustable to center out the differential.

2. Are adjustable LCA's needed or gonna be of use to be specific?

3. Relocation brackets are next on my to buy list of course, any objection or census on which to go with? I would love bolt on ones for now (I assume most are anyways) but I plan to weld when I pickup a welder in the next few months.

4. Strut mounts, once again any that reign over all the others?

5. Same goes with SFC's as with #4. Car is a hardtop if that counts into anything.

6. I have been eyeballing UMI's 2217s Torque Arm setup. Any Objections?

7. Finally my steering box, This one is stock to the 86. Steering feels nice and tight with it (Car only had 88k before I messed with it) would a upgrade to a Iroc/WS6 be suggested? Or leave it be?


That is pretty much all of my questions for now. I have yet decided to pick tires since I have no even decided what wheels to go with, but assume I will make a good choice. As far as my plans its basically a street driven car that I plan to take to the car and learn from it.

 

I would bother changing out the gear box unless you happen to come across one for almost nothing. Yes the quicker ratio is nice but if everything is tight then I would not spend the money/time swapping out the box.

Definitely go with the adjustable PHB like you are already planning to re center the rearend. The adjustable LCAs are not necessary unless you plan on eventually changing out the rear, or running slicks or similar. They are not needed for just lowering the car so if its going to be mostly a DD you don't need the adjustable. but it is always nice to have. Though whatever LCA you get I would recommend at the least a poly bushing on one side and a stock rubber on the other, but the better option would be a poly/roto-joint or similar combo so your diff can move free of binding issues.

SFC is really all about preference. I prefer the tubular 3 point designs personally. Some would recommend inners (alstons) and outers (any brand) but the inners are not needed and its a back and forth argument whether the inners help stiffen anymore. Some say yes, others say not worth it..
Relocation brackets you want with a lowered ride. Bolt ons are fine, you can always tach/weld them in later when you get your welder.

The TA your looking at is a nice choice. Take the stresses of hard launches off the tranny and mount it to the x-member.

As for the Strut mounts. J&M makes a really nice piece with a "replaceable teflon lined spherical bearing for a noise free quality ride."

 

Hi Carlos. Street driven cars work great with adjustable PHB's with poly bushings. The poly is much stiffer than rubber. For that extra tiny bit better than poly, we off the Roto-Joint ends.

Adjustable LCA's help if you need to align the differential to be completely square, if your chassis is off a tiny bit, if the rear is tweaked at all, etc.

Good plan for the relocation brackets. Ours are bolt-on and then can be welded later for extra insurance.

We build a pretty sweet strut mount setup which is practically bulletproof.

Our 2217 is an industry leader and also offers instant center adjustment and a driveshaft loop. Bolt on and go!

Our test car, an '89 IROC has all this stuff on it and is fought over all the time by the shop guys. It's been hammered within an inch of it's life (including a front fender damage, but we won't talk about that).

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...=index&cPath=6

To answer your question with a summary, we can hook you up. Our Christmas sale is on until tomorrow. Give us a call to discuss.

ramey

 

are you sure, sounds like story time....

 

Let's just say, have you ever met Jerry our other engineer?...

 

i have heard of this Jerry... :gets popcorn: