I purchased the Eibach sportline spring kit, lowering my car 1.6" in front and 1.3" in back (minus the difference from the wear on the old factory springs). I already got the adjustable panhard bar, and I plan to make my own Relocation brackets for the lower control arms (LCARBS), but my biggest question is concerning the front of the car.

Will I need the caster/Camber plates to lower the front 1.6"? Or will I be able to get away with aligning it with the factory style mounts?

Also, If anyone has a template for the LCARBS, that would save me A LOT of time!!
Thanks!

 

Your front end should align just fine...Mine did & I'm lower than that. And LCARBs are not required after lowering.

 

I was under the impression that if the car is lowered enough where the rear of the LCA's were higher, (over horizontal, which a set of Pro Kits will probably do), than the fronts, LCARBS were a good addition as rear traction would be adversely affected.

 

Depends on your right foot. I don't drag race so it is of no concern for me, not on the road.

Drop your car & then decide if you need the extra traction. If so? Put LCARBs on/get better or wider tires. LCARBs are certainly not required items. I'm certainly lower than the 1.3" you say you'll get & mine doesn't bother me any.

 

I guess it'll make it easier to show off in a parking lot, but tougher to show off on the highway!!
But I got a great simple template for the LCARBS just in case.

What do you think about the adjustable torque arm? Is that necessary lowering the rear only 1.3" (of course that's just what they say, may not even get any lower than an inch, because my tires are an inch taller than factory, which would raise my axle a half inch)

I think I'm sold on just aligning it with the factory strut mounts, really don't want to shell out too much money if I don't need to right now.

 

now that I think about it... would tire size even make a difference with the instant center of the LCA's?
will taller tires make your tires want to hop because it makes the LCA point downwards? If I'm thinking correctly, would'nt you need LCARBS if you put on some HUGE tires? (hypethetically speaking, most people with that big of tire will have other mods I'm sure)

 

adjustable torque arm is not neccesary for a street car, it will help you reset the pinion angle after you lower the car but it will barely affect the car, all you need is an adjustable panhard bar and the lcarb if you need them, but drive the car first, then decide.

and read the stickied threads, they have all this info in them.

 

If your referring to that hand drawn pdf file sketch posted in another thread, I'd call it FAR from great. Hell, I'd hardly call it useable, because I've seen a MUCH MUCH better layout done in MSPaint.

 

I wasn't looking at the drawing... I'm looking at dimensions and measurements. he told me exactly where the center of the holes are, and general dimensions of the width and whatnot.

I printed it out and it's not even to scale, but like I said, I can create my own as long as I have an idea of where the holes are supposed to be.

 

Here is my edit of that drawing, but using 3/16" steel. And I did not include a mounting point that goes to the (strut mount I believe, could be mistaken). the top part of the one view was cut off due to the size of the paper I'm using with my CAD program.

Let me know what ya think!

 

Much better, although it has some missing measurements.

 

I realized that when I took a second look at them. I ended up breaking it down into 3 separate drafts, 1 of them to tell exactly where and what size the holes are, and 2 to show just the outlines and their measurements. Putting it all on one piece of paper is outrageous, even when I eliminate the unnecessary yet beneficial measurements.

Using 3/16 isn't overkill is it?

 

My Spohn LCARB mounts main walls were built from 3/8". And an additional 3/16" inner wall added under the stock mount where the LCAs mount, for a 9/16" total thickness in the lower section.

 

Holy crap... that's pretty heavy duty.