Hey I was given a 10 point MS cage with the swing out pieces for the doors when I bought my car. I know I don't need a 10 point cage. I want to use part of it and just make a 6 point cage (main bar behind the seat, two angled back and two angled downward past the doors).

I'm looking for mid 10's on the bottle, 11's on motor. The car already has 2 driveshaft safety loops, scatter shield, and I have two certified 5 point harnesses. Am I forgetting anything?

I'd like to weld the cage in while I still have the interior torn apart for the next 2-3 weeks.

Does anybody have a website for specifications of how the cage needs to sit in the car (distance from all around driver/doors/etc)? Does a cage in a 10.00 or slower car need to be certified or inspected? What about the harnesses; how are they supposed be secured?

 

The roll bar doesnt need to be certified...only cages 9.99 and faster.

Mount the harnesses to the roll bar behind seat.

2 dshaft loops?? Lol ok

Youll need a copy of the nhra rulebook for specs.

 

I've got two loops for my driveshaft. Front loop is mandatory but if I manage to have a rear u-joint fail, I don't want the driveshaft coming through the floor behind me.

There are no specific rules as to where the tubes need to be mounted because every car is different. Buy a rulebook or search online. IHRA rules are available online for everyone and for things like roll bar/cages, the rules are the same as NHRA. Unless things have changed, you need to be an NHRA member to view their rulebook online.

Mainly, the main hoop must be within a specific distance from the helmet. The door bars must pass between your shoulder and elbow. Since our cars do not have full frames, the tubes must be welded onto 1/8" thick plates that are 6" x 6" that are welded to the floor. The plates do not have to sit flat but must have 24" of weld holding them to the sheetmetal.

If you have a cage kit but only wish to install it as a 6 point roll bar, it won't be legal for use quicker than 11.50. A 6 point roll bar is made from 1-3/4" tubing. A full cage only needs to use 1-5/8" tubing for all the main tubes. If what you have is only 1-5/8" tubing, you'll need to install the halo bars and a-pillar bars to be able to use it at the track even if you're not fast enough to need it. A proper 6 point roll bar is good to 10.0 as long as the floor or firewall have not been modified. If you don't run quicker than 10.0 then a full cage does not need to be certified although tech will still inspect it to make sure it's installed correctly.

If you're only going to be on the street then a 1-5/8" tube 6 point bar is fine other than it's just dead weight.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll have to measure it because it looks pretty big. I'd hate to have to install the entire cage because it is overkill.

 

My advice from being around drag racing since I was young, put in the 10 point and forget the 6. For a few reasons, 1) you have a 10 point so why not put it in. 2) extra safety is never a bad thing especially when you have the parts 3) Do it now rather than in the future (if you go with a bigger motor in a few years you dont want to have to tear it apart to add additional NHRA requirements). If it were me I would put in the full 10 point cage. If you are bracket racing the car and you run in pro (non electronics), you could potentially be running cars in the low 9's. God forbid if anything happens, at least you have a little bit of added strength. As for the diagram, I would call S&W race cars, they should be able to provide a diagram of how it should go. I bought my cage from them and it came with a diagram and directions. As for the certification part, I would suggest getting the roll cage certed because it increases the value and can definately make tech easier down the road