Fast72ss

I think I need adjustable front struts. My car has full adjustable tubular rear suspension tubular a-arms, tubular K member but the front doest move at all at the track. 2,500 clutch dump and it bogs 3,000 and it goes up in smoke. Best 60' so far is 1.96 and went 12.40 at 115. Car weighs 2,960 and Im running drag radials. Ive never had a car that wouldnt hook like this but im not used to third gens. I am assuming I need adjustable front struts but not sure what the options are.

UnstableAviator

Drag radials with a manual trans? Well, there's your problem. A good set of stiff wall slicks will do more for your sixty foot that an entire catalog of suspension products. Obviously you'd need a good setup from clutch to rearend to handle the applied power though.

AlkyIROC

How old are the tires? Tires used on the street dry out quickly and will not get sticky when heated up for the track.

What was the track prep like? If walking up on the starting line doesn't try to pull your shoes off your feet then you'll normally spin off the line.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Yep drag radilas and sticks don't mix.

Swaybars? Front one connected?

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

slicks and V6 coils in the rear are a good cheap way to get some traction Mike...


Thirdgens hook up pretty well!

Fast72ss

Hey whats up man! Tires are brand new but I guess I'll go to the old ET STreet bias ply tires. Front sway bar is off.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

/T® Pro Drag Radials are the fastest Drag tires on the strip! The radial design allows for less rolling resistance for better ET's. Radial slicks will give you the edge over the competition!

■Radial Construction for Less Rolling Resistance
■Zero Growth for Predictable Gear Ratios
■Compounded For Maximum Traction
■Works best with Auto Trans Applications

AlkyIROC

That's great if you only use them at the strip and not on the street. Can you also justify the increased cost of a drag radial slick? If you're in a class race where every possible advantage makes you just a little bit faster then yes, that's the way to go. If you're a typical weekend bracket racer who just needs some sticky tires then no. Regular slicks will do just fine a far less money.

The very soft rubber of a drag radial also wears out very quickly. Those who run them on the street can expect to get around 3000 miles life out of them. Want to change your tires every time you need to change your oil? That can get expensive very fast. Just because there's still rubber on the tires doesn't mean they're not worn out.

Get an extra set of rims. One set for your street tires, another set for your strip only tires.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

If you're asking me, sorry that's a quote from their website, I was just trying to show where they say not to use the radials with slicks.

I did not mean to promote them, I prefer the bias ply ets. I agree, I'd only use a radial if class required it.

skinny z

Here's a related story.
I finally got my new combo to the track and first pass was disappointing with a 60' of nearly 2.0.
With nearly 8 year old ET Streets (26 x 10.5) I figured that they might not have much left despite having less than 40 passes on them.
Working the tire pressures about 2 psi at a time, from 18 down to 12, each 60' improved. I also have Drag Bags and on the last pass, with a 10 psi pre-load on the right side, I managed a 1.7. While it's not in the territory and some of the posters here, it just demostrated to me how it takes some work to get the car to hook. This was a cool fall day (ambient air temp 10C/50F) and marginal track prep.
Nothing special in shocks (SensaTracs), and the only mods are LCA relocation brackets and an adjustable tubular torque arm.