Looking to -

Remove rear wheels, to get easy access

1)Install new panhard bar

2) install New lca's

3) install New rear sway bar bushings and end links

Now from what I have gathered is that the car's weight must be on the suspension... So the jack stands should be holding up the rear axle and NOT the frame... Correct?

Am I forgetting something? This seems like a pretty straight forward op.

 

Yes jack stands under the axle. But this is the standard jacking method anyway regardless of the work you're doing under there (of cusrse unless you were removing the rear end or droping the gas tank). I usually drive onto ramps in front and jack the rear end under the pumpkin (be carefull not to damage the rear end cover). Then slip the jack stands under the axle. Lower the jack enough to load the car onto the jacks.

Lon

 

Not necessary. An old wives' tale. (no disrepsect intended toward either old people or wives!!)

Lon's method is a good one; pretty much minimum effort. I'd suggest driving the rear up ont the ramps, jacking the pumpkin to lift the tires off the ramps, removing them and the ramps, and supporting the "frame" just in front of the LCA attach point with one pair of stands; then lowering the pumpkin until it hangs free (shocks fully extended), then jacking it back up a couple of inches to lift it off the shocks; then supporting the AXLE TUBES - not the pumpkin, not any of the brackets, not ANY OTHER PART besides THE AXLE TUBES - with another pr of stands. In that configuration, there is minimum force on everything.

I'd also suggest that once you get the car to that point, you've done 90% of the work of changing out the rear springs, and 80% of the work changing out the shocks; go ahead and do the other 10% and 20% respectively.

Do the LCAs one at a time; i.e. remove one, re-install; go to the other side, R&R. Don't take em both loose at the same time, that'll risk making extra work for yourself in getting everything lined back up.

And forget about the "suspension loaded" myth, for this job.

 

Well, it actually isn't an old wives tale. haha The suspension should be loaded to prevent bushing clocking.

Bushing clocking is a preload in the suspension that essentially increases roll rate/spring rate by building a level of resistance into the part at the point they were installed. Suspension can travel as much as 19-inches. If you install a part torqed down 19-inches away from the operating zone, it can result in a discrepancy in ride height because of the resistance. This is extremely crucial on front A-arms, rear control arms, and sway bar end links.

- Kevin

 

If the bushings are lubed properly, why would there be binding or clocking?