im going to be lowering my car with 2 inch lowering springs. what other parts do i need to buy to carry this out?? do i need an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear after lowering??? etc. i would like to know all the things i need to do to my car to do this. i know many will post just search it. i wouldnt be posting this if i have not already done so. im just looking for someone to straight up answer my questions not post a link or anything. can anyone help me out

 

*sigh*
Most of it answered in the top few threads on this board:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ing-101-a.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...arm-angle.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...nsion-how.html

But since you've already determined that you're too stubborn/ lazy to click the links and read them, here's the list:

-Adjustable Panhard bar, dozens of suppliers, pick a brand. Fixes wheel hop and re-centers axle. Try to get rod/rod or rod/poly
-Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets (often referred to as LCARB's), again lots of options, pick a brand. Not much to them, get a nice cheap stout looking piece and have them welded in. Cures wheel hop and traction issues.
-Raised strut mounts, J&M/ Founders or Spohn, adds strut travel and reduces strut deflection from stock rubber bushings
-Tubular Rear Lower Control arms aren't a bad idea, corrects wheel hop, like the panhard bar you want rod/poly or rod/rod ends to prevent bind. Lots of different brands offer them.
-Adjustable Torque Arm, corrects pinion angle, helps with traction/ wheel hop
-Possibly shave bump stops down if they hit regularly.

The main 3 are LCARB's, raised strut mounts and the adjustable panhard bar. If you're on a budget or putting it together slowly these will make the biggest corrections.

 

thanks man. big help and sorry i forgot to check the top of the board for the sticky before i posted, sorry for the trouble

 

do i still need those parts if i only go 1 inch drop?

 

You can get by without doing anything, even at a 2" drop, but raised strut mounts are a good idea as your stock ones are probably about shot anyway and they'll help put the struts back closer to their operating range, and the panhard bar will help align the rear so that the car doesn't "dog track." These won't be as pronounced with a 1" drop but those two things are worth it, even on a factory original car as the stock strut mounts aren't very good and the rear end probably isn't centered to begin with. The further from stock height you go the more you'll need them.

The aftermarket torque arm (expensive), lower control arms (not too bad), and LCARB's (cheap!) are mainly fixes for wheel hop and poor traction and mandatory on a drag car for a good launch. It won't hurt anything to drive the car without them, but if you get the springs on and the car is getting wheel hop on hard launches or when doing burnouts you'll want to address that because it's hard on the car and doesn't look or feel good. If you're drag racing or making over 250 RWHP you'll want everything mentioned, regardless of ride height. For daily driving, cruising or autocrossing the TA, LCAs and LCARB's will help handling and stiffen the car up but you don't need them unless you have wheel hop, in which case it would be best to start with the cheapest fix (LCARB's) and work on up until it's fixed.

 

Also don't forget one of the most important parts when you lower; alignment. When you lower the car your camber and caster will be out of whack, so make sure to go to a reputable alignment shop that can dial in custom specs. DON'T use GM stock specs, they're crap.. This has been discussed on here to death as well.. But here are "good" street specs:

Camber: -0.5 to -1.0 (both sides equal! I have -1.0* because I favor better handling and am sacrificing a tiny bit of inner tire wear but who cares I drive my car under 1000 miles a year)
Caster: As high as you can go on the passenger side, and then make the driver side 0.5* less. (I got 4.7* on the passenger side, and then put 4.2* on driver side)
Toe: 3/32* of TOE IN