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I run a small shot of N20 on my V6 camaro to assist my borg warner s366 to spool up off the line at the track. I also use a hobbs switch to deactivate the n20 at 8psi.
I have a low priced beginner kit. It's a nos sniper kit. I run 2 Edelbrock n20 solenoids in series and it's a wet kit so there is a sniper fuel solenoid also.
The question I have regards the n20 jets. I would assume it does not matter the number of cylinders to calculate hp jetting correct? Every chart I use to calculate says that a single .036 jet at 950psi gains about 55-60 or so bhp. But on the sniper install manual it says that's a 75 hp kick.
I've been using a .030 for awhile now and it's dialed in nice. Says it's suppose to be a 50 hp kick but yet again when using calculators it says a different story. I will admit, any jet I used under .030, I could barely feel it spool up the turbo let alone lower my 60 foots my more then .05.
So, any idea on why this sniper manual states the hp numbers it does? This was a 4/6 cyl kit. When i look at a 8 cyl kit by sniper the table is different and matches the calculators alot better.
The number of cylinders is irrelevant in a single jet system. The Sniper system is embellishing Brake Horsepower (BHP) in its' chart, which is theoretical, it is not calculated the same way Horsepower is like the way most nitrous jetting calculators are programmed to. At 43.5 fuel pressure, 950-psi nitrous pressure and single .036 jet, you will get 58.53 FWHP and 49.75 RWHP. The Sniper rating of 75 Horsepower using the same figures is a theoretical BHP calculation...
They added 5 Horsepower to the .026 jet, 10 Horsepower to the .030 jet and 15 Horsepower to the .036 jet. This was done to help sell the kit, and they can get away with it by quoting a BHP theoretical figure, which is approximate, but not actual. This was taken from one of Sniper's pdf files...;
@ streetlethal. Thanks man, that is what i figured. I was just confused when i looked at a chart the other day and compared it to my jets that I have and what i was using. This perfectly explains why the tiny .026 n20 jet i started with did barley anything. I upped it to the .030 and that helped a bit. I wanted to go to the .036 but started thinking, dang that's advertised 75 hp on there manual and that seems a bit much. Right now im just giving the car what it wants and matching the fueling to keep it happy. The n20 is literally enabled for about 2 seconds off the line then that s366 is moving and the n20 disables.
@89gta. Yea i got the timing pulled back a bit. I already had timing taken out of it for the boost and overall now i have 3 degrees more taken out then when I ran boost only and NO n20. My timing table is pretty conservative. For example at 6psi where the N20 would be active i have from 21-23* of total timing in the rpm areas I am using. At 14.5psi and no N20 im commanding about 18-19* of total timing.
well so far with no n20 to a 50 shot my 60 foots went from 2.2x to a 1.79. So its definitely picked up quite a bit so far. Helping that large turbo by far. But next week i may toss a 75 hp jet package in there and see what it does. If it picks up more then 1 tenth in the 60 foot ill have to back it back down because that will most definitely be a 11.49 or under as my best is a 11.64 with a 1.79 60 foot.
On my old setup before i stalled my converter up hogher to
Match the powerband better, i hit my car with a 75 off the line real quick, maybe 1 sec or so to light the snails. Worked very well
On my old setup before i stalled my converter up hogher to
Match the powerband better, i hit my car with a 75 off the line real quick, maybe 1 sec or so to light the snails. Worked very well
This so far is working pretty good. I may try the 75 shot this weekend. Right now its on the 50hp shot. I got a 3500 stall and that thing worked great on the old gt3582 but the new S366 is a tad big for the 6er. It doesnt start to spool till the stall which is damm near imposible to try and spool up at the line with the brakes and thats just hard on the trans. It makes command boost of 15psi i run now, at about 5000 rpms. Its freaking laggy for my small engine but its definitly efficient and when it goes, it goes quick.
Ill let ya guys know how it goes if i try to up it this weekend. If it works and drops my 60s more its cage territory and i dont have one so ill have to back it off. I need to install one this winter.
Also on the datalogs the n20 doesnt even last though the 60 foot. About 1.5 seconds of n20. I have it to turn off at 8psi on the hobbs switch.
I have a 3500 freakshow converter right now and there is no way i can even get clost to the stall speed at the line. It doesnt help that the all motor V6 at the line is not stalling as high as that converters rated. Keep in mind this 3.1L all motor is probly arround 160 170 Hp. The turbo is its life....haha. I cant hold that car much above 2700 rpm at the line and even when i do it leads to just horrid reaction times. Thats why the n20 so far helps so much. I can hold it at 2500 and just go and not worrie about pushing though the starting line and nail consistent 60 foots each time.
I would love to have a brake in the car. The th350 i have now though...well im not sure about its reliability with that in it. Alot of friends at the track dissagree with tossing a brake in a th350 but that doesnt mean its a fact that it will break. Actually the only reason i got such a good deal on this th350 is because the PO tossed a 400 in with a brake.
A brake would really get me off that line im sure of it. I still need to restal that converter up 500 or 1000 rpm. But a brake would make it a monster off the line im sure.
What is your guys opinions on a t brake in a th350 if its built well.
What is your guys opinions on a t brake in a th350 if its built well.
for ur power level i wouldnt worry about it , guys have been running transbrakes for years in th350's , hell im sticking one behind my motor for now but im also going to keep my boost turned down for the time being
Guess it may depend on the brake used...my whole transmission needed to be disassembled to install my brake
the huges brake is simple , remove valve body throw away all the check *****
remove the band and plug the band servo remove and discard the governor and vacum modulator/rod
low/reverse pack needs 5 clutches , and discard the lip seal inside the drum
the direct clutch pack.also gets 5 clutches . and replace the stock piston sprinsg with the new 14 springs supplied with the kit
the direct drum needs an .050 hole drilled in it as well
bolt up new valve body ( no check ***** ) and install the soiliniod and rod were the modulator used to go
if u need to cut the pistions for the extra clutch and steel u can cut them in a brake lathe , if u dont have a normal lathe
Ok well its definitly something i may do but might not be this winter as i need a rear end swap for a brake. This winter i need a cage asap and also bigger injectors. It suxs not being able to turn up the boost even if i wanted becasue im maxing out my 48lbs injectors at 14.5psi. But the up side is i nailed down a 11.59@119mph this weekend, broke that 7.5 1/8 mile hurdle and also ran one pass at 120mph. All at 14.5psi of boost.
Well we had my bach party this past weekend. Fun as i could have wanted. But on the drag racing part..... I got some new et PBs and a new trap speed goal finally meet. 120.xxmph! Finally.
Here is a few slips. One is the trap speed of 120mph. bad 60 foot....and laugh but i let off at like the 1200 foot area. It was pitch black at the end of the track at about 9:45 at night. I never raced at the trails before but it freaked me out having no lights down there and a short shut down and a huge wall of hay bails at the normal, sand area. It may have had a killer et or mph that night.
The other slip is the next morning. The n20 was purged just right there. 1.75 60 foot got me a 11.59. Still just using the 50 shot off the line. I didnt wana get ran out for going under 11.50.
the huges brake is simple , remove valve body throw away all the check *****
remove the band and plug the band servo remove and discard the governor and vacum modulator/rod
low/reverse pack needs 5 clutches , and discard the lip seal inside the drum
the direct clutch pack.also gets 5 clutches . and replace the stock piston sprinsg with the new 14 springs supplied with the kit
the direct drum needs an .050 hole drilled in it as well
bolt up new valve body ( no check ***** ) and install the soiliniod and rod were the modulator used to go
if u need to cut the pistions for the extra clutch and steel u can cut them in a brake lathe , if u dont have a normal lathe
you do have to tear it down , but it really is pretty simple , im willing to bet his trans already has the extra clutches , he prolly only needs to drill the .050 hole and remove the one lip seal
Nice passes!!! Making good power . Makes me hope my 305 can run like that on 15 psi
Thanks man. Means alot. Sometimes i see all of these 8 9 10 second turbo V8s and just think.... wow is my car slow compared to them. But im vested in this V6 now, so might as well keep pushing on till it doesnt go any faster.
Once I get the work done this winter to cage the car Ill then look into the rear end. That stuffs gotta come first. Im quite sure that with bigger fuel injectors allowing me to up the boost a little and actually let the turbo breath, it should nail down lower 11s in the cool air. Then i just need to work on the n20 some more. With a brake i can ditch all of the n20 but for now thats what is getting me off the line.
I really need to get a bottle heater asap. It really suxs heating it up in my DD with the heater on full blast, then tossing it in the car, leaving the windows up, and watching it all day to make sure its at the 900 950 sweet spot. Those early morning time trials are just a pain to get it warm. And im not a fan of a blow torch....that's why i heat it up in the car.
In about 3 weeks im going racing again and plan to mess with the n20 jets and see what sort of 60 foot i can get and also 1/8 mile. I know when im on a killer pass, for what i have, so i will have to only make half track passes to be sure i dont get ran outta the track for going to fast. But I would like to see some 1.60 60 foots again.
Dave ill ask by friend what all he did to that trans minus the full rebuild, full man RVB and so forth. He told me at one time but i have forgotten. I do know he ditched this th350 to me in favor of tossing a brake on his th400.
Thanks man. Means alot. Sometimes i see all of these 8 9 10 second turbo V8s and just think.... wow is my car slow compared to them. But im vested in this V6 now, so might as well keep pushing on till it doesnt go any faster.
Once I get the work done this winter to cage the car Ill then look into the rear end. That stuffs gotta come first. Im quite sure that with bigger fuel injectors allowing me to up the boost a little and actually let the turbo breath, it should nail down lower 11s in the cool air. Then i just need to work on the n20 some more. With a brake i can ditch all of the n20 but for now thats what is getting me off the line.
I really need to get a bottle heater asap. It really suxs heating it up in my DD with the heater on full blast, then tossing it in the car, leaving the windows up, and watching it all day to make sure its at the 900 950 sweet spot. Those early morning time trials are just a pain to get it warm. And im not a fan of a blow torch....that's why i heat it up in the car.
In about 3 weeks im going racing again and plan to mess with the n20 jets and see what sort of 60 foot i can get and also 1/8 mile. I know when im on a killer pass, for what i have, so i will have to only make half track passes to be sure i dont get ran outta the track for going to fast. But I would like to see some 1.60 60 foots again.
Dave ill ask by friend what all he did to that trans minus the full rebuild, full man RVB and so forth. He told me at one time but i have forgotten. I do know he ditched this th350 to me in favor of tossing a brake on his th400.
do u still have the other 7.5 rear housing? if not can u get one really cheap ?
u can get a ford 8.8 out of a ford exploder and cut the tubes off and weld the fbody tubes onto the 8.8 and drill 2 holes for the tq arm mount
u may need to have 2 adapter pieces machined to fit the 7.5 tubes but it wont cost much at all and that 8.8 would handle the transbrake and any power u could throw at it
i may actually build a jig here soon so i can start fabing those converted 8.8'sd
do u still have the other 7.5 rear housing? if not can u get one really cheap ?
u can get a ford 8.8 out of a ford exploder and cut the tubes off and weld the fbody tubes onto the 8.8 and drill 2 holes for the tq arm mount
u may need to have 2 adapter pieces machined to fit the 7.5 tubes but it wont cost much at all and that 8.8 would handle the transbrake and any power u could throw at it
i may actually build a jig here soon so i can start fabing those converted 8.8'sd
I still have the 7.5 in it and a extra stock gut one too. Would a mustang 8.8 work? Got one of those puppies too...it's a stocker also
Thanks man. Means alot. Sometimes i see all of these 8 9 10 second turbo V8s and just think.... wow is my car slow compared to them. But im vested in this V6 now, so might as well keep pushing on till it doesnt go any faster.
Once I get the work done this winter to cage the car Ill then look into the rear end. That stuffs gotta come first. Im quite sure that with bigger fuel injectors allowing me to up the boost a little and actually let the turbo breath, it should nail down lower 11s in the cool air. Then i just need to work on the n20 some more. With a brake i can ditch all of the n20 but for now thats what is getting me off the line.
I really need to get a bottle heater asap. It really suxs heating it up in my DD with the heater on full blast, then tossing it in the car, leaving the windows up, and watching it all day to make sure its at the 900 950 sweet spot. Those early morning time trials are just a pain to get it warm. And im not a fan of a blow torch....that's why i heat it up in the car.
You just need to get into some real boost and that thing will fly. If motor can hold it lol that i dont know anything about
@ streetlethal. Thanks man, that is what i figured. I was just confused when i looked at a chart the other day and compared it to my jets that I have and what i was using. This perfectly explains why the tiny .026 n20 jet i started with did barley anything. I upped it to the .030 and that helped a bit. I wanted to go to the .036 but started thinking, dang that's advertised 75 hp on there manual and that seems a bit much. Right now im just giving the car what it wants and matching the fueling to keep it happy. The n20 is literally enabled for about 2 seconds off the line then that s366 is moving and the n20 disables...
This is why I posted Donnie's Turbo Buick in your build thread in the other section; a V6 with 1.83" intake valves and yet he is knocking on 7's in the 1/4 mile. His turbo is enormous, yet he has figured out a way to spool it very early to get off of the line. Congrats on the 120-mph pass Mark, that is quite an accomplishment, but there is way more in it than that. GN boys run 15-psi on the street, and 30-psi at the track. Import boys run 30-psi on the street and up to 50-psi at the track. Build the engine to handle the power, and you'll run as fast as you want simply by upping the boost pressure...
You just need to get into some real boost and that thing will fly. If motor can hold it lol that i dont know anything about
Yea i definitly would like to turn that boost up some. I'll be honest I can't think of anyone that has cam close to trapping 120mph on a 3.1 block. That's some big hp on a 3300 race wright v6. Stock crank and rods.. so right now I'm into the area where It may just give up and die on me at any moment. That's one thing that scares me a bit. I think I'm pushing the envelope on these gen 1 60 degree rwd guts right now.
This is why I posted Donnie's Turbo Buick in your build thread in the other section; a V6 with 1.83" intake valves and yet he is knocking on 7's in the 1/4 mile. His turbo is enormous, yet he has figured out a way to spool it very early to get off of the line. Congrats on the 120-mph pass Mark, that is quite an accomplishment, but there is way more in it than that. GN boys run 15-psi on the street, and 30-psi at the track. Import boys run 30-psi on the street and up to 50-psi at the track. Build the engine to handle the power, and you'll run as fast as you want simply by upping the boost pressure...
Thanos rob. It means alot.
Yea I really think upping the boost 4 5 6 psi would make for some fast times. I don't think high 10s are out of the realm of possibilities. I'm starting to come to a wall where the question is do I just keep pushing it till it breaks, do I upgrade the guts or aim at the v8 route. It's a hard crossroad to go over because ultimately it's one of the few v6 thirdgens that makes respectable power. Sometimes I think just go the v8 route but then I think just make my v6 better and go from there. Its my decision in the end but right now im just enjoying a cinatant 11 second car. First and formost. I need a cage and a 5 point harness to be legal to run those 11.49 and unders.
Mark, Donnie was a really great guy to swap idea's with, learned a lot from the man, just never went the nitrous route myself to test his idea's. This is an older video, as he doesn't post much video's these days on the other forums I frequent, but last I checked he was down to a 1.30 sixty foot running a destroked 231 Turbo Buick (224 cubic inches) with a 91mm turbo with those same small valves mentioned above. Although running meth only now for fuel, despite that, without the nitrous assist he wasn't able to spool that behemoth of a turbo until the 600 foot mark, making the benefit unreal. Car is an animal, with better heads he'd be way into the sevens in the 1/4, and that's a very small engine he is/was working with...
08-17-2015, 06:25 AM
contact pete at huges on yellow bullet , or call up huges directly awsome company to deal with 
