Front end re-build. How far to go
Thread Starter
Senior Member
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 506
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From: pnw near portland or.
Car: 91 RS convertible
Engine: 330 hp vortec 350. TBI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moiser 12 bolt/Wilwood disc's
Front end re-build. How far to go
I recently rebuilt my front end. this is what I have done so far.
Tubular "A"arms with new bushings and ball joint.
Lowering spring
steering components
strut
wonder bar
end link bushings
Tubular "K" Member
So now I am wondering if I should replace the Upper strut mounts? and also should I get a Strut mount brace? I am in the process of installing new C5 brakes on the front and a Mosier 12 bolt in the rear with Wilwood brakes.
The car has 166k on it so everything was pretty wore.
Tubular "A"arms with new bushings and ball joint.
Lowering spring
steering components
strut
wonder bar
end link bushings
Tubular "K" Member
So now I am wondering if I should replace the Upper strut mounts? and also should I get a Strut mount brace? I am in the process of installing new C5 brakes on the front and a Mosier 12 bolt in the rear with Wilwood brakes.
The car has 166k on it so everything was pretty wore.
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
Yes, I would go with solid bearing upper strut mounts. My Founders performance strut mounts made a noticeable difference in my steering feel. The steering felt a lot more direct after I installed them.
However, keep in mind my situation when I installed mine; My steering had EVERYTHING rebuilt with moog parts, I had Koni Yellow struts, a new rag joint & steering box rebuild & power steering pump rebuild all installed in one weekend. The strut mounts where an over-sight on my part, so I had to stick with the worn out rubber stock mounts for a few months.
The reason I'm telling you this is because I had next to no weak links in my front suspension besides my stock rubber strut mounts. Prior to installing my solid bearing strut mounts, The steering feel was excellent. After installing the founders SM I was surprised, the steering now feels better then it did before. Before there was a slight delay in the steering, where as now it just goes where you point it.
As a side note:
I'm impressed so far with my third gen Camaro's handling. I have not even lowered the car yet or even installed sub frame connectors, and it already has an excellent feel. I can take corners way quicker than I ever could in my old M3. and I took care of that car too so it's a fair comparison.
Sorry for the long post. In short yes buy some solid bearing strut mounts.
However, keep in mind my situation when I installed mine; My steering had EVERYTHING rebuilt with moog parts, I had Koni Yellow struts, a new rag joint & steering box rebuild & power steering pump rebuild all installed in one weekend. The strut mounts where an over-sight on my part, so I had to stick with the worn out rubber stock mounts for a few months.
The reason I'm telling you this is because I had next to no weak links in my front suspension besides my stock rubber strut mounts. Prior to installing my solid bearing strut mounts, The steering feel was excellent. After installing the founders SM I was surprised, the steering now feels better then it did before. Before there was a slight delay in the steering, where as now it just goes where you point it.
As a side note:
I'm impressed so far with my third gen Camaro's handling. I have not even lowered the car yet or even installed sub frame connectors, and it already has an excellent feel. I can take corners way quicker than I ever could in my old M3. and I took care of that car too so it's a fair comparison.
Sorry for the long post. In short yes buy some solid bearing strut mounts.
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
Oh, one question: how does your steering feel now? Is there any dead spots; as in is there any play in your steering?
No point in installing upgrades if your steering still has play in it. You wouldn't believe the amount of play I had in my steering box. After I rebuilt it the constant steering corrections at speed have basicly been eliminated. It's made the car so mush easier to drive.
No point in installing upgrades if your steering still has play in it. You wouldn't believe the amount of play I had in my steering box. After I rebuilt it the constant steering corrections at speed have basicly been eliminated. It's made the car so mush easier to drive.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 3
From: pnw near portland or.
Car: 91 RS convertible
Engine: 330 hp vortec 350. TBI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moiser 12 bolt/Wilwood disc's
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
Thanks I will check the play out next time I drive it.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 582
Likes: 1
From: Woodstock, IL
Car: 1984 Trans Am Recaro Edition
Engine: 355 L98 Vortec 226/234 custom cam
Transmission: TKO-600
Axle/Gears: On borrowed time...
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
Yes, I would go with solid bearing upper strut mounts. My Founders performance strut mounts made a noticeable difference in my steering feel. The steering felt a lot more direct after I installed them.
However, keep in mind my situation when I installed mine; My steering had EVERYTHING rebuilt with moog parts, I had Koni Yellow struts, a new rag joint & steering box rebuild & power steering pump rebuild all installed in one weekend. The strut mounts where an over-sight on my part, so I had to stick with the worn out rubber stock mounts for a few months.
The reason I'm telling you this is because I had next to no weak links in my front suspension besides my stock rubber strut mounts. Prior to installing my solid bearing strut mounts, The steering feel was excellent. After installing the founders SM I was surprised, the steering now feels better then it did before. Before there was a slight delay in the steering, where as now it just goes where you point it.
As a side note:
I'm impressed so far with my third gen Camaro's handling. I have not even lowered the car yet or even installed sub frame connectors, and it already has an excellent feel. I can take corners way quicker than I ever could in my old M3. and I took care of that car too so it's a fair comparison.
Sorry for the long post. In short yes buy some solid bearing strut mounts.
However, keep in mind my situation when I installed mine; My steering had EVERYTHING rebuilt with moog parts, I had Koni Yellow struts, a new rag joint & steering box rebuild & power steering pump rebuild all installed in one weekend. The strut mounts where an over-sight on my part, so I had to stick with the worn out rubber stock mounts for a few months.
The reason I'm telling you this is because I had next to no weak links in my front suspension besides my stock rubber strut mounts. Prior to installing my solid bearing strut mounts, The steering feel was excellent. After installing the founders SM I was surprised, the steering now feels better then it did before. Before there was a slight delay in the steering, where as now it just goes where you point it.
As a side note:
I'm impressed so far with my third gen Camaro's handling. I have not even lowered the car yet or even installed sub frame connectors, and it already has an excellent feel. I can take corners way quicker than I ever could in my old M3. and I took care of that car too so it's a fair comparison.
Sorry for the long post. In short yes buy some solid bearing strut mounts.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
Do after market strut mounts before the STB.
JamesC
JamesC
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go

Hey Greg, any updates?
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 3
From: pnw near portland or.
Car: 91 RS convertible
Engine: 330 hp vortec 350. TBI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moiser 12 bolt/Wilwood disc's
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
Oh yea lots done here's the list then the question.
1) Tubular K member w/solid motor mounts (PA Raceing)
2) Tubular A armes (UMI I think)
3) Re Built steering linkage (all Mooge)
4) Struts (Monroe Sensa Trac)
5) Lowering springs (?)
6) Strut mounts (?)
7) * Strut mount brace as soon as I find one (I think Eldabroc)
8) Tranny cross member w/drive shaft loop (Spchon)
9) Tranny mount (Energy Suspen)
10) Adj torque arm (Schon)
11) LCA's (don't remember)
12) Lowering springs (?)
13) Adj panhard bar (same as the LCA)
14) shocks (Monroe Sensa Trac)
16) GEN5 front brakes
17) Morosso 12 bolt (373 gears with Wavy posi)
18) WilWood rear disc's
19) Stock 34mm and 21mm sway bars w/poly end bushings
20) 18" 245/40 in the front and 275/40"s in the rear on Boss rims *'s in the front and 9.5's in the back.
Most of the parts were bought used thats why I am flakey on the brand. But the were either new like the rear end and bought from the guy that bought them or very slightly used. Now my questions
Q1 Do I really need LCA drop bracketts? My car is lowered anout 1&1/2"s
Q2 I know the consensic on Koni shocks. Well I didn't till after I did all the work. I want to know if they are really going to make that big of difference. My car rite now is just a street car but you never know what's next as you can tell I am a bit obsesed.
Thanks I will post pics of the finished project next week.
1) Tubular K member w/solid motor mounts (PA Raceing)
2) Tubular A armes (UMI I think)
3) Re Built steering linkage (all Mooge)
4) Struts (Monroe Sensa Trac)
5) Lowering springs (?)
6) Strut mounts (?)
7) * Strut mount brace as soon as I find one (I think Eldabroc)
8) Tranny cross member w/drive shaft loop (Spchon)
9) Tranny mount (Energy Suspen)
10) Adj torque arm (Schon)
11) LCA's (don't remember)
12) Lowering springs (?)
13) Adj panhard bar (same as the LCA)
14) shocks (Monroe Sensa Trac)
16) GEN5 front brakes
17) Morosso 12 bolt (373 gears with Wavy posi)
18) WilWood rear disc's
19) Stock 34mm and 21mm sway bars w/poly end bushings
20) 18" 245/40 in the front and 275/40"s in the rear on Boss rims *'s in the front and 9.5's in the back.
Most of the parts were bought used thats why I am flakey on the brand. But the were either new like the rear end and bought from the guy that bought them or very slightly used. Now my questions
Q1 Do I really need LCA drop bracketts? My car is lowered anout 1&1/2"s
Q2 I know the consensic on Koni shocks. Well I didn't till after I did all the work. I want to know if they are really going to make that big of difference. My car rite now is just a street car but you never know what's next as you can tell I am a bit obsesed.
Thanks I will post pics of the finished project next week.
Last edited by gregl316; Aug 18, 2013 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Photo
Senior Member
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Posts: 720
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
Q1: If you are down 1 1/2" from the height you measured before you put the lowering springs in, then yes. If you think you are down 1 1/2" from factory height it might not be an accurate number, because factory springs sag over time and your old ride height might be the same as what you have now. The only way to tell is to look at your LCA and see if it is flat or at a slight downward angle from the chassis mount. If they are at an upward angle then you need them for sure.
Q2: Konis are going to be a night and day difference from your current setup. Monroe are garbage compared to Koni. Well worth the money.
Q2: Konis are going to be a night and day difference from your current setup. Monroe are garbage compared to Koni. Well worth the money.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 3
From: pnw near portland or.
Car: 91 RS convertible
Engine: 330 hp vortec 350. TBI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moiser 12 bolt/Wilwood disc's
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
Well it's all installed now I just need to brake down and buy the Koni's. It's just the Monroe's are new and I hate spending money twice. I did some research and the cheapest I have found them is from Autoanything but only by 40 or so bucks. I have bought from them before and they are cool. So I guess I will order them now. While it is still on jacks and before the new alignment.
The Yellow ones rite? Is there a left and a rite?
The Yellow ones rite? Is there a left and a rite?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 3
From: pnw near portland or.
Car: 91 RS convertible
Engine: 330 hp vortec 350. TBI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moiser 12 bolt/Wilwood disc's
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
Should have bought yesterday. The prices went up by 40 for the shocks and 20 for the struts every where. Instead of it being 640 it's 840. I keep you posted if I find them cheep.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 3
From: pnw near portland or.
Car: 91 RS convertible
Engine: 330 hp vortec 350. TBI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moiser 12 bolt/Wilwood disc's
Re: Front end re-build. How far to go
So much for labor day sales. Summit has them on sale in there catalog but when you try to check out it goes to their normal price. BMR has them cheep but once you add shipping it is rite up there. So I just hit the buy button at AJUSA for 666.66 shipped to my door. I'll keep you informed on how it goes. Mean while I have a set of Monroe's to where out.
I got 8741-1030s and 30-1265 sports in Yellow I hope that's rite.
I got 8741-1030s and 30-1265 sports in Yellow I hope that's rite.
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