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I am reading all of the threads on lowering and have decided to use lowering springs. I have a stock 83 Ws6 suspension and it rides pretty high. I have KYB shocks and struts and that is about the extent of my mods for suspension. I don't know the proper amount to lower a car, I am assuming around 2". I have Hooker headers and y pipe that sticks low so I don't want to scrape.
My budget is 500-800, I'm wondering which springs to choose and suggestions on other suspension mods that might be beneficial to swap while working on the springs.
Keep it around 1 inch drop or a little more depending on the springs u decide. You will regret any more. I bought two cars with two inch drops and brought them both back up. Makes for some bad driving and alot of spots to avoid
Lowered in Michigan means lots of obstacles to avoid. I need to bring mine back up. Looks nice but ride is important to me too. Mine are Eibach sportlines btw. I might have to check out the Vogtland.
that y-pipe does look pretty low (though could be like that just more apparent without the GFX).
Other things to think about when lowering. Obviously alignment (you'll have more negative camber in the front at least - wheels more like - /\). Next, you'll want to observe the bump stops and how much travel they give. Likely they'll need to be trimmed
Once lowered, get it up to speed and see if you have any new vibrations. This could be the pinion angle (changes as you lower the car) that will then need adjustment.
Next is the angle of the rear control arms. Once lowered, the LCA's may no longer be parallel with the ground (axle nearer to the chassis); this can translate to limited traction at take off and will require LCA relocation brackets
GTA 1990 is on the right track.
When you lower the car you change much more than the average person realizes. The entire suspension is set for a particular ride height. Lowering the vehicle means the rear lower control arms may now be at the wrong angle, the pinion angle may be wrong, the struts and shocks may have limited travel now which can kill them now. Camber is off. You may notice that you hit the bump stops from sitting lower.
Best advice is to bite the bullet, pony up and purchase a set of front weight jacks for our cars and at the same time purchase a set of raised strut mounts. That can get your front by until you decide on what strut to buy. The next purchase would need to be the rear lower control arm relocation brackets and to use the lowest notch. You want the control arm to be lower on the axle side, you do not want them dead horizontal and you really don't want the body side to be lower. After that an adjustable Panhard rod to recenter the rear.
that y-pipe does look pretty low (though could be like that just more apparent without the GFX).
Other things to think about when lowering. Obviously alignment (you'll have more negative camber in the front at least - wheels more like - /\). Next, you'll want to observe the bump stops and how much travel they give. Likely they'll need to be trimmed
Once lowered, get it up to speed and see if you have any new vibrations. This could be the pinion angle (changes as you lower the car) that will then need adjustment.
Next is the angle of the rear control arms. Once lowered, the LCA's may no longer be parallel with the ground (axle nearer to the chassis); this can translate to limited traction at take off and will require LCA relocation brackets
The y pipe is low, I chose this picture because it shows the lowest point pretty well.
Lowered in Michigan means lots of obstacles to avoid. I need to bring mine back up. Looks nice but ride is important to me too. Mine are Eibach sportlines btw. I might have to check out the Vogtland.
What year do you have? Did you need to change anything else after you drove with the new springs on?
As it has been said before, spend the money and do it right, but be careful of how low you go. I love the look of a lowered car, but you do loose on drive-ability. I recently purchased a '87 Iroc that has been lowered. It was only lowered with spings, and I am assuming they are 2". The car was realligned to correct camber. It drives will with no vibrations or issues. However I only drove it on the test drive, and .8km since I got it home.
However, since I have the original springs I am considering putting it back to stock height. I know the Iroc's have a lower ride height then others from the factory, but here are some of the issues I have had to deal with....
1. To bring the car home in a trailer, I had to build a ridiculous ramp system with 2X10's. Even though the trailer had a ramp door and a beaver tail, the front air dam just barely cleared.
2. I can jack the rear diff up with a floor jack, but cannot get under the front K member. I have to drive the vehicle up on wood to get under it.
3. I cannot get the hoist arms under the stock exhaust and again, have to drive it up on wood to get clearance. Just be prepared some shops may not be able to work on your car if they have larger hoists or may refuse to work on it if it is a PITA.
4. The car will not clear any speed bump. The cat is the lowest point on the vehicle. Driveways and approaches will also be a challenge.
5. Even the previous owner said when driving the car he had to be 'thinking all the time".
I have 2.5" clearance to the front air dam and around 3" to the cat. Like I said, love the look, but if I end up being scared to drive it, it will go back to ride height. I included a few pics for your reference. Good luck with it and I hope it turns out exactly as you want.
As it has been said before, spend the money and do it right, but be careful of how low you go. I love the look of a lowered car, but you do loose on drive-ability. I recently purchased a '87 Iroc that has been lowered. It was only lowered with spings, and I am assuming they are 2". The car was realligned to correct camber. It drives will with no vibrations or issues. However I only drove it on the test drive, and .8km since I got it home.
If the car is lowered 2" with only the springs changed and the alignment corrected the car is still wrong. The strut mounts need to be replaced with an aftermarket taller mount that allows the strut more travel and you need to use a strut that works in that range of motion or you risk blowing the strut out at the worst possible moment. In addition, the entire rear geometry would be off. All this is supposing as you said, that the PO only changed the springs.
If the car is lowered 2" with only the springs changed and the alignment corrected the car is still wrong. The strut mounts need to be replaced with an aftermarket taller mount that allows the strut more travel and you need to use a strut that works in that range of motion or you risk blowing the strut out at the worst possible moment. In addition, the entire rear geometry would be off. All this is supposing as you said, that the PO only changed the springs.
I realize that. The only point I was trying to make was to be careful on how much to lower the car. TreDeClaw didnt specify the use for the car, so I dont know if it is only going to shows or used as a daily driver. I agree if you are going to change one thing, you need to consider all the factors and what else is effected.
With TreDeClaw's budget it would suck to decide to go over, spend the money and do everything correctly, then realize the car is not driveable and end up tearing it all back out to go back to stock. TreDeClaw, IF you are dead set on lowering it, then it all has to be done correctly.
With my case, I have no idea what to expect as the vehicle is new to me. It will only get 500 miles put on it a year at most. My plan is to drive it the way that it is and see how much of a PITA it is. If the ride height is okay and clearance isnt an issue, I will put more money into having the car lowered correctly and address all the other issues. Iff its more of a pain to drive, then it goes back to stock ride height and it didnt cost me anything extra to figure it out. Good luck TreDeClaw, let us know which way you go and post some pics.
beautiful car,i wouldn't lower it at all myself,but if you absolutely need to i would consider getting a second set of coils and cutting out MAX 1/2 a coil,then check how it looks
and if the ride is bearable and suits your taste,also consult with any spring companies you can about your ideal rate.you could then find an aftermarket spring to suit your long term needs.
(i have to call delta springs,this reminded me)
one of the biggest complaints of lowering springs are the spring rates are HORRIBLE........and too low.
NOW before getting all excited this method is done by eibach,hotchkis and several other spring companies as well
as many chassis and hot rod shops and if done without adding heat,careful measuring and addressing other suspension
issues is a reasonable alternative.i definitely do not recommend chopping out a whole coil or two,your car will ride like a tank
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; 08-23-2018 at 08:12 PM.
02-11-2017, 03:21 PM
