Monte01

I have a 92 rs project that I'm just starting. I have searched the forum and maybe I missed something. Can anyone give me an idea why the front drivers side tire sits 3/8" further in than the passenger side? The wheels are 18x8.5 with a 10mm offset. I've checked the wheels to see if they were different by accident from the manufacturer. I checked the k member it's square and the alignment holes line up. The only part that hasn't been changed is the rotors and strut mount. I've measured various points including control arm length, distance from the face of the rotor to different points in the wheel well all are the same. Like I said I've used the search function and I'm still having the issue. Anyone else have input? Anything at this point would be helpful.

Monte01

Oh and an alignment has been done. Forgot that part.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

What do the strut mounts look like? Is one more inboard than the other? Are the rubber biscuits in the mounts trashed?

How about the rear mounts for the a arms? If the car is curbed hard l, those mounts can tear off the k member, or bend sometimes.

Monte01

The driver side is almost all the way inboard. I do know one wheel was replaced. I have a pile of receipts for the car from the last 2 owners. The biscuits look OK but they will get replaced with everything else. Nothing looks bent or broken. Is there a such thing as offset control arm bushings for this car?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

If the driver side strut mount is all the way inboard, and that's the side where the wheel is further in, that's part of the reason. Either the alignment is off, the strut could be bent or a few other possibilities. I would start there.

No offset bushing, the issue is related to something else.

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iTrader: (14)

Its also possible the alignment was just a "toe and go" half *** job. The strut mount could have been pushed inboard if that wheel was curbed.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

If it has stock 16" wheels, the front and rear are different offsets. Check the front wheels, they'll be marked Front or Rear. Usually a rear will fit on a front, it'll just grind the tie rod and knock off any wheel weights until there's enough room.

Edit: Missed this part...

oh well...

Monte01

This was from the alignment place. The "new" wheel was bought 9 days before the struts. Please don't think I'm trying to second guess anyone. I appreciate all the help I can get. I'm out of ideas and trying to provide as much info as I can to fix this problem. Not only is this my toy I put my family in here sometimes so I want it safe. That and it is really noticeable/ annoying lol.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Just to be sure, look at the inner frame rail on that side that the K member bolts to along with the K member itself. Examine them for creases, kinks or bends. Unlikely it was hurt that badly but it's easy to rule out.

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iTrader: (14)

If those are your current alignment specs, and one strut mount is all the way in and the other is not, there is a problem. Again, why was a wheel replaced? Probably hit something hard. So the alignment is "correct" but parts have shifted and required more adjustment to get back into spec. You need to visually check the front end, measure everything, including the lengths of the tie rod assemblies and try to find what's bent or out if alignment.

Monte01

So I measured the front fender to ground and got drivers side at 26 7/8 and passenger side at 26 and 3/8. I know the front springs have been changed for moog ones. Is it possible that they are not properly indexed and it's throwing everything off?

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iTrader: (14)

Probably not, its not unusual for the car to be slightly different heights on each corner.

Another thought. How are the body gaps between the fenders and hood?

Monte01

I thought about the fender. There is a little more of a gap on the drivers side but not much. So far all the suspension measurements are close. I'm going to upgrade some of the parts so maybe the problem will go away lol.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Check the center link and steering assembly and then make a cheap tram gauge to measure the front end.

Monte01

I tightened the body gap between the hood and the drivers fender.
The center link is good I changed that right before it was aligned.
The frame rails look good, I didn't see creases or wrinkles.
I took a square from the front fender to the ground and measured from the wheel. I have a 1/4" difference at top and 1/8" difference at the bottom between the driver and passenger.

It will have to stay like this until winter when I can rebuild the front end. I just got the car on the road for a few shake down runs. I will post if I find anything during the rebuild. I appreciate the help and the advice you guys gave.