OEM-style a-arms with ball joints
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
Car: '86 IROC-Z
Engine: LG4 305-4BBL
Transmission: T5
OEM-style a-arms with ball joints
Hi,
Before I ask yes I did use search, and found plenty of threads on tubular a-arms. I am asking about complete factory-style front a-arms with new bushings and ball joints.
My IROC is for street only with the wife and kids, most a hundred miles or so a year. Maybe more once I am through with the suspension rebuild (completed front and rear sway bars and steering components). With the wheels apart and tie rods not connected makes sense to replace the a-arm bushings and ball joints.
My first choice is to refurbish the existing a-arms (clean off surface rust/paint, rubber bushings, ball joints). But there is the pain in the *** factor of the bushings. I see ads for a-arms that have all of it done but none seem to fit my 86 IROC.
Yes I can go with a tubular a-arms but for my application it doesn't seem to make sense to spend $500 when I have a perfectly good set of a-arms and am NOT racing nor dropping in a new motor (my little LG4 starts, stops, and sometimes accelerates).
So that said do any of you fine gentlemen and ladies know of any complete OEM / stock a-arm and ball joints combinations that are not cheap-*** pieces of crap? If not I'll just buy some bolts and washers to remove and install the new bushings :-)
Thanks!
PS thanks for the wonderful information that has helped me out on the work to date. The steering and suspension work has been my most involved work on a car. All in my driveway with basic hand tools. And a lot of "salty" language but so worth it.
Before I ask yes I did use search, and found plenty of threads on tubular a-arms. I am asking about complete factory-style front a-arms with new bushings and ball joints.
My IROC is for street only with the wife and kids, most a hundred miles or so a year. Maybe more once I am through with the suspension rebuild (completed front and rear sway bars and steering components). With the wheels apart and tie rods not connected makes sense to replace the a-arm bushings and ball joints.
My first choice is to refurbish the existing a-arms (clean off surface rust/paint, rubber bushings, ball joints). But there is the pain in the *** factor of the bushings. I see ads for a-arms that have all of it done but none seem to fit my 86 IROC.
Yes I can go with a tubular a-arms but for my application it doesn't seem to make sense to spend $500 when I have a perfectly good set of a-arms and am NOT racing nor dropping in a new motor (my little LG4 starts, stops, and sometimes accelerates).
So that said do any of you fine gentlemen and ladies know of any complete OEM / stock a-arm and ball joints combinations that are not cheap-*** pieces of crap? If not I'll just buy some bolts and washers to remove and install the new bushings :-)
Thanks!
PS thanks for the wonderful information that has helped me out on the work to date. The steering and suspension work has been my most involved work on a car. All in my driveway with basic hand tools. And a lot of "salty" language but so worth it.
Supreme Member


Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 11
From: Modesto, California
Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: OEM-style a-arms with ball joints
Unfortunately no. Also not sure what size rims you have but the steering stops are different for 245/50/16 rims so keep that in mind. I ended up pulling mine off the car, having a shop push/press the bushings and ball joints out and new ones in for $60.
Then I did a hand sand with 120 grit and spray paint and it came out really nice honestly, way better than I thought!
Came out great!!
Then I did a hand sand with 120 grit and spray paint and it came out really nice honestly, way better than I thought!
Came out great!!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
Car: '86 IROC-Z
Engine: LG4 305-4BBL
Transmission: T5
Re: OEM-style a-arms with ball joints
Thanks. I have the stock IROC wheels. I have a feeling I'll do the same as you, expect being too stubborn to have a shop press in my bushings. Ok the local shop quoted me about $75 so might have them do it.
Supreme Member


Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 11
From: Modesto, California
Car: 88 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO5 5.7 TBI/Ebl Flash
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 stock rear end
Re: OEM-style a-arms with ball joints
Take a look a few threads down at W.E.G thread on pushing them out yourself.... Personally I think that $75 will be well spent. Especially if you don't have all the items on hand to try it yourself.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 89
From: Temecula, CA
Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 3.27 Posi
Re: OEM-style a-arms with ball joints
I'm really disappointed that we still don't have factory a arm replacements.
I am not happy with how the shop pressed in my ball joints. There is no undoing that mistake, so new a arms is the answer. Unfortunately I can gamble on a junk yard pair, or pay a ton for tubular style aftermarket replacements.
I am not happy with how the shop pressed in my ball joints. There is no undoing that mistake, so new a arms is the answer. Unfortunately I can gamble on a junk yard pair, or pay a ton for tubular style aftermarket replacements.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
Car: '86 IROC-Z
Engine: LG4 305-4BBL
Transmission: T5
Re: OEM-style a-arms with ball joints
Oy. Didn't think about a shop crushing the arm. Maybe I make my own protective sleeves and try renting the press kit. Well first I have to get the a-arm out. Waiting for the spring compressor to arrive. When I dropped the a-arm the inside of the spring was stuck to it. Soaking it in penetrating lube in case they are rusted together.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 514
Likes: 346
From: Lake Stevens, WA
Car: 84 Z28, 92 C4 suspension F&R, ABS
Engine: 408 LS2, CNC LS3 heads, Comp Cam
Transmission: Magnum F, RTX clutch, Tick shifter
Axle/Gears: DANA 44 IRS, Tru Trac, 3:73 gears
Re: OEM-style a-arms with ball joints
If you are interested, I have a set from my '84 that have been powder coated black, Global West Del-a-Run bushings, and Moog ball joints installed. I addressed the steering stop issue with a fabricated adjustable stop. PM me on this site and I'll send you pictures. I'm willing to sell them to you cheap just to get them out of my shop.



