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Best factory-style rear suspension setup for drag racing?

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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 11:10 PM
  #1  
Chris Jansen's Avatar
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From: Jackson, Mo.
Best factory-style rear suspension setup for drag racing?

Hey guys, I'm wanting to know from some of you guys that may have tried different setups. I'm new to these cars, as I have been racing an older Chevy pickup for about 12 years now. I recently bought a 91' Camaro with the intent of building a street-legal drag car out of it. The class that I plan to run mandates the use of bolt-on suspension mods only. I will be running an aluminum-headed 377 that makes right at 600 along with an NX plate system that's capable of another 300 hp. It will have my TH 350 and a bolt-in style 9" rear end in it. I'm working on a fairly tight budget, so it would be nice to be able to get some good parts the first time around. I should have mentioned also that I plan on running some M/T ET streets( 30x12.5 ) on the car, along with a 10-point moly cage and subframe connectors.
Also, does anyone have any pics of the trunk area of these cars that have had a safety-type firewall made for them? I'm trying to get some ideas of how to build one.
If anyone has any experiences with the suspension setups on these cars, please let me know. Thanks!
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 11:13 PM
  #2  
Chris Jansen's Avatar
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From: Jackson, Mo.
Almost forgot!

I should have stated this in the above post. I'm looking for a suspension setup that will allow the car to 60' around mid-to-high 1.20's. I believe this is what will be needed to be competitive. Thanks!
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Old Jan 4, 2002 | 08:15 AM
  #3  
ATOMonkey's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis IN
Depending on the rules here is what these cars like. The rear of the Lower Control Arm needs to be dropped 1-1/2 to 2 inches(they sell kits for this) to raise the instant center. Also the stock LCA flex a lot so they either need a plate welded to the bottom of them or replaced with after market. The torque arm that runs to the front of the trans needs to be replaced/strengthened and relocated to a mounting point of the body instead of the trans(kits for this too). Use this mounting point to give the pinion an initial angle of about 5-7 degrees down so when the arm flexes it goes back to straight. You'll have to experiment with that. If you're running slicks then hard springs in the back will help out too. Also a new track rod will help keeping the rear centered but that probably won't effect your 60' times very much. Just think of it as a four link with the top two links in the center.
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