drag racing?
09-05-2018, 06:48 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
drag racing?
I have a 88 gta
383 sbc and a soild 9 bolt
now I want to make the launch at the track
like slicks and try to get front up
and do I have to take all my gta swar bars off front and back
is there any thing else I need to know
ty
383 sbc and a soild 9 bolt
now I want to make the launch at the track
like slicks and try to get front up
and do I have to take all my gta swar bars off front and back
is there any thing else I need to know
ty
09-11-2018, 05:21 PM
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Elwood, IL
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Car: 1986 Firebird TA
Engine: SBC 350
Transmission: TH350 Stage2
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt rebuilt w/3.70
Re: drag racing?
don't need to remove sway bars. 9 bolts are stronger than 10 bolts but they have limits. Make sure your 9 bolt is adjusted and shimmed right before you beat it most would need new cones if you have a bunch of miles on them. Try some DOT street slicks. You might need a driveshaft loop depending on how fast you go now.
09-11-2018, 08:57 PM
#3
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: drag racing?
I pushed a 3.27 geared 9 bolt into the high 11's with a 383. Car wasn't street legal. Gears were wrong. Needed something like 3.73. With the 3.27 gears, I was going through the traps just as I was starting to make power in high gear.
Don't invest a lot of money trying to beef up the 9 bolt or even a 10 bolt. It's not worth the money. No matter what you do, you'll still have those tiny ring and pinion teeth.
Although it's an expensive option, a bolt in 9" or 12 bolt is a better choice.
Don't invest a lot of money trying to beef up the 9 bolt or even a 10 bolt. It's not worth the money. No matter what you do, you'll still have those tiny ring and pinion teeth.
Although it's an expensive option, a bolt in 9" or 12 bolt is a better choice.
09-12-2018, 10:49 AM
#4
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Car: 1986 Firebird TA
Engine: SBC 350
Transmission: TH350 Stage2
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt rebuilt w/3.70
Re: drag racing?
I did all u can do with 9 bolt. Rebuilt the unit w/ new cones. Welded the tubes. 3.70 gears, support cover. I bought the diff w/gears used with low miles. So for like $700 it was much cheaper than getting a 9” or 12 bolt. Since you would have to figure in the $2500-$2600 for a complete drop in axle and all new rear brakes so you are really talking $3000 to switch.
the 9 bolts can handle 500-600 wheel HP. The axles usually break before the diff if u keep on adjusting it to keep it tight.
I when u start creaping to the 10’s in 1/4 mile time the switch.
the 9 bolts can handle 500-600 wheel HP. The axles usually break before the diff if u keep on adjusting it to keep it tight.
I when u start creaping to the 10’s in 1/4 mile time the switch.
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