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All suspension items will swap between 3rd and 4th gens in the rear. LCA, Panhard, Springs, Shocks, Sway bars, endlinks....etc.
About the only things that fit, but aren't exactly a direct fit is the Axle itself, and the parking brake cables, but those are fairly easy to take care of.
the 4th gen style Koni yellows are "ON CAR adjustable" and the 3rd gen specific ones need to be unbolted to be adjusted. that was the selling point for me. I need to adjust them if I am street cruising, drag racing, or autocrossing, so on car adjustment was key.
one version is mono tube, one is twin tube if i remember correctly. I forget now though so don't quote me on that
Interesting. Third gen's are better in performance than fourth gen's?
In some regards, yes, the monotube design is better. But that's like saying a Ferrari is slightly better than a Lamborghini; it depends on the crowd, use, and both are miles better than a Mustang.
4th gen and 3rd gen Koni Yellow rears both work.
4th gen being on car adjustable
3rd gen are off car adjustable
4th gen=twin tube
3rd gen =monotube
the mono tube is the superior design, there is no arguing about it.
the monotube handles heat and Air ration better. They also have a MUCH larger Piston and valves that provide better dampening force.
As far as on car adjustment, if you are messing around with rebound settings mid race, you have completely failed and probably won't be winning any class you are racing in.
Set them to 60-70% critical dampening and leave them.
If you are oversteering, and decide to stiffen the front and soften the rear, you are LOWERING your car's maximum grip potential! You are lowering grip in the front and raising it in the rear.
the better move would be raising the rear grip with say different sway bar, roll center or spring rates.
Or better yet, rear downforce.
Pic is a shock Dyno of a 3rd gen Koni Yellow on full soft and full hard.
My math says the 1st click past full soft is correct for my Autocross 92 with 400lb rear springs
Autocross is typically in the 3in a sec range (0.07m/s)
4th gen and 3rd gen Koni Yellow rears both work.
4th gen being on car adjustable
3rd gen are off car adjustable
4th gen=twin tube
3rd gen =monotube
the mono tube is the superior design, there is no arguing about it.
the monotube handles heat and Air ration better. They also have a MUCH larger Piston and valves that provide better dampening force.
As far as on car adjustment, if you are messing around with rebound settings mid race, you have completely failed and probably won't be winning any class you are racing in.
Set them to 60-70% critical dampening and leave them.
If you are oversteering, and decide to stiffen the front and soften the rear, you are LOWERING your car's maximum grip potential! You are lowering grip in the front and raising it in the rear.
the better move would be raising the rear grip with say different sway bar, roll center or spring rates.
Or better yet, rear downforce.
Pic is a shock Dyno of a 3rd gen Koni Yellow on full soft and full hard.
My math says the 1st click past full soft is correct for my Autocross 92 with 400lb rear springs
Autocross is typically in the 3in a sec range (0.07m/s)
Thank you for your informaiton.
In fact, I mainly drive on street or highways and I just want to adjust damping to my farorite in those situations, enjoying change in feeling at the same time.
In this case, do you think third gen's rear is good enough, by setting it to the softest? Or even on street or highways on-car adjustment is worthy to have?
If you have a street car, use Full soft with the 3rd gen Koni shocks.
koni already have a TON of rebound force compared to stock.
I have 400lb rear springs and and setting 1 is the fastest from my Autocross testing. (Koni 3rd gen shocks have click 0,1,2,3)
soft is often faster handling wise and won't hurt ride quality
If you have a street car, use Full soft with the 3rd gen Koni shocks.
koni already have a TON of rebound force compared to stock.
I have 400lb rear springs and and setting 1 is the fastest from my Autocross testing. (Koni 3rd gen shocks have click 0,1,2,3)
soft is often faster handling wise and won't hurt ride quality
Thank you.
For street use, maybe no need to set the rear to 1? Setting 0 is enough?
Only reason for a street car to go beyond click 1 or 0 would be if you had 200lb+ springs or a super heavy axle.
like a 9in, 8.8, or 12 bolt.
Many Folk seem to think: Stiff =better handling
when the reality is a koni has more than enough dampening forces even on full soft.
If you look at Dyno plots of say a KYB shock, the koni has 30%+ more rebound even on full soft
Only reason for a street car to go beyond click 1 or 0 would be if you had 200lb+ springs or a super heavy axle.
like a 9in, 8.8, or 12 bolt.
Many Folk seem to think: Stiff =better handling
when the reality is a koni has more than enough dampening forces even on full soft.
If you look at Dyno plots of say a KYB shock, the koni has 30%+ more rebound even on full soft
It seems a koni has more dampening than I thought. I definitely need ride quality so setting 0 or 1 at most seems enough.
What about front? Likewise 0 or 1 is enough for street?
Koni yellow front struts for our cars are a twin tube design with a dial at the top of the shaft.
it has 2 1/2 turns total for rebound
First 2 turns is calibrated
Last 1/2 turn is the wild west, that last 1/2 turn could triple rebound, that would be bad, very bad.
the koni strut most accurate between 1/2 and 1 turn
Because again, Koni yellows have a TON of dampening force already, I'd try 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn.
If you have front springs that are 850lbs rate or higher, 1 turn would work.
I run 1 1/4 turns with koni double adj RACE struts and 1,200lb springs.
koni yellows on softer settings are pretty smooth overall.
Especially when paired with solid strut mounts.
