I emailed a company about getting a roadrace tubular Kmemeber for my 89. Had a couple requests. I wanted the spring perches welded in instead of bolted and i wanted bare steel so i could coat it in semigloss black. Not a fan of gloss red/black .
The tech department told me I'd have to grind the coating and weld it myself but needed to speak with sales. Sales told me they can only sell them coated, bolt in spring perches and any other welding could compromise quality/strength. They apparently have production set up in a way that it can't be welded and pulled off b4 it goes to powder.

So my question is, is there anyone that may make something compareable and will sell bare steel with all the parts welded?

 

The only two I know of that are considered strong enough for road race are UMI and Heidts. Neither has welded upper perches because they're trying to cater to both the OEM style spring and coilover crowd, which is funny because nobody in their right mind would use coilovers. Heidts has modified A-arm locations with 3 degrees anti-dive built in. I think Heidts will ship unpainted if you want.

Unless you're trying to open up space, I would just use the stock k-member. I think all this tubular stuff is a downgrade in strength. Also, it removes weight from low in the car which raises center of gravity and that's not good for road race. Drag racers and road racers do the opposite things.

 

Any particular reason you want the spring perches to be welded? The way they nest into the car, they aren't going anywhere. You could always scotchbrite and spray a satin clear over the unit. I doubt you'd get someone to veer from their process without offering you a warranty.

 

Ive had a flimsy drag race K in it for a loooooong time and have never really been happy with it, however, i really do like the extra space for more "activities".
wanting to stiffen the front a bit more and maybe bang some corners. (Getting soft in my old age). Lol

 

I know they aren't going anywhere with how its setup but in my mind, id like to think welding it would be a stronger solution than just bolts. Even bolting and welding would be good.

 

Whats the easiest way to remove powdercoating? Ive looked it up in the past just need do some digging on the subject.

 

Drive it in winter and wait a year. LOL!

 

You could maybe add plates and bars to the tubular k-member you have now and add back the corner triangles. That's all UMI really did between standard vs. road race. You already know everything fits in the car. Switching k-members can be a pain in the rear when it moves engine & trans.

I've talked to a shop here in Peoria about beefing up my BMR K-member because it would be easier than trying to re-fit my drivetrain to a stock k-member. Although I've suspected my BMR suspension geometry is all messed up, but I've never measured it. Things just fit weird in my car when it comes to front suspension.

Text me if you want me to drop you a few names of some shops up here. I think there is a legit chassis builder in a small town south of Pekin too, I just can't remember their name off top of my head.

 

Sorry for the multi-posts, but the other thing I'll warn you about (which you likely know already) is sometimes stock A-arms don't fit aftermarket k-members so you have to buy tubular A-arms and that's an extra big chunk of change. Being forced to spend that much money for something so pointless is maddening.

And most the aftermarket A-arms use poly bushings which is a step backwards, and you can't fit something like the Global West bushings in solid tube (such as my BMR A-arms). Detroit Speed does make A-arms for stock fitment that have bushings with freedom of movement but it requires more frequent cleaning and greasing.

Point is pay attention to whether the K-member can accept a stock A-arm.

 

Also, be prepared for a harsher ride. Granted, some of this is spring selection, but my car with the RR K-Member and A-Arms rides like a cinder block. You never appreciate how much energy your suspension absorbs until you drive a highly stiffened thirdgen.

 

Has Chuck forgiven you yet for the Power Tour? Funny thing is his car will be just as bad.

What spring rates you running, Shifty? Seems like all these weight jack sellers are trying to put people in 1000+ lb/in springs and I had to just say 'no' and custom order softer springs that they didn't normally keep in inventory.

 

Thats a couple problems with what i have now. I was told the Kmemeber would work with stock control arms and steering linkage.
had to "clearance" main tube so linkage could .move back and forth. Also had to redo the control arm mounting lugs because they weren't the same left to right and stock control arms didn't fit. Thats important for me to use stock control arms with my global west busings.

 

When i got my heidts kmember back in 2016 it was not painted.

 

I'll have to go check, but I want to say 700lb maybe.