I have a 89 formula with a 305. its got edelbrock TES headers, a gutted cat, flowmaster. holley intake, holley 670cfm tbi, and a cam. I am having a hard time gettin this to the ground does anyone suggest a traction bar. I have seen lakewood traction bars for my car in jegs for $200. they replace your control arms. I was wondering if anyone has used these or knows any thing about them or a better route to go with getting traction. thanks

 

You could try LCA relocation brackets, they make a big diffrence, and don't cost very much. spohn sells them, his banner is at the top of the page.

also a torque arm will help alot in the traction department. but those cost a little more (about 300 bucks)

 

Have u ever seen the Lakewood traction bars? are they any good? i hear that hotchkis makes a lca and panhard rod that make a huge diff.

 

I have seen them, i really don't have any experiance with them.

but the brakets to relocate your LCA's will make a HUGE diffrence in traction, and they are only $65, plus the cost of getting them welded in.

they work by relocating the axle side mount of the LCA to give you a better angle on th LCA to creat more traction.

you can read more about them here

http://www.spohn.net/index.cfm?fusea...t&productid=11

 

Go with a set of relocation brackets and LCA from Spohn,please save your money and do not buy the Lakewood traction bars for our cars.I did and took them off about a day later and gave them to a friend(worst money ever spent on my car) and went with the above mentioned stuff including a Random Technology torque arm,and have never regretted it.The Lakewood bars really suck,plus they ruin the handling aspect of third gens.

 

The third gen rear suspension is already well designed but still needs a few improvements. There are no rear traction bars available for the third gen's coil suspension however Traction Action lift bars come very close. There are other things you can do that will increase traction and still keep the car streetable.

LCA relocation brackets are the best investment. After that, invest in better lower control arms and a good torque arm like a Spohn. It won't flex like a stock unit and allows pinion angle adjustment. The last suspension change you can make in air bags inside the springs. This will allow you to preload the right side so that it doesn't lift as much. When properly set up, an open diff car can hook up like a posi.

The last thing you need to get the power to the ground is a set of slicks. I don't recommend any of the DOT type slicks since these are specificly made for drag racing on a DOT tire class. They're not designed to last on the street. Buy an extra set of rims and have the slicks mounted on them. Change them at the track.