I have an 89' Iroc-Z with an L98 and hardtop. The front end makes a popping and grinding noise when I go over bumps and turn the wheel. So I replaced the idler arm and center link and it didnt help, put new end links on and it didnt help.... So one day I pull the tire off and grab the strut at the top and I could wiggle it back and forth like an 1/8 of an inch......So I think I found the problem but do I only need to replace the struts or both the struts and strut mounts on the towers? If I grab it on the botom where it is bolted I cant wiggle it much at all so I think the ball joints are good. The car has 60K miles on it and it is well kept. Apparently the previous owner had the struts replaced because there are Monroe Sensatrac struts and shocks on it now.. Are these good? I am looking for a stock ride quality so should I go for another set of Monroes or Gabriels?? How are the Gabriels...do they compare to monroes in quality and performance? I cant afford paying over $150 a strut......whats a good strut that will give stock ride quality and last a while????

 

There is a bearing at the top of the strut tower. You'll have to replace that first then the struts if needed. If you want the best of both worlds as shocks and struts go then get Konis. The're adjustable and rebuildable. So you can have a soft ride or a stiff ride, whatever you want when you want it. Or you could just get a cheaper shock and be done with it.

 

Is that bearing part of the strut mount? So if I just buy new mounts will the bearing that your talking about be replaced too? Is it normal for theses to go bad? How much do new mounts or bearings cost?

 

Anyone else??? Monroe makes something called a bearing plate and Moog, KYB, and Gabriel make someting called a strut mount. Monroe also makes Strut-Mate® Mounting Kits...what are these???

 

anybody?....Monroe makes something called a bearing plate and Moog, KYB, and Gabriel make someting called a strut mount. Monroe also makes Strut-Mate® Mounting Kits...what are these???

 

I'm using caster/camber adjusters from Ground Control Racing on mine.These replace the upper strut mount (bearing molded into rubber) with an aluminum plate that holds a spherical bearing about an inch and a half higher than stock.This adds travel on lowered cars and mounts the strut much more ridgidly than the factory rubber.
This may be overkill if your vehicle doesn't have lowering springs and you don't need the extra adjustability.
http://www.ground-control.com/
Look under catalogs/ Camaro/Firebird
-Rich-

 

There is another post with the same kind of deal from Hunter motorsports. His are 280$
Which one is better/worse?

 

these are all the same things (with the exception of the monroes) i went with the moog strut mount cause they were the least expensive, and they are good OEM quality parts. as for the monroe...i'd be willing to bet that the strut-mate is the whole setup, bearing and bracket. the bearing plate is probably just the bearing itself, but i'm not sure wheather or not the bearings are removable from our mounts...(just cant remember) so the bearing mate may or may not apply to our F-bodies. as far as replacement struts...monroes are good OEM quality, equal to or better than gabriels but probably a few extra bucks. i sell gabriels at work, see very few defects come in and very few complaints, but monroe is just a more known name. if you want aftermarket, KYB's are nice. give a slightly stiffer ride, but if you replace the springs too your car will handle EXCELLENT, but you WILL have a stiffer ride....all bumps will be felt. speaking of springs....you might as well do them now, along w/ ball joints, LCA bushings, struts/mounts, cause it's a BITCH dealing w/ the removal/installation of the springs. you only want to have to do it (or pay someone to do it) once, so just get it all done IMO

 

Just a suggestion, but the noise you hear is much the same as the one I currently experience, and I KNOW what mine is for sure. I put in new KYB GR-2 Struts, now, after installing them and taking the car down the road, I heard that poping grinding noise your refering to. What it turned out to be, is that the stock Strut-to-steering-assembly bolts (The bottom to be presice) was worn out in one area, allowing the strut to move a little bit even after it was tourqed down tight. I have to get a new bolt to resolve the problem, and haven't gotten time to do it yet. But, thats just the problem I expereienced with my Strut installation. Could be more complicated. Just thought I'd share that with ya though!

Adam

 

just curious, but how do you know thats your problem???

 

Because, all the thread area was gone right where the strut makes contact with the Bolt and the steering assembly. And thats always where it seems to be loose at. When I move the wheel, its the lower bolt thats loose. I have checked it numerous times, and even had someone with an impact wrench (The air gun thing?) tighten it down. No sounds for like 5 mins, then it got increaseingly loose and noisy. Plus theres nothing wrong with the other side, OR the strut towers on either side.

Adam