maksik7

Well since I messed up my brake pads and probably warped the rotors in the process I am looking into aftermarket pads and rotors for my front discs on my 86 TA.

I need them to fit the stock spindle and caliper. Also I don't want to spend more then 250$ on this.

Does anybody have any ideas. I would like cross drilled rotors and semi-metallic pads (I uderstand that works good) and any suggestions are welcome. Also info on where I can buy them would be great.

Thanks for the help,
-Max

PF Flyer

what are the problem symptoms?

noise, scarring of rotor, pulsating pedal?

ps - crossdrilled rotors aren't going to add any performance, just a look.

maksik7

Well I am not sure but my brake rotors are getting extremely hot after every use (burn my finger if I touch them) so I am assuming the excess heat is causing them to warp. If that's not true then maybe I don't need to replace brakes after all...

Anyways I was going to get cross-drilled because I thought they dissipate heat quicker but if that's not true, I guess there is no reason to spend extra money.

If anybody has any other ideas please tell me

Thanks,
-Max

slowV8berlinetta

you rotors should be hot. heat is a product of friction, and that's what your brakes use to stop your car. The tell tale signs of rotor warpage are a pusating pedal and uneven pad wear. I don't know what exactly you mean when you say that they are hot, but they should get hot. Do you know anyone with an infrared heat gun? i've used one to diagnose brake pulls from one side to the other, but it could be used to measure temp at one ond of the rotor compared to the other.

Kenwood

iTrader: (1)

9 times out of 10 when your rotors are warped its because some assape used an impact wrench to put your wheel back on... I had a tire store use an impact wrench with those funny breakaway torque drivers...Still warped the rotor... I always insist that they torque them by hand....After they paid for New rotors for the car...

Kenwood
-=ICON Motorsports=-

PF Flyer

Cross-drilled rotors were made out of necessity.

Early brake pads and some race only type pads were constructed with a type of 'bonding' agent that created a gas when heated. It would actually hold the pad off of the rotor when the brake pedal was applied. It was sort of like the fuzbal table, with the disc floating over it. So they drilled holes in the rotor to relieve the 'gas'. The rotors worked for a while but developed another deficiency. Heat Cracks. They travelled from hole to hole and soon rendered the rotor useless due to bigger cracks forming. It was a race only type situation, as pads and rotors are an expendale item, like tires and gasoline.

As was stated before, heat is normal for a rotor since the pad is in constant contact with the rotor.

A warped rotor will show up as a pulsating pedal when the brakes are moderately applied. As Kenwood stated, proper torque on the lugs will help to prevent warp.